What a shallow well pump installation involves

Installing a shallow well pump means connecting a pump to a well that draws water from fewer than 25 feet below ground level. The job involves assembling the pump, running a suction line down into the well, connecting discharge piping to your house, priming the pump with water, and testing for leaks. Most shallow well pumps are jet pumps or centrifugal pumps, and they sit either in a basement, garage, or pump house rather than down in the well itself.

This is a project you can do yourself if you are comfortable with basic plumbing connections and have the right tools. However, the work requires precision—a leak in the suction line will break the pump's ability to draw water, and an air leak will cause the pump to lose prime and stop working. If you are uncertain about any step, or if your well is unusually deep or has a complicated setup, calling a well contractor is the safer choice.

Key Takeaways

  • A shallow well pump sits above ground and pulls water up through a suction line, so the pump location and suction line quality determine whether it will work reliably.
  • You will need a check valve and foot valve on the suction line to prevent water from draining back into the well when the pump stops.
  • Priming the pump—filling it with water before first start—is essential and must happen before you turn the pump on for the first time.
  • All connections on the suction line must be airtight; even a small leak will prevent the pump from drawing water.
  • If the pump cannot draw water after priming, the problem is almost always an air leak in the suction line or a clogged foot valve.

Choosing the right pump location

The pump must sit as close to the well as possible—ideally within 10 feet—because the farther away it is, the harder it has to work to pull water up. The location should be dry, protected from freezing if you live in a cold climate, and accessible for maintenance. A basement, garage, or dedicated pump house all work well. Avoid placing the pump outdoors where it will be exposed to rain, snow, or direct sun, which will shorten its lifespan.

The pump also needs to sit lower than the water level in the well. If the well water sits 15 feet below ground and your pump is in a basement 8 feet below ground, the pump is pulling water upward only 7 feet—well within its capacity. If your pump sits above the water level, it cannot draw water at all. Measure the depth to your well water before you choose the pump location, and verify that the pump will sit below that level.

Assembling the pump and suction line

Start by reading the pump manufacturer's instructions, because jet pumps and centrifugal pumps have different assembly steps. Most shallow well pumps come with a pressure tank, check valve, and some fittings already attached, but you will need to add the suction line and discharge piping.

The suction line is the pipe that runs from the well down to the pump's suction port. Use rigid PVC pipe or galvanized steel pipe—never flexible hose, which will collapse under the vacuum the pump creates. At the bottom of the suction line, attach a foot valve, which is a one-way valve that lets water in but prevents it from draining back into the well when the pump stops. Above the foot valve, install a check valve on the suction line where it enters the pump. This second valve prevents water from flowing backward through the pump itself.

All connections must be hand-tight plus one-quarter turn with a wrench. Over-tightening can crack fittings and create leaks. Use thread seal tape (also called plumber's tape) on all threaded connections to prevent air leaks. Wrap the tape clockwise around the male threads three to four times before screwing the fitting together.

Running the suction line into the well

Lower the suction line slowly into the well, keeping it as straight as possible. If the well has a sanitary seal at the top, you will need to drill a hole through it for the pipe to pass through, or remove and reinstall the seal around the pipe. The foot valve at the bottom must sit at least 2 feet below the lowest water level you expect during dry months—if it sits above the water, the pump will lose prime and stop working.

Once the suction line is in place, find it to the well casing or to a support structure so it cannot move or shift. Movement can crack fittings and create air leaks. If the well is in a basement or crawlspace, you can strap the pipe to a wall or beam with pipe clamps spaced every 4 to 6 feet.

Connecting discharge piping and the pressure tank

The discharge line carries water from the pump to your house. Connect it to the pump's discharge port using rigid PVC or galvanized steel pipe. The discharge line should slope gently upward toward the house—a slope of at least one-quarter inch per 10 feet prevents water from pooling in low spots and creating air pockets.

Most shallow well pumps include a pressure tank, which stores water under pressure so the pump does not have to run every time you turn on a faucet. The tank is usually connected between the pump's discharge port and the discharge line. Check the tank's air pressure before you start the pump—it should be about 2 pounds per square inch (psi) less than the pump's cut-in pressure. Your pump's manual will specify the correct pressure. Use a tire gauge to check it, and add air with a bicycle pump if needed.

Connect the discharge line to your house's main water line using a tee fitting and a shutoff valve. The shutoff valve lets you isolate the pump for maintenance without draining the whole system. Install a pressure gauge on the discharge line so you can monitor the pump's performance.

Priming the pump before first start

Before you turn on the pump for the first time, you must prime it—fill it completely with water so there is no air inside. An air-filled pump cannot draw water and will not work. Most pumps have a priming plug or priming port on top. Remove this plug and pour water into the opening until water overflows, then replace the plug. Some pumps have a priming valve instead; open it, pour water in, and close it once water flows out.

Priming is the single most important step. If you skip it or do it incompletely, the pump will run but produce no water. If that happens, turn off the pump when ready, prime it again, and restart. Repeated dry running will damage the pump's internal seals.

Testing the pump and checking for leaks

Turn on the pump and listen for water flowing through the discharge line. The pump should produce water within 30 seconds of starting. If it does not, turn it off, check that the priming port is sealed, and verify that the foot valve is submerged in the well. Prime the pump again and restart.

Once water is flowing, check all connections for leaks. Look at the suction line where it enters the pump, the check valve, the pressure tank connections, and the discharge line. Tighten any fitting that is dripping, but do not over-tighten. If a connection continues to leak after tightening, turn off the pump, drain that section of pipe, disconnect the fitting, wrap the threads with fresh thread seal tape, and reconnect.

Let the pump run for 10 to 15 minutes and watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise to the pump's cut-in pressure (usually 20 to 30 psi, depending on the model), then the pump should shut off. When you turn on a faucet, the pressure should drop, the pump should restart, and the pressure should rise again. This cycle means the system is working correctly.

Troubleshooting if the pump will not draw water

If the pump runs but produces no water, the problem is almost always an air leak in the suction line or a clogged foot valve. Start by re-priming the pump—this solves the problem about half the time. If priming does not work, turn off the pump and inspect the entire suction line for cracks, loose fittings, or gaps where the pipe enters the pump. Tighten any loose connection and re-prime.

If the pump still will not draw water, the foot valve may be clogged with sediment or debris. This requires pulling the suction line out of the well, removing the foot valve, cleaning or replacing it, and reinstalling the line. This is a job for a well contractor if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. Do not run the pump continuously while troubleshooting—dry running damages the pump's seals and can cause permanent failure.

Frequently Asked Questions

How deep can a shallow well pump pull water from?

A shallow well pump can pull water from up to about 25 feet below the pump's location. If your well is deeper than that, you need a submersible pump installed inside the well, not a shallow well pump above ground. A well contractor can measure your well depth and recommend the right pump type.

Can I use flexible hose instead of rigid pipe for the suction line?

No. Flexible hose will collapse under the vacuum the pump creates, and the pump will lose prime. Use rigid PVC or galvanized steel pipe for the entire suction line. Flexible hose can be used for the discharge line, where water is being pushed rather than pulled.

What should I do if the pump loses prime during normal use?

The pump has lost its seal to air. Turn it off when ready and check for leaks in the suction line, especially at connection points. Tighten any loose fitting, re-prime the pump, and restart. If it loses prime again within a few hours, there is an air leak that needs to be found and sealed.

Do I need a pressure tank, or can I run the pump without one?

A pressure tank is not strictly required, but it is strongly recommended. Without one, the pump will start and stop every time you turn a faucet on or off, which wears out the pump motor much faster. A tank stores water so the pump runs less frequently and lasts longer.

How often should I check the pressure tank's air pressure?

Check it once a year, ideally at the start of winter. Air pressure can drop over time, and if it gets too low, the tank will not store water effectively and the pump will cycle too often. Use a tire gauge and add air with a bicycle pump if the pressure is low.