What You Need to Know Before You Start

A well hand pump can be installed on most existing wells in a few hours with basic tools and no special permits in most areas. The pump sits on top of your well casing, connects to a pipe that drops down into the water, and uses a handle to draw water up by hand. Installation requires you to measure your well depth, buy a pump sized to that depth, and find it to the casing with bolts or a clamp — no digging or drilling needed.

Before you buy a pump, you need to know three things: how deep your well is (measured from the top of the casing to the water surface), what diameter your well casing is (usually 4 or 6 inches), and whether you want a shallow-well pump (for wells under 25 feet) or a deep-well pump (for anything deeper). Hand pumps work best on wells between 10 and 300 feet deep. If your well is deeper than 300 feet, a hand pump becomes physically exhausting to use and a powered pump is more practical.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your well depth and casing diameter before buying a pump, because pumps are sized to specific depths and well widths.
  • Hand pumps bolt or clamp to the top of the well casing and require a drop pipe that reaches the water level inside the well.
  • The entire installation — bolting down the pump, attaching the drop pipe, and priming — takes two to four hours with basic hand tools.
  • Priming (filling the pump with water before first use) is essential and must be done every time the pump sits unused for more than a few days.
  • Most hand pumps work on wells 10 to 300 feet deep; shallower wells use one type of pump, deeper wells use another.

Measuring Your Well and Choosing the Right Pump

To find your well depth, tie a weight (a fishing sinker or bolt works) to a rope or string and lower it into the well until it hits water. Mark the rope at the top of the casing, pull it back up, and measure the wet section. That measurement is your well depth. Write it down — you will need it to buy the correct pump.

Next, measure the diameter of your well casing. Most residential wells are 4 or 6 inches across. Look at the top of the casing or check your well documentation if you have it. The pump you buy must fit your casing size.

Hand pumps come in two main types. Shallow-well pumps work on wells up to about 25 feet deep and are simpler and cheaper. Deep-well pumps work on wells 25 to 300 feet deep and have a longer cylinder that sits lower in the well. Buy the type that matches your depth. If you are between 20 and 30 feet, a deep-well pump gives you more reliable performance even though a shallow-well pump might technically work.

Gathering Tools and Materials

You will need a wrench set (adjustable wrench or socket set), a pipe wrench, a screwdriver set, a measuring tape, and a bucket for priming water. Most hand pumps come with bolts or a mounting clamp, but check the instructions before you buy to confirm what fasteners are included.

For the drop pipe (the pipe that runs from the pump down into the well), you need PVC or galvanized steel pipe in the diameter specified by your pump instructions — usually 1.25 or 1.5 inches. Buy enough to reach from the pump head down to at least 2 feet below your water level. You will also need pipe fittings: a foot valve (a one-way valve that sits at the bottom of the drop pipe to hold water in the pipe), a coupling or two to connect sections, and pipe thread sealant (plumber's tape or pipe dope).

If your pump came with a drop pipe already attached, you can skip buying pipe and fittings — just confirm the length reaches your water level.

Installing the Pump on the Well Casing

Start by cleaning the top of the well casing. Remove any debris, rust, or old pump parts. If the casing is very rusty, use a wire brush to clean it down to bare metal where the pump will sit.

Position the pump base (the flat part that bolts down) on top of the casing, centered and level. Most pumps have a square or rectangular base with four bolt holes. Align the holes with the casing and insert the bolts — hand-tighten them first so the pump sits flat and level. Use a level tool to check. Once level, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) so pressure is even. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack the casing or strip the bolts.

If your pump uses a clamp instead of bolts, position the clamp around the casing, slide the pump into the clamp bracket, and tighten the clamp bolts the same way — level first, then firm and even pressure.

Attaching the Drop Pipe and Foot Valve

The drop pipe is the lifeline of your pump. It carries water from below the surface up into the pump. Screw the foot valve onto the bottom end of the drop pipe using pipe thread sealant on the threads. The foot valve has a one-way flapper inside that lets water in but not out — this keeps the pipe full of water between uses.

If you are using multiple sections of pipe, connect them with couplings, wrapping the male threads with plumber's tape or explore pipe dope before screwing them together. Hand-tighten first, then use a pipe wrench to snug them — tight enough that they do not leak, but not so tight you crack the fitting.

Lower the drop pipe slowly into the well. Have a helper steady it or tie a rope to the top so it does not fall. Lower it until the foot valve is at least 2 feet below the water level. If your well is 40 feet deep and the water is 10 feet down, the foot valve should sit around 12 feet down. Screw the top of the drop pipe into the pump inlet — usually a threaded port on the pump body. Use a pipe wrench to tighten it, and wrap the threads with sealant first.

Priming the Pump

Priming means filling the pump and drop pipe with water so the pump can create suction and draw water up from the well. Without priming, the pump will not work — it will just move air.

Fill a bucket with water from another source (a hose, a rain barrel, or even a neighbor's tap). Pour the water slowly into the top of the pump while working the handle up and down. You may need to pour several buckets. Keep pumping and pouring until water comes out of the spout. This usually takes five to ten minutes. Once water flows, stop pouring and pump a few more times — the water should come out steadily.

If water stops flowing after a few hours or days, the pump has lost its prime. This happens when air leaks in through a loose fitting or when the pump sits unused for several days. Re-prime by pouring water in again and pumping until water flows.

Testing and Troubleshooting

Pump the handle smoothly and steadily — do not jerk it or pump too fast. A good rhythm is about one stroke per second. Water should flow within the first few strokes after priming. If it does not, check that all fittings are tight and that the drop pipe is fully submerged below the water level.

If water flows but then stops, the pump may have lost prime again. Check for air leaks at the pipe connections — tighten any loose fittings with a wrench. If the pump is new and has not been used in weeks, re-prime it before assuming something is wrong.

If the pump leaks at the base where it bolts to the casing, tighten the bolts a little more. If it leaks at a pipe fitting, turn off the pump, unscrew that fitting, wrap the threads with more plumber's tape, and screw it back in tighter.

Maintenance and Seasonal Care

Hand pumps are straightforward and durable, but they need basic care. After each use, wipe down the handle and pump body to prevent rust. In winter, if you live where it freezes, drain the pump and drop pipe before the first hard freeze — water inside will expand and crack the pump. To drain, unscrew the drop pipe at the pump inlet and let the water run out, or open a drain plug if your pump has one.

In spring, re-install the drop pipe, prime the pump, and test it. If the pump sits unused for more than a week, prime it again before using — this keeps the foot valve seated and the system ready.

Check the pump bolts once a year and tighten if needed. Inspect the drop pipe for cracks or leaks. If a section of pipe cracks, unscrew it, replace it with a new section, and re-prime.

Frequently Asked Questions

How deep can a hand pump pull water from?

Shallow-well pumps work down to about 25 feet. Deep-well pumps work down to 300 feet, though pumping from 200+ feet becomes physically tiring. Beyond 300 feet, a powered pump is more practical. Check your pump's specifications — they list the maximum depth.

What if my well casing is damaged or has a crack?

A small crack in the casing above the water line will not affect the pump. A crack below the water line can let contaminated water in and should be sealed by a well professional before you install a pump. If you are unsure, contact your local health department — they can inspect the well.

Can I install a hand pump on a well that already has a powered pump?

Yes. You can install a hand pump alongside an electric pump on the same well. Both connect to the casing, though you may need a larger casing or a special adapter if space is tight. Check with the pump manufacturer about whether your casing is wide enough for both.

How often do I need to prime the pump?

Prime it before first use and whenever it sits unused for more than a few days. In regular use (daily or several times a week), you usually do not need to re-prime. In winter or during long dry spells when the pump is idle, prime it before using again.

What if water never comes out even after priming?

Check that the foot valve is below the water level — if it is above the water, the pump cannot reach it. Confirm the drop pipe is screwed tightly into the pump inlet. Make sure all pipe fittings are tight and there are no cracks in the pipe. If the well is very deep (over 250 feet), hand pumping may be too difficult — consider a powered pump instead.