What a hand pump well installation involves
Installing a hand pump water well means drilling or digging a hole deep enough to reach groundwater, then lowering a pipe and pump assembly into it so you can draw water by hand. The job breaks into three main phases: preparing the well hole itself (either by drilling or hand-digging), assembling and lowering the pump and pipe, and sealing the top so dirt and contaminants stay out. Most hand pump installations take a weekend to several days if you are doing the work yourself, though professional drilling can be faster.
The depth you need depends on your location—some areas have water at 25 feet, others at 100 feet or more. Before you start, check with your local health department or well contractor to learn the typical depth in your area and whether you need a permit. Many counties require one, and some prohibit hand-dug wells entirely in favor of drilled ones.
Key Takeaways
- You must know your water table depth before starting; contact your local health department or a well driller to find out what is typical in your area.
- Hand-dug wells work best in areas where water is 25 to 35 feet deep; deeper wells usually require drilling equipment you can rent or hire.
- The pump, pipe, and screen assembly must be lowered together as one unit and sealed at the top to prevent contamination.
- A hand pump well needs a sanitary seal—usually a concrete collar around the top—and regular testing to confirm the water is safe to drink.
Determining depth and getting a permit
Call your county health department or extension office and ask what the water table depth is in your neighborhood. This single number determines whether you can hand-dig or must hire a driller. If the water table is 25 to 35 feet down, hand-digging is possible with help and basic tools. If it is deeper than 40 feet, renting a drilling rig or hiring a professional driller is usually faster and safer.
Ask the health department whether you need a well permit before you dig. Most counties require one, and some charge a small fee. The permit process typically involves submitting a straightforward form with your property address and the proposed well location. The department may also specify construction standards you must follow—for instance, how deep the sanitary seal must be or what materials the casing pipe must be made from. Getting the permit before you start protects you legally and ensures your well meets local water safety rules.
Choosing between hand-digging and drilling
Hand-digging works if your water table is shallow (under 35 feet) and your soil is not too rocky. You will need at least two people, a hand auger or post-hole digger, a rope and pulley system to haul soil out, and a sturdy wooden frame or tripod over the hole. The process is slow—expect to dig 2 to 4 feet per day—but it costs almost nothing beyond tool rental.
Drilling is faster and reaches deeper water. You can rent a small cable-tool rig (hand-operated) for shallow wells or hire a truck-mounted drilling contractor for deeper ones. Rental rigs typically cost $200 to $500 per day, while professional drilling runs $1,500 to $3,000 depending on depth. If you rent, the rental company usually provides basic instruction. If you hire a driller, they handle the entire hole and often install the casing pipe as well, leaving you to install the pump assembly.
Assembling the pump and pipe before lowering
Assemble the entire pump, pipe, and screen unit on the ground before you lower it into the well. Start at the bottom: attach a well screen (a fine mesh tube that keeps sediment out) to the bottom of your first length of pipe. Then connect additional pipe sections upward using threaded couplings, working your way to the surface. The total length must reach from the bottom of the well to at least 3 feet above ground level.
Once all pipe sections are connected, attach the hand pump to the top. Most hand pumps bolt directly to the pipe with a straightforward flange connection. Before you lower anything, test the pump by hand to make sure it moves freely and the handle is not stuck. Check that all couplings are tight—a leak underground is nearly impossible to fix without pulling the entire assembly out.
If your well is deeper than 30 feet, you may need to add a check valve (a one-way valve that prevents water from draining back down the pipe when you stop pumping). Install it just above the well screen, following the pump manufacturer's instructions. This step is optional for shallow wells but makes pumping easier on deeper ones.
Lowering the assembly and sealing the top
Lower the assembled pump and pipe slowly and carefully into the well hole. Use a rope tied to the pipe near the top, not to the pump handle itself. Have one person guide the assembly while another controls the rope. Lower it hand over hand, stopping every few feet to make sure it is going straight down and not tilting or catching on the well wall.
Once the screen reaches the bottom, the pipe should extend 3 to 4 feet above ground. If it does not, you assembled it too short—pull it back out and add another section. Adjust the height so the pump handle is comfortable to reach, usually around waist height.
After the assembly is in place, create a sanitary seal at the top of the well. This is a concrete collar that prevents dirt, insects, and surface water from entering around the pipe. Dig a shallow basin around the pipe at ground level, about 12 inches deep and 2 feet across. Mix concrete and pour it into the basin, sloping it slightly away from the pipe so water runs off. The concrete should cover the top of the well casing and surround the pump base. Let it cure for at least 48 hours before you pump.
Testing water quality and maintenance
Before you drink the water, have it tested by your health department or a certified lab. Most counties offer testing for bacteria, nitrates, and other contaminants at low cost. New wells sometimes produce cloudy or discolored water for the first few days—pump it until it runs clear, then test again. Do not drink the water until the test results come back safe.
After installation, maintain the well by pumping it regularly (at least once a week) to keep the screen from clogging. If you leave it unused for more than a month, prime it by pouring a bucket of water down the top before you pump. Check the sanitary seal each year for cracks and repair them with concrete patching compound. Have the water tested annually or whenever it looks, smells, or tastes unusual.
Common mistakes to avoid
Do not skip the permit. Installing a well without one can result in fines and may make your well unusable if an inspector finds it. Do not assemble the pump and pipe in the well—always assemble it on the ground where you can see all the connections and test the pump before lowering.
Do not use PVC pipe for the casing if your local health department prohibits it; many areas require steel or galvanized pipe because PVC can degrade over time. Do not forget the sanitary seal—a well without one can become contaminated within months. Do not pump the well dry; if water stops coming, stop pumping and wait a few hours for the water table to recover. Continuous pumping on a shallow well can damage the screen.
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep do I need to dig to find water?
Depth varies by location. In some areas water is 20 feet down; in others it is 100 feet or more. Contact your county health department, extension office, or a local well driller—they know the typical depth in your area and can tell you what to expect before you start.
Can I install a hand pump well on my own?
If the water table is shallow (under 35 feet) and your soil is not too rocky, yes—hand-digging is possible with one or two helpers and basic tools. Deeper wells usually require renting or hiring drilling equipment. Either way, you will need a permit from your local health department.
What is a well screen and why do I need one?
A well screen is a fine mesh tube attached to the bottom of the pipe that lets water in but keeps sand and sediment out. Without it, sediment clogs the pump and makes the water cloudy. It is a required part of any well installation.
How long does it take to install a hand pump well?
Hand-digging typically takes several days to a week depending on depth and soil type. Professional drilling can be done in a few hours. After the hole is ready, assembling and lowering the pump takes a few hours, and the concrete seal needs 48 hours to cure before you can use the well.
Do I need to test the water after installation?
Yes. Have your water tested by your health department or a certified lab before drinking it. New wells sometimes produce cloudy water for a few days—pump it clear first, then test. Test annually after that or whenever the water looks or smells unusual.