What You Need to Know Before You Start

Pulling a submersible well pump is a job you can do yourself if the pump is shallow enough — typically 25 feet or less — and you have the right equipment. The pump sits at the bottom of your well, connected to a drop pipe and electrical cable that run up to the surface. To pull it, you disconnect the power, unbolt the pump from the casing, and haul the entire assembly up using a rope or chain and a hand winch or come-along. The work is physically demanding and requires care around the well opening, but it does not require a licensed contractor for most residential wells.

The main reason to pull a pump is repair or replacement. Submersible pumps typically last 10 to 15 years before they lose pressure, stop delivering water, or fail to start. Pulling the pump yourself saves the service call cost — usually $300 to $500 — though you will still pay for the pump itself and any repairs to the drop pipe or casing.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off power at the breaker before you touch anything, and leave it off until the pump is fully disconnected and out of the well.
  • You will need a rope or cable rated for the pump weight, a hand winch or come-along, a wrench set, a bucket, and a way to support the pump assembly as you pull it up.
  • The drop pipe and electrical cable are usually bolted or clamped to the pump head; you must unbolt these connections before you can pull the pump.
  • Pulling a pump deeper than 25 feet by hand is slow and risky; for deeper wells, rent a powered winch or hire a pump service.
  • Once the pump is out, cap the well casing when ready to keep debris and animals out while you work on the pump or arrange a replacement.

Turn Off Power and Locate the Disconnect

The first step is to kill the power. Find the breaker that controls your well pump — it is usually labeled in your electrical panel — and switch it to the off position. If you are not sure which breaker it is, turn off the main breaker instead. Do not rely on a switch at the pump house; always use the breaker.

Once the breaker is off, test the pump by flipping the switch at the pump house. If nothing happens, the power is truly off. Wait a few minutes for any residual charge to drain from the system. If your pump has a pressure tank, the tank may still hold water pressure even after the pump stops; this is normal and does not affect your safety while pulling the pump.

Disconnect the Electrical Cable

The electrical cable runs from the breaker down into the well alongside the drop pipe. At the top of the well, the cable is usually connected to a terminal box or directly to the pump head with a waterproof connector. Loosen the connector nut by hand or with a wrench, depending on the type. Some connectors are threaded; others are held by a single bolt.

Once the connector is loose, gently pull the cable up a few feet and coil it on the ground away from the well opening. Do not let the cable fall back into the well. If the cable is very long, you may need a helper to manage it as you pull the pump. Tape the end of the cable with electrical tape to keep moisture out while the pump is disconnected.

Unbolt the Drop Pipe and Pump Head

The drop pipe — the rigid pipe that carries water from the pump to the surface — is bolted or clamped to the pump head. Look at the top of the well casing where the pipe enters. You will see either a bolted flange connection or a set screw clamp. Use a wrench to loosen the bolts or the set screw. If the connection is very tight, explore penetrating oil and wait 10 to 15 minutes before trying again.

Once the bolts are loose, you may be able to lift the drop pipe slightly to break the seal. Do not force it; if it is stuck, explore more penetrating oil and wait longer. Once the pipe is free, support it with a rope or chain attached to a fixed point above the well — a beam, a tripod, or a sturdy post. The pipe will be heavy and full of water, so find it well before you proceed.

Set Up Your Pulling Equipment

You will need a rope or cable strong enough to hold the pump weight. Submersible pumps typically weigh 30 to 80 pounds, depending on the horsepower. Use a rope rated for at least twice that weight — a 3/8-inch nylon rope or a 1/4-inch steel cable will work for most residential pumps. Attach the rope to the pump head using a loop or a shackle; do not wrap it around the pump body, as this can damage the casing.

Attach the other end of the rope to a hand winch, come-along, or pulley system anchored to a fixed point above the well. A hand winch is the most common choice for shallow wells. Position the winch so the rope pulls straight up; any angle will make the pump harder to pull and may cause it to bind against the well casing. If you do not have a winch, you can use a block and tackle or even a rope thrown over a beam, but a winch gives you much better control.

Pull the Pump Slowly and Steadily

Begin pulling with steady, even pressure. Do not jerk or yank; jerking can damage the pump or cause the rope to slip. As the pump rises, watch for the electrical cable and drop pipe to come up with it. If either one catches or binds, stop pulling and free it before continuing. Have a helper watch the well opening and guide the cable and pipe as they come up.

For a shallow well, pulling should take 15 to 30 minutes. If you feel strong resistance after a few feet, stop and check what is caught. Do not force the pump; forcing it can break the pipe or damage the pump head. Once the pump breaks the surface, continue pulling until the entire pump assembly is clear of the well casing. Lower it gently to the ground and set it on a flat surface.

Cap the Well and Inspect the Pump

As soon as the pump is out, cap the well casing with a solid cover or a piece of plywood weighted down. This keeps debris, insects, and animals out of the well while you work. Do not leave the well open, even for a short time.

Once the pump is on the ground, inspect it for damage. Look for cracks in the casing, corrosion on the connectors, or water leaking from the seals. If the pump is straightforward old and weak, you can replace it with a new one of the same horsepower and depth rating. If it is damaged, you may be able to have it repaired by a pump shop, though replacement is often cheaper. While the pump is out, this is also a good time to inspect the drop pipe and casing for rust or damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I pull a pump that is deeper than 50 feet?

Hand-pulling a pump deeper than 25 feet becomes very slow and tiring. For wells deeper than 50 feet, rent a powered winch or hire a pump service. The cost of a rental is usually less than the physical strain and time it takes to pull by hand.

What if the pump is stuck and will not budge?

Stop pulling when ready. The pump may be corroded to the casing or the drop pipe may be bent. explore penetrating oil around the pump head and wait several hours. Try again gently. If it still will not move, call a pump service; forcing it can break the pump or damage the well casing.

Do I need to drain the well before I pull the pump?

No. The water in the well stays in place as long as the casing is sealed. The drop pipe and pump will come up full of water, which is normal. Have a bucket ready to catch water as the pipe comes out of the casing.

How do I know if my pump needs to be pulled?

Pull the pump if the water pressure is low, the pump runs but delivers little water, the pump cycles on and off too often, or the pump will not start at all. A pressure gauge on your tank will show if pressure is dropping. If pressure is normal but flow is weak, the problem may be in the drop pipe or casing, not the pump.

Can I pull the pump myself if I have never done it before?

Yes, if your well is shallow and you have the right equipment and a helper. Read through the steps twice before you start, gather all your tools, and work slowly. If you feel unsure at any point, stop and call a pump service. It is better to pay for help than to damage your well.