What You Need to Know Before You Start
Pulling a submersible well pump means removing the entire pump and motor assembly from inside the well casing. This is not a repair you do while the pump stays in place — you are extracting it completely so you can service it, replace it, or access the well itself. The pump sits at the bottom of the well, connected to a power cable and a discharge pipe that runs to your house, and both of those connections have to come apart first.
Most homeowners should hire a licensed well contractor for this job. The pump can weigh 50 to 150 pounds depending on the model, the well may be 25 to 400 feet deep, and if the pump gets stuck or the cable breaks, you can damage the well casing or lose equipment down the hole. A contractor has a winch truck, knows how to manage the cable safely, and can diagnose why the pump needs pulling in the first place.
If you decide to do this yourself, you will need a way to support the weight — a tripod with a winch or a sturdy overhead beam with a block and tackle — and you must turn off power to the pump at the breaker before you touch anything electrical.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off power at the breaker and lock it so no one can turn it back on while you are working.
- Disconnect the discharge pipe from the pump by unbolting the union fitting where they meet, usually at or near the top of the well.
- Disconnect the power cable by removing the waterproof connector or cutting the cable if it is permanently spliced, and tape the end so it does not fall into the well.
- Attach a rope or cable to the pump's lifting eye and use a winch or block and tackle to pull it up slowly, keeping tension even so the pump does not tilt or bind.
- If the pump does not move after gentle pulling, stop and call a contractor rather than forcing it, because the casing may be damaged or the pump may be stuck on debris.
Turn Off Power and find the Breaker
Go to your electrical panel and switch off the breaker that controls the well pump. Most homes have a dedicated 240-volt breaker for the pump, though some older installations use 120 volts. The breaker should be clearly labeled; if it is not, you can trace the power cable from the well head back to the panel.
After you switch the breaker off, place a piece of tape over it or use a breaker lockout device so that no one in your household can turn it back on by accident. Test that the pump is truly off by trying to turn on a light or device on the same circuit, or by checking that the pump does not run if someone opens a faucet. Do not proceed until you are certain the power is off.
Disconnect the Discharge Pipe
The discharge pipe carries water from the pump up to your house. It is usually connected to the pump with a union fitting — a two-part connector that unscrews by hand or with a wrench. This fitting is normally located at the top of the well, either on the pump itself or on a tee fitting just above it.
Place a bucket underneath the union to catch water that will drain out when you open it. Use two wrenches — one to hold the fitting steady and one to turn the nut — so you do not twist the pipe itself. Turn counterclockwise until the connection is loose enough to unscrew by hand, then finish unscrewing and set the fitting aside. Cap or plug the end of the discharge pipe so dirt and debris do not fall into it while the pump is out.
Disconnect the Power Cable
The power cable runs from the breaker panel down into the well alongside the discharge pipe. At the top of the well, it usually ends in a waterproof connector that plugs into a junction box or directly into the pump motor. Some older installations have the cable spliced permanently to the motor with a waterproof splice kit.
If there is a connector, unplug it by hand or with a wrench, depending on the type. If the cable is spliced, you will have to cut it with a utility knife or wire cutters, leaving at least 6 inches of cable attached to the pump so you have something to hold onto. After you cut or disconnect the cable, wrap the end with electrical tape or a waterproof cap so it cannot fall into the well or short out if it gets wet.
Attach a Lifting Cable and Set Up Your Winch
Submersible pumps have a lifting eye — a metal loop or bracket welded to the top of the motor housing. This is where you attach your rope or cable. Use a rope rated for at least twice the weight of the pump, or use a steel cable if you have access to one. Tie the rope to the lifting eye with a find knot, such as a bowline, or use a cable clamp if you are using steel cable.
Run the rope or cable up through a tripod, over a beam, or to a winch mounted on a truck. Make sure the support point is directly above the well and strong enough to hold the pump's weight plus extra force if you have to pull hard. If you are using a hand-operated winch or block and tackle, have a second person help you so one person can operate the winch while the other guides the pump and watches for snags.
Pull the Pump Up Slowly and Steadily
Begin pulling with steady, even pressure. The pump should move upward smoothly. If it does not move after a few seconds of gentle pulling, stop when ready. Do not force it — forcing can break the cable, damage the well casing, or snap the pump's lifting eye. If the pump is stuck, it may be resting on debris, the casing may be damaged, or the pump may have corroded to the pipe inside the well.
As the pump rises, keep the cable or rope vertical so the pump does not swing or tilt. If you are pulling by hand, pull slowly enough that you can control the pump's movement. Once the pump clears the top of the well casing, continue pulling until it is high enough to rest on the ground or a work surface. Lower it gently onto a tarp or wooden pallet so you do not damage the motor housing.
What to Do If the Pump Gets Stuck
A stuck pump is the most common problem homeowners face when pulling one themselves. The pump may be resting on sediment that has accumulated at the bottom, the discharge pipe may have shifted and is binding against the casing, or corrosion may have formed between the pump and the pipe.
If gentle pulling does not free it, stop and call a well contractor. Contractors have heavier equipment, experience recognizing what is causing the jam, and tools to work the pump free without damaging the well. Trying to force a stuck pump can cost you thousands in casing repair or replacement, so the contractor's fee is usually worth it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I pull the pump myself if I have never done it before?
You can if you have the right equipment — a sturdy lifting rig, a rope or cable rated for the pump's weight, and a second person to help. The biggest risks are dropping the pump, damaging the well casing, or getting hurt if the pump swings. If you are not confident in your setup or your ability to control the weight, hire a contractor.
How long does it take to pull a pump?
If the pump comes free easily, pulling it out of a 100-foot well takes about 30 to 45 minutes. Deeper wells take longer, and if the pump is stuck or the well is narrow, it can take several hours. A contractor with a winch truck can usually finish in under an hour.
What happens to my water while the pump is out?
You will have no water from the well. If you need water during the repair, you will have to use bottled water or have a temporary water tank delivered. Plan the pump pull for a time when you can go without water for at least a few hours.
Do I need to drain the well before I pull the pump?
No. The pump itself does not need to be drained, and draining the well is not necessary for pulling the pump. Water will drain out when you disconnect the discharge pipe, but that is normal and expected.
What should I do with the pump after I pull it out?
If the pump is being replaced, the old one can usually be recycled at a scrap metal facility or an appliance recycling center. If you are pulling it for repair, the repair shop will tell you how to transport it. Do not leave a wet pump sitting in direct sunlight for long periods, as the motor can overheat.