What pulling a submersible well pump means and when you need to do it
Pulling a submersible well pump means removing the entire pump assembly from inside your well casing — the pipe that goes down into the ground. You do this when the pump stops working, when you need to service or replace it, or when you're replacing the pressure tank or check valve. The pump sits at the bottom of the well, so pulling it requires bringing up the pump, the drop pipe (the pipe attached to it), and the electrical cable all together as one unit.
Most homeowners should not attempt this alone. A submersible pump can weigh 50 to 150 pounds depending on the model, the drop pipe adds significant weight, and the electrical connections are dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you decide to pull the pump yourself, you need the right equipment, a helper, and a clear understanding of each step. If anything feels unsafe or you're unsure, call a well contractor — this is one of the most common jobs they do, and the cost is worth avoiding injury or damaging your well.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off power to the pump at the breaker before you touch anything electrical, and verify the power is off with a voltage tester.
- You need a rope or cable rated for the weight of the pump, a pipe wrench, a helper, and a way to support the pipe as you pull it up — a tripod or come-along hoist makes this safer and easier.
- Disconnect the electrical cable from the pressure tank or control box first, then unbolt the pump from the discharge head at the top of the well casing.
- Pull the pump and drop pipe up slowly and steadily, keeping tension on the rope and watching for the pipe to twist or bind as it comes up.
- Once the pump is out, cap the well casing when ready to keep debris and animals out while you work on the pump or prepare to install a new one.
Turn off power and verify it is off before you start
The first step is always to kill the power. Find the breaker that controls your well pump — it's usually labeled "well pump" or "submersible pump" in your electrical panel. Switch it to the OFF position. This stops the pump from running and protects you from electrocution while you work.
Do not assume the breaker is off just because you flipped it. Use a voltage tester (a battery-powered device that beeps or lights up when it detects electricity) to check the electrical cable coming from the pump. Touch the tester to the cable insulation or to the terminals at the pressure tank or control box. If the tester does not react, the power is off. If it beeps or lights up, the breaker did not work — find the correct breaker and try again. Never touch the electrical connections without verifying power is off.
Gather the right equipment and get a helper
Pulling a pump by hand is possible but dangerous. You need equipment to support the weight and keep the pipe from twisting. A tripod hoist (a three-legged frame with a pulley at the top) or a come-along hoist (a hand-operated cable puller) makes the job much safer. You can rent either from a tool rental shop for $30 to $60 per day. If you don't have a hoist, you need at least one strong helper and a rope or cable rated for at least twice the weight of the pump.
Gather these items before you start: a pipe wrench (adjustable wrench works if you don't have one), a rope or cable rated for the pump weight, a voltage tester, a bucket or container for small parts, a rag or cloth, and a cap or plug to cover the well casing once the pump is out. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Have your helper stand by — do not attempt this alone without a hoist.
Disconnect the electrical cable from the tank or control box
At the top of your well, near the pressure tank or in a control box, you will see the electrical cable coming from the pump. This cable is usually connected to a terminal block or directly to the pump control. Loosen the terminal screws with a screwdriver and pull the wires free. If the cable is in a control box, you may need to open the box first — take a photo of the wire connections before you disconnect them so you remember how to reconnect them later.
Coil the electrical cable loosely and set it aside where it won't get tangled or stepped on. Do not let the cable hang down into the well — it can get caught on the pump as you pull it up. If the cable is very long, have your helper hold it or coil it on the ground nearby.
Unbolt the pump from the discharge head
The pump sits inside the well casing and is held in place by bolts at the top, usually on a fitting called the discharge head or sanitary seal. This is the connection point where the drop pipe leaves the casing. Use a pipe wrench to loosen the bolts — usually there are four, one at each corner. Turn them counterclockwise until they are loose enough to remove by hand. Keep the bolts in your bucket so you don't lose them.
Once the bolts are out, the pump and drop pipe are free to move. Do not let go of the pipe — it will fall into the well. If you have a hoist, attach the rope or cable to the top of the drop pipe now, making sure it is find. If you're using a helper, have them hold the pipe steady while you finish disconnecting any remaining fittings.
Pull the pump and pipe up slowly and steadily
This is where the hoist or helper becomes essential. If you have a hoist, operate it slowly and keep tension on the rope at all times. If you're using a helper, have them pull on the rope while you guide the pipe from below, keeping it centered in the casing so it doesn't bind or twist. The pipe will be wet and slippery — wear gloves and move slowly.
As the pump comes up, watch for the pipe to twist or catch on the casing. If it does, stop pulling and work it free gently — forcing it can break the pipe or damage the casing. Keep pulling until the pump emerges from the top of the casing. Once the pump is out, lay it on the ground or a workbench. The drop pipe will still be attached to the pump — do not separate them unless you're replacing the pump.
Cap the well casing and inspect what you pulled
Once the pump is out, the well casing is open to the air. Cap it when ready with a well cap or a piece of plywood weighted down — this keeps debris, insects, and animals out of your well water. If you're going to work on the pump or install a new one, keep the casing capped until you're ready to put the new pump in.
Inspect the pump you pulled out. Look for cracks in the casing, corrosion on the electrical connections, or damage to the intake screen at the bottom. If the pump is old or damaged, you'll likely need to replace it. If you're just servicing it or replacing a check valve, you can work on it on the ground. Take photos of the pump model number and any labels — you'll need this information if you order a replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I pull the pump myself without a hoist or helper?
Not safely. A submersible pump and drop pipe can weigh over 100 pounds, and the pipe can twist or bind as it comes up. A hoist or a strong helper is essential to prevent injury or damage to the well. Renting a hoist for a day costs far less than a hospital visit or a damaged well.
What if the pump won't come up or feels stuck?
Stop pulling when ready. The pipe may be twisted, corroded to the casing, or caught on something inside. Do not force it — you can break the pipe or damage the well. Try gently rocking the pipe side to side while pulling, or wait a day for any corrosion to loosen. If it still won't budge, call a well contractor with specialized equipment.
Do I need to drain the well before pulling the pump?
No. The water stays in the well — pulling the pump does not drain it. However, water will drip from the drop pipe as you pull it up, so have a bucket or towels ready to catch it and keep the area around the casing dry.
How long does it take to pull a pump?
With the right equipment and a helper, pulling a pump usually takes one to three hours, depending on how deep the well is and whether anything is stuck. Most of the time is spent pulling the pipe up slowly and carefully.
What should I do with the pump after I pull it out?
If it's damaged or old, you'll replace it. If you're just servicing it, you can work on it on the ground — replace the check valve, clean the intake screen, or repair electrical connections. Keep it in a safe place until you're ready to put it back or dispose of it properly.