Removing a submersible pump yourself is possible if the well is shallow and you have the right tools, but most homeowners call a professional because the pump sits hundreds of feet down and weighs 50 to 150 pounds

A submersible pump lives inside your well casing, submerged in water. To remove it, you pull up the pump and the electrical cable and pressure line attached to it—all at once, hand over hand or with a winch. The job is straightforward in concept but physically demanding and risky if something goes wrong. The pump can slip, the cable can fray and shock you, or you can drop the whole assembly back into the well. For wells deeper than 50 feet, or if you are not confident with the work, hiring a well contractor is the safer choice.

Key Takeaways

  • Submersible pumps are pulled straight up out of the well casing along with their electrical cable and pressure line, which are all connected as one unit.
  • Shallow wells (under 50 feet) are manageable for a homeowner with a winch or come-along, but deep wells require professional equipment and experience.
  • You must turn off power at the breaker and drain the pressure tank before you start, or you risk electrical shock and water spray.
  • The pump, cable, and line must be disconnected from the check valve and pressure tank at the surface before you can pull the pump out.
  • If the pump is stuck, do not force it—call a professional, because pulling too hard can break the cable or damage the well casing.

Shut off power and depressurize the system

Before you touch anything, turn off the circuit breaker that powers the pump. The breaker is usually labeled "well pump" or "submersible pump" in your electrical panel. Leave it off for at least five minutes to make sure any residual charge drains from the system.

Next, open a faucet or outdoor spigot connected to your well system and let water run until the pressure tank is empty. You will hear the pressure drop—the water flow will slow and then stop. This step is critical: if you do not depressurize the tank, water and air will spray out under pressure when you disconnect the pump, and you risk injury.

Disconnect the pump from the pressure tank and check valve

At the top of your well, you will see a sanitary seal or well cap covering the casing. Below that is the check valve (a one-way valve that prevents water from flowing back into the well) and the pressure line running to your pressure tank. You may also see an electrical conduit carrying the pump cable.

Using two adjustable wrenches, hold the fitting on the check valve steady with one wrench while you unscrew the pressure line with the other. Unscrew the electrical connector at the top of the well casing—this is usually a threaded cap or a splice box. Once the pressure line and electrical connector are loose, you can begin pulling the pump out. Have a bucket or wet towel ready; water will drip from the line as you pull.

Pull the pump out of the well casing

For a shallow well (under 50 feet), you can pull by hand, but use a winch, come-along, or block and tackle to make the work easier and safer. Attach the winch to the pump cable near the top—never to the cable itself, as you can damage the insulation and create an electrical hazard. Wrap the cable around a sturdy wooden beam or use a cable grip designed for this purpose.

Pull slowly and steadily. The pump will come up with the pressure line and electrical cable all attached. As you pull, coil the cable and line neatly on the ground so they do not tangle. If you feel resistance or the pump seems stuck, stop pulling. Do not force it. A stuck pump usually means the cable is snagged on the casing, or the pump itself is wedged. Forcing it can break the cable or damage the well casing, which is expensive to repair.

Once the pump clears the top of the casing, lay it on a clean surface. The pump, cable, and line are now disconnected from your well system.

Inspect the cable and line for damage

Before you set the pump aside, look at the electrical cable and pressure line for cracks, cuts, or exposed wire. The cable should have a smooth, intact outer jacket. If you see damage, the cable cannot be reused and must be replaced when you install a new pump. The pressure line should also be intact; small cracks or pinhole leaks mean it needs replacement.

If the pump is being removed for repair or replacement, photograph the cable and line connections so you remember how they were arranged. This will help when the new pump is installed.

When to call a professional instead

Call a well contractor if your well is deeper than 100 feet, if the pump feels stuck or will not budge, if you do not have a winch or come-along, or if you are uncomfortable working at heights or with electrical connections. Contractors have truck-mounted winches, specialized cable grips, and experience pulling pumps from difficult wells. They can also diagnose why a pump is stuck and remove it without damaging the well casing.

If the pump has been in the well for 20 years or more, it may be corroded to the casing, and a professional has the tools and knowledge to work around that. The cost of a professional removal is usually $300 to $800, depending on well depth and how difficult the pump is to extract. That is often less than the cost of repairing a damaged well casing or replacing a broken cable.

Protect the well after pump removal

Once the pump is out, cover the well casing with a sanitary cap or seal to keep debris, insects, and contamination out of the well. Do not leave the casing open, even for a few hours. If you are waiting for a new pump to be installed, keep the cap on until the new pump is ready to go in.

If the well will sit unused for more than a few weeks, ask your contractor about winterization or flushing the casing to prevent sediment buildup. This is especially important in cold climates where water can freeze inside the casing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I remove the pump myself if my well is 75 feet deep?

Yes, if you have a winch or come-along and feel confident with the work. At 75 feet, the pump and cable weigh roughly 100 to 120 pounds, and pulling takes 30 to 45 minutes. The main risk is the cable slipping or the pump getting stuck. If you have never done this before, watching a video or having a contractor walk you through it the first time is worth the cost.

What happens if I drop the pump back into the well?

The pump will sink to the bottom and may be damaged beyond repair. Retrieving it requires a professional with specialized fishing tools, which can cost $1,000 or more. Always use a winch or find grip, and never pull faster than you can control the weight.

Do I need to replace the pressure line when I remove the pump?

Not always. If the line is intact and has no cracks or leaks, it can be reused. However, if it is more than 10 years old or shows signs of wear, replacing it when you install a new pump is a good idea. A new line costs $100 to $300 and prevents leaks later.

How long does it take to remove a submersible pump?

For a shallow well (under 50 feet), removal takes 1 to 2 hours if you work alone and the pump comes up easily. Deeper wells or stuck pumps take longer. A professional can usually remove and install a new pump in 3 to 4 hours.

What should I do if the electrical cable is damaged when I pull the pump out?

Stop pulling when ready and do not touch the damaged section. Damaged cable is a shock hazard. Let the pump rest in the well temporarily, and call a contractor to assess the damage and remove the pump safely. A new cable costs $200 to $500 and must be installed by someone experienced with well electrical systems.