What You Need to Know Before Starting

Removing a submersible well pump is a job you can do yourself if the pump is shallow enough to reach and you follow the right steps in order. The pump sits at the bottom of your well, connected to a drop pipe that runs to the surface, and it pulls water up through that pipe to your house. To remove it, you'll need to turn off power, drain the system, disconnect the electrical wire, and then pull the pipe and pump up out of the well casing — usually with a pipe wrench and steady hand, or with a come-along or small winch if the pump is deep or heavy.

The job takes two to four hours for a shallow well (under 50 feet) and is manageable for one person, though a helper makes it safer and faster. If your well is deeper than 100 feet, the pump weighs more than you can safely lift, or you're not confident working at height on a well casing, hire a licensed well contractor instead. A bad pull can damage the drop pipe, crack the well casing, or drop the pump back down into the water.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the breaker to the pump at your electrical panel and test the power with a voltage tester before you touch anything.
  • Open a faucet inside the house to drain pressure from the system, then disconnect the electrical wire from the pump at the well head.
  • Use a pipe wrench to loosen the top fitting where the drop pipe enters the well casing, then pull the pipe and pump straight up slowly and steadily.
  • Keep the electrical wire coiled and secured as you pull so it doesn't snag or get damaged, and have a bucket ready to catch water that drains from the pipe.
  • If the pump won't budge after gentle pulling, stop and call a contractor rather than risk breaking the pipe or casing.

Turn Off Power and Test for Live Current

Go to your electrical panel and locate the breaker labeled for the well pump. Flip it to the OFF position. If the breaker is not labeled, look for a 240-volt double-pole breaker (two switches side by side) — most submersible pumps run on 240 volts, though some older systems use 120 volts. Once the breaker is off, go back to the well and use a non-contact voltage tester on the electrical wire at the well head to confirm there is no current running through it. A voltage tester costs $10 to $20 at any hardware store and is the safest way to be sure.

Do not skip this step. A live electrical wire in a wet environment can kill you. If you are unsure which breaker controls the pump, turn off the main breaker to the whole house instead — it takes longer to restore power later, but it guarantees the pump is dead.

Drain the System and Disconnect the Wire

Open a faucet inside your house — the kitchen sink works well — and let it run until water stops flowing. This drains the pressure from the drop pipe so water doesn't spray out when you disconnect it. Leave the faucet open while you work.

At the well head (the metal or plastic cap at ground level where the pipe and wire come out), you will see the electrical wire connected to a terminal or splice. Loosen the wire connection by hand or with a wrench, depending on how it's fastened. If it's a splice connector, unscrew it. If it's bolted to a terminal, use an adjustable wrench to loosen the bolt. Once the wire is free, coil it loosely and find it with a zip tie or tape so it doesn't fall into the well or get tangled as you pull the pipe.

Loosen the Drop Pipe at the Well Head

The drop pipe is the rigid metal or PVC pipe that runs down into the well. At the top, it connects to the well casing with a fitting — usually a union (a two-part connector that unscrews) or a threaded coupling. Use a pipe wrench to grip the fitting and turn it counterclockwise. If it's a union, you may need two wrenches — one to hold the lower part steady while you turn the upper part.

Turn slowly and steadily. If the fitting is stuck, spray it with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 10 to 15 minutes before trying again. Do not force it or you risk cracking the fitting or the pipe. Once the fitting is loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew it the rest of the way and set it aside.

Pull the Pipe and Pump Out of the Well

This is the critical step. Stand at the well casing and grip the drop pipe near the top with both hands or with a pipe wrench. Pull straight up slowly and steadily. The pipe will come up in sections — most drop pipes are connected with threaded couplings every 10 feet or so. As each section comes free, set it aside on the ground in order (mark them 1, 2, 3 from top to bottom so you know which end goes down when you reinstall).

Keep pulling until the pump itself comes out of the well. The pump is heavier than the pipe and will be at the very bottom. As you pull, water will drain from the pipe — have a bucket or a length of PVC pipe positioned to catch it so it doesn't flood the area around the well. If you have a helper, one person pulls while the other guides the pipe and coils the electrical wire to keep it from snagging.

If the pipe and pump feel stuck and won't move after gentle pulling, stop. Do not yank or use a come-along unless you are experienced with the equipment. A stuck pump usually means sediment or mineral buildup in the casing, and forcing it can crack the casing or break the pipe. Call a well contractor at this point.

Inspect the Pump and Prepare for Reinstallation or Replacement

Once the pump is out, set it on the ground and inspect it. Check the intake screen (the mesh or perforated section at the bottom) for sand, sediment, or debris. If the screen is clogged, that may be why the pump stopped working. You can sometimes clean it with a soft brush and water, though a heavily clogged screen usually means the pump needs to be replaced.

Before you reinstall the pump or install a new one, inspect the drop pipe for cracks, corrosion, or damage. If the pipe is cracked or severely corroded, replace it — a damaged pipe will leak and reduce water pressure. If everything looks sound, you can reinstall the same pump or install a new one by reversing these steps: connect the pipe sections from bottom to top, thread the top fitting back into the well casing, reconnect the electrical wire, and turn the breaker back on.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Forgetting to turn off power: This is the most dangerous mistake. Always kill the breaker and test with a voltage tester before you touch the wire.

Not draining the system: If you skip opening a faucet, water will spray out when you disconnect the pipe, and you'll lose pressure in your house lines. Open a faucet and leave it open the whole time.

Forcing a stuck fitting: Pipe fittings can crack if you overtighten or yank on them. Use penetrating oil and patience. If it won't budge, stop and call a contractor.

Pulling the pipe at an angle: Always pull straight up. Pulling at an angle can crack the well casing or bend the pipe. If the pipe is stuck, it's stuck — don't force it sideways.

Losing track of pipe sections: Mark each section as you remove it so you know which end goes down. Reinstalling them backward will cause leaks and poor water flow.

When to Call a Professional

Call a licensed well contractor if the pump is deeper than 100 feet, if the pipe and pump won't move after gentle pulling, if you see cracks in the well casing, or if you are not confident working at height or with heavy equipment. A contractor has a truck-mounted winch and can pull a deep pump safely in an hour or two. The cost is usually $300 to $800 depending on depth and location, which is less than the cost of repairing a cracked casing or broken pipe.

You should also call a contractor if you need to replace the pump and are unsure about sizing or electrical connections. Submersible pumps come in different horsepower ratings and voltage configurations, and installing the wrong one can damage your system or create a safety hazard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I remove the pump myself if I've never done it before?

Yes, if your well is shallow (under 50 feet) and you follow the steps carefully. The job is straightforward: turn off power, drain the system, disconnect the wire, loosen the top fitting, and pull the pipe up. Take your time and don't force anything. If you get stuck, stop and call a contractor.

How do I know if my pump is stuck or just heavy?

A heavy pump requires steady, firm pulling but will move. A stuck pump resists even with both hands pulling hard. If you've pulled for 30 seconds and nothing is moving, stop. Forcing it risks cracking the well casing or breaking the pipe.

What do I do if water sprays out when I disconnect the pipe?

You didn't open a faucet inside the house to drain the system. Stop, go open a faucet, and let the water drain. Then come back and disconnect the pipe. This prevents pressure buildup and flooding.

Can I leave the pump out of the well while I wait for a replacement?

Yes, but only for a few days. The longer the well sits empty, the more sediment and debris can settle into the casing. Cover the well casing with a clean board or cap to keep dirt and animals out while you wait for the new pump to arrive.

Do I need to refill the well after I pull the pump?

No. The well refills naturally from groundwater. Once you reinstall the pump and turn the power back on, the pump will draw water from the well and fill your house lines. You may hear air in the lines for a few minutes as the system reprimes — this is normal.