Removing a submersible pump requires turning off power, disconnecting the electrical cable, and pulling the pump and drop pipe out of the well casing using a winch or hoist—a job that usually takes two people and several hours.
A submersible pump sits at the bottom of your well and pushes water up through a pipe to your house. To remove it, you stop the power, disconnect the wiring, unbolt the pump from the drop pipe if needed, and haul the entire assembly out of the ground. The hardest part is not the disconnection—it is having enough pulling power and a safe way to support the weight as it comes up. Most homeowners hire a well contractor for this work because the pump can weigh 50 to 150 pounds, the drop pipe adds more weight, and a mistake can damage the well casing or injure someone.
If you decide to do this yourself, you need a winch rated for at least twice the total weight you are pulling, a sturdy frame or tripod to mount it on, proper electrical safety precautions, and a helper. The process takes three to five hours depending on how deep your well is and how stuck the pump has become.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off power at the breaker and test the circuit to confirm it is dead before touching any wiring.
- Disconnect the electrical cable from the pump by unbolting the terminal box, and tape the wire ends so they do not touch metal or water.
- Unbolt the pump from the drop pipe if they are connected separately, or pull them out as one assembly if they are glued or welded together.
- Use a winch mounted on a sturdy tripod or frame to pull the pump and pipe straight up without twisting, stopping every 10 to 15 feet to rest and check for snags.
- Have a second person guide the pipe as it comes out and watch for the pump to clear the well casing so it does not scrape the sides.
Turn Off Power and Test for Live Current
The first step is to cut power to the pump at your electrical panel. Find the breaker labeled for the well pump—it is usually a double-pole breaker rated between 15 and 30 amps. Switch it to the OFF position and lock or tape the breaker handle so no one can turn it back on while you are working.
After the breaker is off, use a non-contact voltage tester or a multimeter to confirm there is no current running to the pump. Touch the tester to the wires at the pump's terminal box or where the cable enters the well head. If the tester beeps or lights up, the circuit is still live—do not proceed. Check the breaker again or call an electrician. If the tester shows no current, the circuit is safe to work on.
Leave the breaker off for the entire removal process. If you are working during daylight and need to turn on other circuits, use a helper to stand at the panel and make sure the well pump breaker stays off.
Disconnect the Electrical Cable from the Pump
The electrical cable runs from your house down into the well and connects to the pump at a terminal box or directly to the pump motor. At the top of the well, the cable enters a weatherproof fitting called a well head or sanitary seal. You do not need to disconnect anything there—the cable will come up with the pump.
At the pump end, the cable is bolted to a terminal box on top of the motor. Use a wrench to unbolt these connections—usually two or three bolts holding the cable lugs to the terminals. Once the bolts are loose, carefully pull the cable away from the pump. If the cable is stuck, gently work it back and forth rather than yanking it.
After the cable is free, tape the exposed wire ends with electrical tape so they cannot touch metal or water as the pump comes up. Coil the cable loosely on the ground near the well so it does not get tangled or stepped on. If the cable is very long, have your helper hold it and feed it out slowly as the pump rises.
Unbolt or Separate the Pump from the Drop Pipe
The drop pipe is the rigid pipe that runs from the pump to the surface and carries water up to your house. In some installations, the pump is bolted to the top of the drop pipe with a coupling or flange. In others, the pump and pipe are glued together with PVC cement or welded if they are steel, and they come out as one piece.
If there are bolts, use a wrench to remove them. Usually there are four bolts around a circular flange. Once they are loose, the pump and pipe can separate. If the connection is glued or welded, do not try to force them apart—pull them out together. Trying to separate them can crack the pipe or damage the pump.
Before you start pulling, measure the total length of the pipe and pump assembly. If your well is 100 feet deep, the pipe alone will be about 100 feet long plus another 3 to 4 feet for the pump. Knowing the total length helps you plan where to lay it on the ground as it comes out and tells you how much cable you need to feed out.
Set Up a Winch and Pulling Frame
You cannot pull a 100-foot pipe and a 100-pound pump by hand. You need a winch—a motorized or hand-crank device that winds a cable onto a drum and pulls with steady force. Rent a portable electric winch rated for at least 500 pounds from a tool rental shop. Hand-crank winches are cheaper but much slower and harder to control on a long pull.
Mount the winch on a sturdy frame or tripod positioned directly above the well. A straightforward frame can be made from 4-by-4 lumber bolted together in an A-shape, or you can rent a portable well puller tripod designed for this job. The frame must be stable enough that it does not tip or shift as you pull. Anchor it to the ground with stakes or sandbags if needed.
Attach a cable or rope from the winch to the top of the pump or to a lifting lug if the pump has one. Use a shackle or heavy-duty hook rated for at least twice the weight you are pulling. Do not use a regular rope—use steel cable or a synthetic lifting strap rated for the load. Test the setup by pulling gently before you commit to a full lift.
Pull the Pump and Pipe Out of the Well
Start the winch slowly and pull the pump and pipe straight up. Watch for the cable to stay vertical and centered over the well opening. If it angles to one side, the pipe can scrape the inside of the well casing and get stuck or damaged. Your helper should stand to the side and guide the pipe as it comes up, keeping it aligned with the well opening.
Pull in short increments—raise the assembly 10 to 15 feet, then stop and rest for a minute. Check that the cable is not twisted, that the pipe is not snagged on anything, and that the winch is still find. If you feel resistance or hear grinding sounds, stop and investigate before continuing. Pushing through a snag can break the pipe or damage the well.
As the pump clears the well casing, have your helper watch to make sure it does not scrape the sides. Once the pump is out and resting on the ground, continue pulling the drop pipe until the entire length is out of the well. Coil the pipe on the ground in a safe location where it will not trip anyone or roll into the well.
Inspect the Pump and Prepare for Replacement or Storage
Once the pump is out, inspect it for damage. Look for cracks in the housing, corrosion on the motor, or damage to the intake screen at the bottom. If the pump is old or damaged, it is time to replace it. If it is still in good condition and you are removing it for maintenance or repair, clean off any sediment or debris and store it in a dry location.
Check the drop pipe for cracks, dents, or corrosion. If the pipe is damaged, it should be replaced when you install a new pump. If it is in good condition, you can reuse it. Flush the inside of the pipe with clean water to remove sediment before storing it.
Before you install a new pump, have the well inspected by a professional to check the water level, the condition of the casing, and whether there is sediment buildup at the bottom. A well contractor can do this quickly and tell you if the well needs cleaning before the new pump goes in.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove the pump myself if my well is very deep?
Depth makes the job harder but not impossible if you have the right equipment. A 200-foot well means 200 feet of heavy pipe to pull. Rent an electric winch rated for at least 1,000 pounds and make sure your frame is anchored securely. Deep wells are more likely to have the pump stuck, so be prepared to stop and work it loose gently rather than forcing it.
What should I do if the pump gets stuck halfway up?
Stop pulling when ready. The pump is probably snagged on the well casing or the pipe is bent. Try gently rocking the winch—pull a little, release a little—to work it loose. Do not yank hard or you will break the pipe. If it will not budge after several minutes of gentle rocking, call a well contractor. Forcing a stuck pump can damage the well.
Do I need to drain the well before removing the pump?
No. The pump is sealed and water will not pour out as it comes up. However, water will drip from the pipe and pump as they come out of the ground, so have buckets or a tarp ready to catch it. The water inside the pipe can be dirty, so do not let it splash on your clothes or skin.
How long does it take to remove a submersible pump?
A shallow well (50 feet or less) usually takes two to three hours. A deeper well (100 to 200 feet) takes four to six hours. Most of the time is spent pulling slowly and carefully to avoid snagging. If the pump is stuck, add another hour or two for working it loose.
What happens to the well while the pump is out?
The well is not damaged by having the pump out, but you will have no water until a new pump is installed. Plan the removal for a time when you can go without water for at least a day. If you need water during the removal, fill bathtubs or containers before you start.