The basic steps to pull a pump from the well
Removing a well pump from the casing requires turning off the power, disconnecting the electrical wires and water lines, unbolting the pump head from the casing, and then pulling the pump and drop pipe up and out of the well. The whole job usually takes two to four hours for a submersible pump, though it can take longer if the pump is stuck or the well is very deep. You will need a pipe wrench, adjustable wrench, electrical tape, a bucket, and ideally a helper to manage the weight as the pump comes up.
The most important step is safety: a well pump is heavy, the casing opening is narrow, and the pipe can drop back into the well if you lose your grip. Never work alone, never rush, and never skip the power disconnection. If you are uncomfortable at any point, stop and call a licensed well contractor—pulling a pump incorrectly can damage the casing or leave you injured.
Key Takeaways
- Always turn off power at the breaker and test the outlet with a voltage tester before touching any wires.
- Disconnect the pressure tank and electrical wires first, then unbolt the pump head from the top of the casing.
- Pull the pump and drop pipe straight up slowly and steadily, keeping the pipe centered in the casing to avoid jamming.
- If the pump will not budge after ten minutes of steady pulling, stop and call a contractor rather than risk damaging the casing or the pump.
- Have a helper hold the casing steady and guide the pipe as it comes out, and keep a bucket underneath to catch water that drains from the pipe.
Turn off power and disconnect the electrical supply
Go to your home's electrical panel and switch off the breaker that controls the well pump. The breaker is usually labeled "Well Pump" or "Water Pump" and is typically a 20 to 30 amp double-pole breaker. Flip it to the off position and leave it off for the entire removal process.
Once the breaker is off, test the outlet at the pump with a non-contact voltage tester to confirm there is no power running to it. Hold the tester near the outlet or the pump's electrical connection—if it beeps or lights up, the power is still on and you should not proceed. If it does not beep, the power is safely off. Now locate the electrical wires running from the pump up through the casing or along the outside of the well. These wires are usually wrapped in conduit or taped together. Disconnect them at the junction box or terminal box where they meet the house wiring, and wrap the house-side wires with electrical tape so they cannot accidentally touch anything metal.
Disconnect the water lines and pressure tank
Locate the water line that runs from the top of the pump head down into the casing. This is usually a 1-inch or 1.25-inch pipe. Use a pipe wrench to loosen the fitting where this line connects to the pump head, turning counterclockwise. Once it is loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew it completely and set it aside. Water will drain out—this is normal. Have a bucket ready to catch it.
Next, find the pressure tank, which is usually a metal tank sitting near the pump or inside the house. It will have a water line running to it from the pump. Loosen and disconnect this line as well using your pipe wrench. If the tank has a check valve (a one-way valve that prevents backflow), you may need to loosen it separately. Once all water lines are disconnected, you are ready to unbolt the pump head.
Unbolt the pump head from the casing
The pump head is bolted to a flange at the top of the well casing. Look at the top of the casing and you will see four or six bolts holding a metal plate (the flange) in place. These bolts are usually 0.5 inch or 0.625 inch in diameter. Use an adjustable wrench or socket wrench to loosen each bolt, turning counterclockwise. Loosen all of them a little bit at a time in a crisscross pattern (like loosening a car wheel) rather than removing one completely before moving to the next. This prevents the flange from tilting and jamming.
Once all bolts are loose, remove them completely and set them in a safe place where you will not lose them. Carefully lift the flange and pump head straight up a few inches. You may need to wiggle it gently side to side, but do not force it. If it is stuck, spray the bolts with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes before trying again. Once the flange comes free, set it aside on a clean surface.
Pull the pump and drop pipe out of the well
The pump is now connected only to the drop pipe—the long pipe that runs down into the well and carries water up to the pump. You and your helper will now pull this pipe straight up and out of the casing. This is the most physically demanding part of the job. Stand on opposite sides of the casing opening, grip the drop pipe firmly with both hands, and pull upward in a slow, steady motion. Do not jerk or yank. Pull for 10 to 15 seconds, then rest for 10 seconds, then pull again. This rhythm is easier on your back and gives the pipe time to slide up without jamming.
As the pipe comes up, your helper should guide it to keep it centered in the casing opening. If the pipe starts to tilt or bind, stop when ready and wiggle it gently side to side to free it, then resume pulling. Keep a bucket underneath the casing opening because water will drain from the pipe as it comes out. Depending on the depth of your well, this process can take 20 to 45 minutes. If after 10 minutes of steady pulling the pump has not moved at all, stop. Do not force it. Call a well contractor with a pump puller—trying to force a stuck pump can crack the casing or snap the pipe.
What to do if the pump is stuck
A pump can become stuck for several reasons: mineral deposits have built up on the pipe, the pump has settled and is resting against the casing wall, or the drop pipe has corroded and expanded. If you pull steadily for 10 minutes and the pump does not move, stop and try these steps before giving up.
First, spray penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) around the top of the drop pipe where it enters the casing. Let it soak for 30 minutes to an hour. Then try pulling again with a slow, steady motion. If that does not work, try rocking the pipe gently side to side while pulling upward—this can break the seal of mineral deposits. If the pump still will not budge after another 10 minutes, do not continue. A stuck pump usually requires a professional pump puller, which is a mechanical device that grips the pipe and applies steady, controlled force. Trying to force it yourself risks cracking the casing, which is an expensive repair.
Inspect the casing and prepare for a new pump
Once the pump is out, look down into the casing with a flashlight. You should see water at the bottom—this is the water table. Check the inside of the casing for cracks, rust, or debris. If you see cracks or significant rust, the casing may need repair or replacement before you install a new pump. If the casing looks sound, use a wet/dry vacuum or a submersible pump to remove any debris or sediment from the bottom of the casing.
Before installing a new pump, measure the depth of the well from the top of the casing to the water surface. You can do this by tying a weight to a string, lowering it until it hits water, and measuring the string. This measurement tells you what length of drop pipe and what type of pump you need. Write down this depth, the casing diameter, and the flow rate of your old pump (usually printed on a nameplate on the pump head). You will need this information when you order a replacement pump.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove the pump myself or do I need a contractor?
You can remove the pump yourself if you are comfortable with basic plumbing and have a helper. The job is straightforward but physically demanding and requires careful attention to safety. If the pump is stuck, if you are unsure about any step, or if you are uncomfortable working at heights or with electrical connections, hire a contractor. The cost of a professional removal is usually $200 to $500 and is worth it to avoid injury or damage to the well.
How long does it take to remove a pump?
A straightforward removal usually takes two to four hours from start to finish. If the pump is stuck, if the well is very deep (over 100 feet), or if you are working slowly and carefully for the first time, it can take six to eight hours. Plan for a full day and do not rush.
What happens to the water in the well while the pump is out?
The water stays in the well. The casing is open at the top, so water will drain from the drop pipe as you pull it out, but the groundwater below remains. Once you install a new pump, it will draw water from the same source. Do not leave the casing open for more than a few hours, as debris and insects can fall in.
Do I need to drain the pressure tank before removing the pump?
Yes. Before you disconnect the water lines, turn off the breaker and open a faucet in your house to release the pressure in the tank and lines. This prevents water from spraying out when you disconnect the pipes and makes the job safer and cleaner.
What if water is leaking from the electrical conduit?
This means water has entered the conduit, which is a sign of a problem with the pump seal or the conduit itself. Do not touch the electrical wires or connections. Turn off the breaker, let the conduit dry completely, and call a contractor to inspect the pump and conduit before you reinstall anything.