Sand in your well water means the pump is drawing from the bottom of the aquifer

When your well pump starts pulling sand or sediment into the water line, it is pulling from too close to the bottom of the well. Sand gets into your pipes, clogs fixtures, damages the pump itself, and makes the water unusable. The fix depends on why the water table dropped or why the pump intake sank lower than it should be.

The most common cause is a dropping water table—the aquifer level falls during drought or heavy use, and the pump intake (the screened pipe at the bottom) ends up sitting in sediment instead of clear water. A second cause is pump settling—the pump assembly sinks over time because the well casing shifts or the gravel around it compacts. A third is a damaged or clogged intake screen that lets sand through even when water level is adequate.

Key Takeaways

  • Sand in well water usually means the pump intake is sitting too low in the well, either because the water table dropped or the pump assembly settled.
  • The first step is to measure the water level inside the well and compare it to where the pump intake sits; if the intake is within a few feet of the bottom, it needs to be raised.
  • Raising the pump intake requires pulling the entire pump assembly out of the well, which is a job for a well contractor unless you have experience with pressure tanks and electrical disconnects.
  • If the water table is permanently lower, you may need to deepen the well or accept that you can only pump a certain number of gallons per day without drawing sand.
  • A sediment filter on the pressure tank can catch some sand, but it will not solve the root problem and will need frequent replacement.

Measure the water level and pump intake depth

Before you call a contractor, you need to know whether the pump intake is actually the problem. Measure the static water level—the depth of water when the pump is off and has been off for several hours. Tie a weight to a string, lower it into the well until it hits water, and mark the string. The distance from the top of the well to that mark is your water level.

Next, find out where the pump intake sits. This information is usually on the well completion report or the original well drilling paperwork. If you do not have it, a well contractor can measure it by lowering a camera or sounding line down the well. If the intake is within 3 to 5 feet of the bottom of the well, and your static water level is close to the bottom, sand will be pulled in during heavy pumping.

Write down both numbers and the date. If you measure again in a few months and the water level has dropped further, you are dealing with a declining aquifer, not just pump settling.

Raise the pump intake if the water table is stable

If the water level has stayed roughly the same but the pump is still pulling sand, the pump assembly has likely settled. The fix is to pull the pump out and reset it higher in the well. This is not a DIY job unless you have experience with well systems—you will be working with electrical connections, a pressurized tank, and heavy equipment.

A well contractor will disconnect the power, drain the pressure tank, unbolt the pump from the casing, and pull the entire assembly out using a tripod or winch. They will then lower it back down so the intake sits at least 10 to 15 feet above the bottom of the well, or higher if the water level is low. The whole job takes a few hours and costs between $800 and $2,000 depending on well depth and how much of the pipe needs to be replaced.

Once the pump is reset, run water for 10 to 15 minutes and check for sand. If sand still appears, the intake screen may be damaged, or the water table may be lower than your initial measurement suggested.

Deepen the well if the water table has dropped permanently

If your water level has fallen 10 feet or more over the past few years, raising the pump intake is only a temporary fix. The aquifer itself is lower, and you will eventually face the same problem again. At that point, you have two choices: deepen the well or accept lower daily pumping capacity.

Well deepening involves drilling further down into the same borehole to reach water at a greater depth. This works only if water exists below your current well bottom—a hydrogeologist or well contractor can advise whether it is likely in your area. Deepening costs $1,500 to $3,000 or more, depending on how much deeper you need to go and the geology of your area. It is not always successful, especially in areas with chronic drought.

If deepening is not practical or too expensive, you can limit your daily pumping. Many homeowners in low-water areas run their pump only at night or early morning when demand is lowest, allowing the aquifer to recharge between uses. You may also need to install a larger pressure tank to store more water and reduce how often the pump cycles.

Replace or repair a damaged intake screen

If the water level is adequate and the pump intake is at the right height, but sand is still coming through, the intake screen itself may be torn or corroded. The screen is a mesh or perforated pipe at the bottom of the well that keeps sand out while letting water in. Over 20 or 30 years, it can develop holes or cracks.

Replacing the screen requires pulling the pump and the drop pipe (the pipe running down to the intake). A contractor will remove the old screen, install a new one, and reassemble the system. This costs $500 to $1,500 depending on well depth. If the screen is straightforward clogged with sediment rather than damaged, it can sometimes be cleaned by reverse-flushing, which is cheaper but less reliable.

Install a sediment filter as a temporary measure

A sediment filter on the pressure tank side of your system can catch sand before it reaches your fixtures and appliances. These are cartridge filters that trap particles and need to be replaced every few months if sand is heavy. A sediment filter does not solve the underlying problem—the pump is still pulling sand from the aquifer—but it protects your plumbing while you arrange a permanent fix.

Sediment filters cost $100 to $300 to install and $20 to $50 per replacement cartridge. If you are replacing cartridges more than once a month, the filter is working hard and you should prioritize raising the pump intake or deepening the well. Some filters are washable and reusable, which saves money over time but requires regular maintenance.

When to call a well contractor

Call a contractor if you see sand in your water, if your water output has dropped noticeably, or if you are unsure where the pump intake sits. A well contractor can measure water level, inspect the intake screen, and advise whether raising the pump, deepening the well, or installing a filter is the right move for your situation. Many offer a free initial inspection.

If you live in an area with a lot of wells, your county extension office or health department may have a list of licensed well contractors. Ask for references and get a written estimate before work begins. A reputable contractor will explain what they found and why they are recommending a particular fix.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I raise the pump myself?

Not safely unless you have experience with well systems. You will need to disconnect electrical power, drain a pressurized tank, and handle heavy pipe and equipment. A mistake can damage the pump, contaminate the well, or cause injury. Hire a licensed well contractor.

How much does it cost to raise a pump intake?

Raising the pump intake typically costs $800 to $2,000, depending on well depth and how much pipe needs adjustment. Get a written estimate from the contractor before they start work.

Will a whole-house sediment filter stop the sand problem?

A sediment filter will catch sand before it reaches your taps, but it does not stop the pump from pulling sand from the aquifer. You will need to replace the filter cartridge frequently, and the underlying problem—the pump intake being too low—remains unsolved.

What if I cannot afford to deepen the well?

Raise the pump intake first; it is cheaper and often solves the problem if the water table is stable. If the water table is dropping, you can limit pumping to certain hours, install a larger pressure tank to reduce pump cycling, or use a sediment filter while you save for deepening.

How do I know if my water table is dropping?

Measure the static water level (with the pump off) every few months and write down the date and depth. If the level drops more than a few feet per year, the aquifer is declining. Share these measurements with a well contractor to help them advise on your options.