Removing a water pump requires turning off power, draining the system, and unbolting the pump from its mounting—a job that takes two to four hours and is easier with a helper

A water pump removal is straightforward if you follow the steps in order and do not skip the safety steps. The pump sits on top of the well casing or inside a pressure tank, held down by bolts. Before you touch anything, you must cut power to the pump at the breaker, drain all water from the lines, and unbolt the pump from its base. The hardest part is usually breaking loose old bolts that have sat for years—not the removal itself.

This guide covers submersible pumps (the kind that sit inside the well) and jet pumps (the kind that sit above ground next to a pressure tank). The steps differ slightly, but the safety rules are the same for both.

Key Takeaways

  • Always turn off power at the breaker before touching any pump, and wait five minutes for residual charge to drain from the motor.
  • Open the drain valve on the pressure tank or lowest point in the system to empty all water before you unbolt anything.
  • Take a photo of the electrical connections before you disconnect them, so you know where each wire goes when you reinstall.
  • Use penetrating oil on bolts that are stuck, wait 15 to 20 minutes, then use a socket wrench rather than an adjustable wrench to avoid stripping the bolt head.
  • For submersible pumps, you will need to pull the pump and drop pipe out of the well casing—a two-person job that requires a rope or cable rated for the pump weight.

Turn Off Power and Wait

Go to your electrical panel and flip the breaker that controls the pump to the OFF position. The breaker is usually labeled "Well Pump" or "Water Pump." If it is not labeled, turn off the main breaker instead—you can turn it back on once the pump is out.

Wait five minutes. Even though the breaker is off, the motor may hold a small electrical charge. Waiting gives that charge time to dissipate so you do not get shocked when you touch the motor housing or wiring.

Test the pump by pressing the power button on the pressure switch (if your system has one) or by trying to turn the pump shaft by hand. If the pump does not move and nothing happens, the power is off.

Drain the System

Locate the drain valve on your pressure tank or at the lowest point in your water lines. It looks like a small faucet or a valve with a handle. Open it fully and let all the water run out into a bucket or onto the ground. This step is critical—if you do not drain the system, water will pour out when you unbolt the pump, and you will lose pressure in the tank.

If your system has a check valve (a one-way valve that prevents backflow), you may need to open a faucet inside the house to let air into the lines so water drains completely. Open the highest faucet in your home and leave it open while the drain valve runs.

Once no more water comes out, close the drain valve and the faucet you opened inside.

Disconnect the Electrical Wires

Before you touch any wires, take a clear photo of how the wires are connected to the pump motor. Use your phone camera and make sure the photo is sharp enough that you can read any labels on the wires. This photo is your map for putting the pump back together.

Look for a wire nut (a plastic cap that twists onto the wires) or a terminal block (a plastic or metal box with screws that hold the wires). If there is a wire nut, twist it counterclockwise to loosen it and pull the wires apart gently. If there is a terminal block, use a screwdriver to loosen the screws that hold each wire, then pull the wires free.

If the pump has a plug that goes into an outlet, straightforward pull the plug straight out. Do not yank on the cord—grab the plug itself.

Remove the Bolts Holding the Pump

Most pumps are held down by four bolts that go through the pump base and into the mounting surface (usually the top of the pressure tank or a concrete pad). Use a socket wrench that fits the bolt head snugly—do not use an adjustable wrench, which can slip and strip the bolt.

If the bolts turn easily, remove them one at a time and set them aside in a safe place. If a bolt is stuck, spray it with penetrating oil (such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench) and wait 15 to 20 minutes. The oil soaks into the rust and makes the bolt easier to turn. Then try again with the socket wrench.

Once all four bolts are loose, remove them completely and set them aside. Do not let them fall into the well or pressure tank.

Lift the Pump Away (Jet Pump)

If you have a jet pump (the kind that sits on top of a pressure tank), the pump should now be free to lift. Have a helper support one side of the pump while you support the other. Lift straight up slowly and steadily. Do not twist or rock the pump side to side, because the inlet and outlet pipes may still be connected and you could crack them.

Once the pump is clear of the mounting surface, set it down gently on a workbench or the ground. If the inlet and outlet pipes are still connected, you can disconnect them now using an adjustable wrench to hold the fitting while you turn the pipe counterclockwise.

Pull the Pump from the Well (Submersible Pump)

Submersible pumps sit inside the well casing, so you must pull the pump and the drop pipe (the pipe that carries water from the pump to the surface) straight up and out of the well. This is a two-person job and requires equipment.

Attach a rope or cable to the pump discharge head (the top of the pump) using a knot that will not slip, such as a bowline. The rope or cable must be rated to hold at least twice the weight of the pump and pipe. A typical submersible pump weighs 50 to 100 pounds, and the drop pipe adds another 50 to 150 pounds depending on how deep the well is.

One person pulls the rope hand-over-hand or uses a come-along (a mechanical hand-crank puller) while the other person guides the pump and pipe as they come up. Pull slowly and steadily. Stop every few feet and rest. Do not jerk or yank, because the pipe can kink or the pump can slip out of the rope.

As the pump comes out, the drop pipe will come with it. Once the pump clears the well casing, lay both the pump and pipe on the ground. If the pipe is still connected to the pump, you can disconnect it now by unbolting the coupling that holds them together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a special tool to remove the pump?

A socket wrench set and an adjustable wrench are the only tools most people need. If bolts are stuck, penetrating oil and patience work better than force. For submersible pumps, you need a rope or cable rated for the weight and a safe place to anchor it while you pull.

What if I cannot get a bolt to turn?

Spray it with penetrating oil and wait 20 minutes. If it still will not turn, spray it again and wait another 20 minutes. Do not use a hammer to hit the wrench—you will strip the bolt or break the wrench. If the bolt breaks, you may need to drill it out, which is a job for a plumber.

Can I remove the pump myself or do I need a plumber?

If you are comfortable with basic tools and have a helper, you can remove most jet pumps yourself. Submersible pumps require more care because you must pull them from the well without damaging the drop pipe. If you are unsure, a plumber can remove it in an hour or two.

What should I do with the old pump?

Do not throw it in the trash. Take it to a scrap metal recycler or an appliance recycling center. Many accept pumps for free because the motor contains copper and other metals that have value. Call ahead to confirm they take pumps.

How do I know if the pump is completely drained before I remove it?

Open the drain valve and let water run until nothing comes out, then wait five minutes and check again. If no water drips from the valve, the system is empty. You can also loosen one bolt slightly to see if water leaks out—if it does, tighten the bolt and drain more.