The difference between a dry well and a broken pump

A dry well and a failing pump produce the same symptom—no water—but require completely different fixes. A dry well means the water table has dropped below your well's intake pipe, usually because of drought, over-pumping, or seasonal changes. A failing pump means the equipment that pulls water up is broken or clogged, even though water is still there. The fastest way to tell which one you have is to listen and watch for pressure, then check your pressure tank gauge.

If your pressure tank gauge reads zero and stays at zero even after you turn the pump on, your pump is not running at all—either it has lost power, the switch is broken, or the motor itself has failed. If the gauge climbs to normal pressure (usually 40 to 60 pounds per square inch) but water still will not come out of your taps, your pump is running but not drawing water, which points to a dry well or a clogged intake line. If you hear the pump motor running but the pressure gauge does not move, the pump is spinning but not moving water—a sign of internal pump failure or a broken check valve.

Key Takeaways

  • A pressure tank gauge that stays at zero means your pump is not running; a gauge that climbs but produces no water means your well may be dry.
  • Listen for the pump motor—if it runs but pressure does not build, the pump itself is broken; if it does not run at all, check the power and the pressure switch.
  • A dry well usually happens during drought or after heavy use, and water may return on its own; a broken pump will not fix itself.
  • You can test your well depth with a weighted string before calling a professional, which saves money if the problem is straightforward low water level.
  • If your pump is drawing air instead of water, you will hear a sputtering sound and see air bubbles in your taps—this points to a dry well or a cracked intake line.

Check your pressure tank gauge and listen to the pump

Walk to your pressure tank—usually a metal cylinder in your basement, crawlspace, or pump house—and look at the gauge on the side. The needle should rest between 20 and 60 pounds per square inch when the pump is off. Turn on a tap inside your house. If water comes out normally, you do not have a problem. If no water comes out, turn the tap off and listen to the pump.

If you hear the pump motor running (a humming or buzzing sound), the pump is trying to work. Watch the pressure gauge while the motor runs. If the needle climbs toward 40 or 60 psi, the pump is moving water—but if no water reaches your taps, the problem is likely a clogged intake line or a check valve stuck closed, not a dry well or a dead pump. If the needle does not move at all while the motor runs, the pump is spinning but not pulling water, which usually means the pump impeller is broken or the intake line is drawing air.

If you do not hear the pump motor at all when you turn on a tap, the pump is not running. Check that the circuit breaker for the pump has not tripped, and look for a reset button on the pressure switch (a small box near the tank with two wires). If the breaker is on and the switch has no reset button, the pressure switch itself may be broken, or the pump motor may have burned out.

Test your well depth with a weighted string

Before you call a well contractor, you can measure how far the water level has dropped. Tie a small weight (a fishing sinker, a nut, or a washer) to the end of a long string or rope. Lower the weight slowly into your well until you feel it hit water—the string will go slack for a moment. Mark that spot on the string with a pen or tape, then pull the string back up and measure the distance from the top of the well to your mark.

Write down this depth. If you have records from when your well was drilled or from a previous service call, compare the two numbers. If the water level has dropped only a few feet and you are in a drought area or it is late summer, your well may refill on its own when rain returns. If the water level has dropped 20 feet or more, or if it was already low the last time it was measured, your well may be permanently depleted or you may be pumping faster than the aquifer can recharge.

If you cannot reach water with your string—meaning the string runs out before hitting bottom—your well is dry. Most residential wells are 25 to 300 feet deep, so if your string is shorter than that, you will need a professional to measure the true depth. A well contractor can also run a camera down the well to check for a clogged intake screen or a collapsed pipe, which can look like a dry well but is actually a mechanical problem.

Listen for sputtering and air bubbles

Turn on a tap and listen closely. If you hear a sputtering or chattering sound—like the pump is gasping—and you see air bubbles mixed with the water, your pump is drawing air instead of water. This happens when the water level drops below the intake pipe, when the intake line has cracked, or when the foot valve (a one-way valve at the bottom of the intake line) has failed.

Sputtering usually means a dry well, because the pump is sucking air at the end of the intake line. However, if the sputtering started suddenly and your well was fine yesterday, check whether someone else in your house turned on a tap or started a washing machine at the same time—sometimes a sudden demand for water can pull the level down temporarily, especially in a shallow well. Turn off all the taps and wait 30 minutes, then try again.

If the sputtering continues and you know your well has been producing water steadily until now, the problem is almost certainly a dry well. If the sputtering is new but your well depth test showed water still present, the intake line may be cracked or the foot valve may be stuck, both of which require a professional to fix.

Check the pressure switch and electrical connections

If the pump motor is not running at all, the pressure switch may be stuck or the power may be cut off. The pressure switch is a small box mounted near the pressure tank, usually with two wires running to it. It turns the pump on when pressure drops below a set point (usually 20 to 30 psi) and turns it off when pressure reaches the upper limit (usually 50 to 60 psi).

Look for a reset button on the pressure switch—it is usually a small red or black button on the face of the box. Press it once and listen for the pump to start. If the pump starts and pressure builds, the switch may have tripped because of a power surge or a temporary fault. If the pump does not start, or if it starts and when ready shuts off, the switch is broken and needs to be replaced.

Check the circuit breaker in your electrical panel for the pump circuit. If the breaker is in the "off" position or in the middle (tripped), flip it fully off and then back on. If it trips again when ready, there is a short circuit in the pump wiring or the pump motor itself, and you will need a professional electrician or well contractor. If the breaker stays on and the pump runs, you have restored power—but if the pump still does not produce water, the problem is a dry well or a failed pump.

When to call a well contractor

Call a professional if the pump motor runs but produces no water and your well depth test showed water is still present. This points to a clogged intake line, a broken check valve, or internal pump failure—all of which require tools and informed to fix. A contractor can pull the pump and inspect the intake line, replace the check valve, or rebuild the pump if it is salvageable.

Also call a professional if your well is dry and you want to know whether it is a temporary condition or permanent. A contractor can measure the true depth of your well, check the water level over time, and advise you on whether to wait for the water table to recover or to have the well deepened or a new well drilled. In some areas, deepening an existing well is cheaper than drilling a new one; in others, it is not possible because of the geology.

If you are in a drought area and your well has gone dry, contact your local water authority or county extension office. They can tell you whether other wells in your area are also dry, which helps you understand whether the problem is temporary drought or a permanent change in the water table. Some areas have programs to help homeowners with dry wells, and knowing the regional situation helps you plan your next step.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a well refill after it goes dry?

Yes, if the well went dry because of drought or seasonal low water table. Once rain returns and the water table rises, water will return to the well. However, if the well was over-pumped or if the aquifer is being depleted faster than it recharges, the water may not return, or it may take years. A well contractor can measure the water level over several months to tell you whether recovery is happening.

What does it mean if the pump runs but the pressure gauge does not move?

The pump is spinning but not moving water. This usually means the pump impeller (the spinning part inside) is broken, the intake line is drawing air, or the check valve is stuck closed. You will need a professional to open the pump and inspect these parts. Do not run the pump continuously while it is not producing water, because it can overheat and burn out the motor.

How much does it cost to fix a dry well?

If the well is temporarily dry due to drought, there is nothing to fix—you wait for water to return. If the well is permanently depleted, you can have it deepened (usually $1,500 to $3,000) or drill a new well (usually $3,000 to $15,000, depending on depth and location). Costs vary widely by region and geology, so get quotes from local contractors.

Can I fix a broken pump myself?

Small repairs like replacing a pressure switch or resetting a breaker are safe for a homeowner. Opening the pump itself or replacing the intake line requires special tools and knowledge of your well's configuration. If you are not confident, hire a professional—a mistake can damage the pump further or contaminate your well.

What if my well has water but the pump still will not produce it?

The intake line may be clogged, the foot valve may be stuck, or the pump may have lost its prime (the water that fills the pump housing). A contractor can check these parts. If the pump has lost prime, it may be possible to refill it and restart it, which is cheaper than replacing the pump.