Start with the simplest tests you can do yourself
You can check whether your well pump is working without calling a technician. The most basic test is to turn on a faucet and watch the water pressure. A healthy pump delivers steady pressure that does not drop when you open multiple taps at once. If pressure falls sharply when you run the shower and kitchen sink together, or if water sputters and stops, the pump is struggling.
Listen to the pump itself. A working pump makes a humming sound when it runs and stops when the tank fills. If you hear grinding, squealing, or a high-pitched whine, the pump is wearing out. If the pump runs constantly without shutting off, the tank or check valve is likely leaking and the pump cannot build pressure.
Check the pressure tank by tapping it with your knuckles. It should feel solid and not hollow or dented. A dented tank cannot hold air properly and will cause pressure to drop. Look around the base and connections for water pooling or wet soil — leaks at the pump itself or the tank mean the system needs repair.
Key Takeaways
- Water pressure that drops when you use multiple fixtures at once, or sputters and stops, signals a pump that is losing power or cannot keep up with demand.
- A pump that runs constantly without shutting off usually means the pressure tank or check valve is leaking and cannot hold pressure.
- Grinding, squealing, or high-pitched whining sounds mean the pump's internal parts are wearing out and the system will need replacement soon.
- A pressure gauge test, which you can read yourself if the gauge is visible on the tank, shows whether the pump is building pressure to the correct range for your system.
- If the pump is more than 15 years old and showing any of these signs, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair.
Read the pressure gauge if your tank has one
Most well tanks have a pressure gauge mounted on the side or top. The gauge shows the air pressure inside the tank in pounds per square inch (PSI). A typical household system runs between 40 and 60 PSI, though your system may be set differently — check the label on the tank or pressure switch to see your target range.
Turn on a faucet and watch the gauge. The pressure should drop as water leaves the tank. When the pressure falls to the lower number in your range (usually around 40 PSI), the pump should kick on automatically. The pressure should then rise steadily until it reaches the upper number (usually around 60 PSI), at which point the pump shuts off. If the pump does not turn on when pressure drops, or if it does not shut off when pressure rises, the pressure switch is faulty and needs replacement.
If the gauge needle does not move at all when you run water, the gauge itself may be broken, or the pump is not running. If the gauge shows pressure but it is far below your target range and stays low even after the pump runs, the pump is not building pressure and likely has internal damage.
Test the check valve by watching for backflow
The check valve is a one-way gate in the pipe between the pump and the tank. It lets water flow up into the tank but prevents it from flowing back down into the well. If the check valve fails, water drains back into the well when the pump stops, and the pump has to refill the tank from scratch every time it starts.
To test it, turn off the main power to the pump and wait five minutes. Then turn the power back on and listen. If the pump runs for only a few seconds and then stops, the check valve is working — the tank still held pressure. If the pump runs for a long time before building pressure, or if it cycles on and off rapidly, the check valve is leaking and water drained back into the well.
You can also watch the pressure gauge during this test. After you turn the pump off, the pressure should hold steady. If it drops slowly over the next few minutes, the check valve is leaking. A failing check valve usually needs replacement, not repair.
Check the pressure switch with a multimeter if you are comfortable with electrical testing
The pressure switch is the device that tells the pump when to turn on and off. If the switch is faulty, the pump may run constantly, never run at all, or cycle erratically. Testing it requires a multimeter set to measure electrical continuity or resistance.
Turn off power to the pump at the breaker before you touch anything. Locate the pressure switch — it is usually a small cylindrical or box-shaped device screwed onto the top or side of the pressure tank. Disconnect the wires from the switch terminals (take a photo first so you can reconnect them in the right order). Set your multimeter to the continuity or ohms setting and touch the probes to the two terminals.
With the pump off, the multimeter should show no continuity (infinite resistance). Turn the power back on and watch the gauge. When pressure drops to the lower setpoint, the multimeter should suddenly show continuity (zero or near-zero resistance), meaning the switch has closed and is sending power to the pump. When pressure rises to the upper setpoint, continuity should break again. If the switch does not respond to pressure changes, it needs replacement. If you are not comfortable working with electrical connections, a well technician can test this in minutes.
Test the pump's flow rate to see if it is losing capacity
A pump that still runs but delivers less water than it used to may be losing capacity. You can measure this yourself with a bucket and a stopwatch. Turn on an outdoor faucet or the main water line and let water flow into a five-gallon bucket. Time how long it takes to fill. A healthy pump typically fills a five-gallon bucket in 30 seconds to two minutes, depending on the pump size and your system pressure.
If it takes much longer, the pump is not delivering its rated flow. This can happen because of sediment clogging the pump intake, a failing motor, or internal wear. Write down the time and compare it to your pump's nameplate, which lists the gallons per minute (GPM) it should produce. If actual flow is significantly lower, the pump is wearing out.
Low flow can also mean a clogged intake screen or a problem with the well itself — sediment in the well can restrict water reaching the pump. A well technician can pull the pump and inspect the intake to tell the difference.
Know when to call a professional instead of testing further
Stop testing and call a well technician if you see any of these signs: water that is discolored, cloudy, or has a smell; the pump makes grinding or metal-on-metal sounds; water is spraying from connections or the tank; the pump is more than 15 years old and showing any performance drop; or you are not confident working with electrical connections or opening the pressure tank.
A technician has tools you do not — a deep-well pressure gauge that reads accurately at depth, a water flow meter, and equipment to test the pump motor itself. They can also pull the pump from the well if needed, which is not a homeowner job. The cost of a service call (usually $150 to $300) is far less than the cost of a pump failure that leaves you without water for days while waiting for replacement.
If your pump is original to the house and you do not know its age, ask the previous owner or check the well permit filed with your county — it will have the installation date. Pumps typically last 15 to 25 years depending on water quality and use. If yours is in the upper range and showing any weakness, replacement may be coming soon regardless of what the tests show.
Frequently Asked Questions
What PSI should my well pump pressure be set to?
Most household systems run between 40 and 60 PSI, with the pump turning on at 40 and shutting off at 60. Your system may be different — check the label on the pressure switch or tank, or ask your well technician. Do not adjust the pressure switch yourself unless you know your system's correct range; wrong settings can damage the pump or reduce water flow.
Why does my pump run all the time?
A pump that runs constantly usually has a leak in the pressure tank, a failing check valve, or a faulty pressure switch. The leak causes pressure to drop, so the pump keeps running to try to refill the tank. This wastes electricity and wears out the pump quickly. Have a technician inspect the tank and check valve first, as those are the most common causes.
Can I fix a leaking check valve myself?
Check valves are not field-repairable — they must be replaced. The replacement itself is straightforward for a technician, but the pump may need to be pulled from the well depending on where the valve is located. This is not a homeowner job.
How do I know if my pump is failing versus the pressure tank?
If the pump runs but pressure does not build, the pump is failing. If the pump runs and pressure builds but then drops quickly when you turn it off, the tank or check valve is leaking. If the pump does not run at all, the pressure switch or electrical supply is the problem. A technician can narrow this down in one visit by testing each component.
Is it normal for my pump to cycle on and off throughout the day?
No. A healthy pump should run once or twice a day for a few minutes, then stay off until you use enough water to drop the pressure. If it cycles on and off every few minutes, you have a leak somewhere — in the tank, check valve, or in the house plumbing. Find and fix the leak before the pump wears out.