License plate lights are cheap and straightforward to replace yourself

Your license plate light is a small bulb mounted above or below your rear license plate. It burns out like any other bulb, and you can replace it in five to ten minutes with no special tools. The whole job costs between $5 and $15 for the bulb itself. You do not need a mechanic unless the socket is cracked or the wiring is damaged.

The process is the same on nearly every car: remove the old bulb, note what type it is, buy the same type, and push the new one in. The hardest part is usually just reaching the light without contorting yourself.

Key Takeaways

  • License plate light bulbs cost $5 to $15 and take five to ten minutes to replace without tools.
  • You need to identify the bulb type before you buy a replacement — check your owner's manual or look at the socket itself.
  • Most license plate lights twist out counterclockwise or pull straight out; pushing the new bulb in reverses the motion.
  • If the socket is cracked, the wiring is melted, or the light will not stay in, call a mechanic rather than forcing it.

Locate the light and see what you are working with

Open your trunk or hatchback and look at the inside of the panel directly behind your license plate. You will see either one or two small round fixtures mounted there — these are your license plate lights. Some cars have one light centered over the plate; others have two, one on each side.

Shine a flashlight at the fixture from the outside so you can see the bulb clearly. Look for any cracks in the plastic housing or signs that the bulb has burned out (it will look dark or blackened inside). If the housing is cracked or the wiring looks melted or discolored, stop here and take the car to a mechanic — you do not want to force a damaged socket.

Find out what bulb type you need

The easiest way is to check your owner's manual. Look in the index for "lights" or "bulbs" and find the section on exterior lights. It will list the bulb type by name — something like 194, 168, 921, or W5W. Write this down.

If you do not have the manual, you can look at the socket itself. On the inside of the fixture, near where the bulb sits, there is usually a small number printed on the plastic. That number is the bulb type. Take a photo of it with your phone so you have it when you go to buy the bulb.

If you cannot find a number, remove the old bulb (see the next section) and take it with you to an auto parts store. The staff can match it by sight.

Remove the old bulb

Reach into the fixture from inside the trunk. Most license plate light bulbs twist counterclockwise about a quarter turn until they stop, then pull straight out. Some bulbs push straight in and pull straight out with no twisting. Try twisting first; if it does not move, just pull gently.

If the bulb is stuck, do not force it. Wiggle it gently side to side while pulling, or explore a tiny bit of downward pressure while twisting. If it still will not budge, the socket may be damaged — stop and call a mechanic.

Once the bulb is out, set it aside. You now know what type you need if you did not already.

Buy the replacement bulb and install it

Go to any auto parts store — Autozone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, or even many grocery stores and pharmacies carry license plate light bulbs. Tell them the bulb type (the number you found) and your car's year, make, and model if you want to be sure. A single bulb costs $5 to $15 depending on the brand.

Back at your car, hold the new bulb by its metal base, not the glass. Push it into the socket straight in, or twist it clockwise if your bulb twists — whichever motion the old one used in reverse. You will feel it seat with a small click or resistance. Do not force it; it should go in smoothly.

Turn on your headlights and check that the new light works. If it does not, the bulb may be in backward (some bulbs are directional) or the socket may have a problem. Try removing it and reinserting it. If it still does not work, take the car to a mechanic.

When to call a mechanic instead

If the plastic housing is cracked, water may be getting inside and corroding the socket. If the wiring looks burned, melted, or discolored, there may be an electrical problem. If the bulb will not stay seated or keeps falling out, the socket may be damaged. In any of these cases, a mechanic can replace the entire fixture, which usually costs $50 to $150 in labor plus parts.

You should also call a mechanic if your license plate light was working fine and suddenly burned out again within a few weeks. That can mean the socket is drawing too much power, which is a wiring issue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use any bulb that fits, or does it have to be the exact type?

It has to be the exact type. Using the wrong bulb can cause it to burn out faster, draw too much power, or not fit properly. The bulb type number (like 194 or 921) is standardized, so any 194 bulb will work — you do not need the same brand, just the same number.

What if I cannot find the bulb type number anywhere?

Take the old bulb to an auto parts store and show it to the staff. They can match it by sight and sell you the same type. You can also call your car's dealership with your vehicle identification number (VIN) and they will tell you the bulb type.

Do I need to remove the license plate to get to the light?

No. You can reach the fixture from inside the trunk on almost every car. If your car has a very tight trunk or unusual design, your owner's manual will show you the access point. Removing the plate is rarely necessary.

Is it bad to drive with a burned-out license plate light?

Yes. In most places, a burned-out license plate light is a traffic violation and you can be pulled over. It also makes your plate hard to read at night, which is a safety issue. Replace it as soon as you notice it is out.