You can replace a zipper yourself with basic tools and a little patience
A broken zipper does not mean the end of a jacket, pair of pants, or bag. You can replace it at home with a needle, thread, scissors, and a new zipper that matches the old one's size and type. The job takes 30 minutes to an hour for most garments, and the only real skill is sewing a straight seam—something you can learn as you go.
The hardest part is usually finding the right replacement zipper. Zippers come in different widths (called coil width) and lengths, and they attach in different ways. Once you have the correct part, the actual removal and installation follows the same basic steps for almost any garment.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your old zipper's coil width and total length before ordering a replacement, because zippers are not one-size-fits-all.
- You will need to cut out the old zipper by snipping the stitches that hold it in place, then remove the metal or plastic stops at the top and bottom.
- Pin the new zipper in place along the seam line before sewing, so it sits straight and the fabric does not bunch.
- Sew the new zipper using a needle and thread or a sewing machine, stitching close to the zipper teeth on both sides.
- Test the zipper gently before wearing the garment, because a new zipper sometimes catches if the fabric is not positioned correctly.
Measure your old zipper to find the right replacement
Zippers are sized by coil width (the distance across the metal or plastic teeth) and length (the distance from the top stop to the bottom stop). A jacket zipper is usually #5 coil width and 20 to 30 inches long. Pants zippers are usually #4 or #5 and 4 to 7 inches. Bag zippers vary widely.
Measure the length of your old zipper by laying it flat and measuring from the metal or plastic piece at the top (the top stop) to the piece at the bottom (the bottom stop). Write down this number. Then look at the old zipper's side—many have a number stamped on the pull tab or the metal slider. That number is the coil width. If you cannot find it, take a photo of the zipper and bring it to a fabric or craft store; staff can match it by sight.
Buy a replacement zipper that matches both the length and the coil width. You can order online from fabric retailers or buy in person at a fabric store, craft store, or sometimes a hardware store. Make sure the new zipper is the same type—metal, plastic coil, or nylon—as the old one, because they behave slightly differently when you sew.
Remove the old zipper by cutting the stitches
Lay the garment flat on a table or your lap. Using small scissors or a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade made for this job), carefully cut the thread that holds the zipper to the fabric. Work slowly and cut only the thread, not the fabric itself. You will be cutting along both sides of the zipper where it was sewn down.
Once the stitches are cut, gently pull the zipper away from the fabric. If it resists, you may have missed some stitches—go back and cut more. Do not yank, because you can tear the fabric.
After the zipper is out, look at the top and bottom of the seam. You will see metal or plastic stops—small pieces that keep the slider from falling off. You may need to cut these off with scissors or carefully pry them off with a flathead screwdriver, depending on how they are attached. The new zipper will have its own stops, so the old ones are no longer needed.
Pin the new zipper in place before sewing
Lay the new zipper face-down on the fabric, aligned with the seam where the old zipper was. The teeth should sit right at the edge of the fabric, and the zipper should run straight down the seam line. Use straight pins to hold it in place every inch or so along both sides.
Close the zipper slider partway and check that it moves smoothly. If it catches or binds, the zipper may be twisted—unpin it, straighten it, and pin again. A twisted zipper will be difficult to use once it is sewn in.
Once the zipper is pinned straight and the slider moves freely, you are ready to sew.
Sew the zipper using a needle and thread or a sewing machine
If you are sewing by hand, use a needle and thread that matches the garment color. Tie a knot at the end of the thread. Starting at the bottom of the zipper, push the needle through the fabric and the zipper tape (the fabric edge of the zipper) from the back, so the knot stays hidden. Sew a straight line about one-quarter inch away from the zipper teeth, using small stitches (about one-eighth inch long). Work your way up one side of the zipper, then cut the thread, tie it off, and repeat on the other side.
If you have a sewing machine, use a zipper foot—a special presser foot that lets you sew close to the teeth without hitting them. Set the machine to a straight stitch and a medium stitch length. Sew one-quarter inch away from the teeth on both sides, just as you would by hand. A machine will be faster and the stitches will be more even, but hand sewing works fine if you take your time.
Sew all the way to the top of the zipper, then remove the pins. Open and close the zipper gently to make sure it moves smoothly. If it catches, you may have sewn too close to the teeth or the fabric may be bunched underneath—carefully cut the stitches on that side and resew.
Reinforce the top of the zipper with a bar tack
At the very top of the zipper, where the slider stops, sew a small square of stitches (called a bar tack) to hold the zipper in place and prevent it from pulling loose. This is especially important on jackets and bags that get heavy use.
To make a bar tack by hand, sew back and forth across the top of the zipper tape about five or six times in the same spot, creating a small reinforced square. By machine, you can use the bar tack stitch if your machine has one, or straightforward sew back and forth in place a few times. This takes only a minute and makes the repair much more durable.
Test the zipper and trim loose threads
Close and open the zipper several times, moving the slider smoothly from top to bottom. It should glide without catching, grinding, or pulling the fabric. If it does catch, stop and check whether fabric is bunched underneath or whether the stitches are too close to the teeth. You can carefully cut and resew that section if needed.
Once the zipper works smoothly, trim any loose thread ends with scissors. Wear the garment or use the bag normally—the zipper should work just like a new one.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace a zipper on a winter coat?
Yes, and coats are actually good candidates for zipper replacement because the fabric is sturdy and straightforward to sew through. Measure the old zipper carefully—winter coat zippers are often longer than you expect, sometimes 24 to 32 inches. The process is the same as for any other garment.
What if I cannot find a zipper that matches the exact length?
You can buy a longer zipper and cut it to size. Measure where you want the bottom to end, then cut the zipper tape (the fabric part) at that point. Slide the bottom stop off the old zipper, then slide it onto the new one at the correct position and crimp it closed with pliers. Sew the new zipper in place as usual.
Is it easier to sew a zipper by hand or by machine?
A sewing machine is faster and produces more even stitches, but hand sewing works just as well if you go slowly and use small, tight stitches. If you do not have a machine or zipper foot, hand sewing is a perfectly good choice and takes only a little longer.
What should I do if the new zipper is stiff or hard to move?
New zippers are sometimes stiff. Gently open and close it several times to loosen it up. If it still binds, rub a pencil lead or a bar of graphite along the teeth—this lubricates the zipper without leaving a wet residue. Do not use oil or grease, which can stain fabric.
Can I replace a zipper on a dress or skirt with a side seam?
Yes, but it is more difficult because you have to work in a tight space and the seam is curved. Measure and pin very carefully, and consider hand sewing so you can control the needle better. If the seam is very tight, you may want to take the garment to a tailor instead.