Replacing a guitar string takes about five minutes once you know the steps

A broken or worn string comes off the guitar, and a new one goes on in its place. You'll loosen the tuning peg at the headstock to release tension, remove the old string, thread the new string through the bridge or bridge pin (depending on your guitar type), pull it up to the tuning peg, wrap it around the post, and tune it back to pitch. The whole job is straightforward—no special tools needed beyond what came with your guitar or what you probably already own.

The process differs slightly between acoustic guitars (which use bridge pins) and electric or classical guitars (which don't), but the core steps are the same: loosen, remove, insert, wind, and tune. Once you've done it once, the second string takes even less time.

Key Takeaways

  • Acoustic guitars use bridge pins to hold strings in place at the bridge; electric and classical guitars do not, so the threading step differs between them.
  • Loosen the tuning peg at the headstock first to release string tension before trying to remove the old string.
  • New strings need several minutes of playing and retuning before they hold pitch, because the metal stretches as it settles.
  • You can replace one string at a time or all six at once; replacing one is faster, but replacing all six at once makes cleaning the fretboard easier.

What you need before you start

Gather a replacement string that matches your guitar type and the string number you're replacing. Acoustic strings are thicker and have a bronze or phosphor-bronze wrap; electric strings are thinner and usually nickel-plated steel. Classical guitars use nylon strings. The string package will list the gauge (thickness)—buy the same gauge as the one you're replacing, or check your guitar's manual if you don't know it.

You'll also want wire cutters (to trim the excess string after winding), a string winder (optional but speeds up the job), and a tuner so you can bring the new string to pitch. A string winder is a small hand-crank tool that spins the tuning peg for you; they cost $5 to $15 and make the job faster, but you can wind by hand if you don't have one.

Removing the old string on an acoustic guitar

Turn the tuning peg at the headstock counterclockwise until the string goes slack. You'll feel the tension drop as you turn. Once it's loose enough, you can unwind it by hand or use a string winder to speed it up. Keep turning until the string is completely loose and you can pull it out of the tuning peg hole.

At the bridge (the piece of wood on the body where the string anchors), you'll see a small wooden or plastic pin holding the string in place. Pull this bridge pin straight up and out—it may take a little wiggling. Once the pin is out, the old string will slide free from the bridge hole. Set the pin aside; you'll use it again with the new string.

Removing the old string on an electric or classical guitar

Turn the tuning peg counterclockwise until the string is slack, then unwind it completely by hand or with a string winder. Once loose, pull the string out of the tuning peg hole.

On an electric guitar, the string runs through a hole in the bridge or bridge block on the body. straightforward pull the old string straight out. On a classical guitar, the string is tied to the bridge with a knot. Untie the knot and pull the string free. You won't need to retie anything with the new string—classical bridge knots are tied once during manufacturing, and you'll thread the new string through the same loop.

Installing the new string on an acoustic guitar

Insert the ball end (the small metal sphere at one end of the string) into the bridge hole. The ball end should sit inside the bridge, not outside it. Place the bridge pin back into the hole on top of the string, pushing it down firmly until it seats. The pin holds the string in place and prevents the ball end from pulling through.

Pull the other end of the string up toward the headstock and insert it into the hole in the tuning peg post. Leave a few inches of slack—too much slack means you'll have to wind many extra turns, and too little means the string won't wrap enough times around the post to hold tension. A good rule is to leave enough slack so the string hangs about two inches away from the post when you hold it straight.

Turn the tuning peg clockwise to wind the string around the post. The string should wrap downward in neat, parallel coils. If you're using a string winder, insert the crank into the tuning peg and turn it; the winder will spin the peg for you. Wind until the string is snug and has some tension, but don't tune it to full pitch yet—you'll do that after all the slack is taken up.

Installing the new string on an electric or classical guitar

On an electric guitar, insert the ball end into the bridge hole (or through the bridge block if your guitar has a through-body bridge). Pull the string up to the headstock and insert the other end into the tuning peg hole, leaving a few inches of slack as you would on an acoustic.

On a classical guitar, thread the string through the bridge loop (the knot that's already tied there) and pull it up to the headstock. Insert the end into the tuning peg hole with the same few inches of slack.

Turn the tuning peg clockwise to wind the string around the post, wrapping it in neat coils downward. Use a string winder if you have one. Wind until the string is snug but not at full pitch yet.

Tuning and stretching the new string

Use a tuner to bring the string up to its correct pitch. The string will go flat quickly as you play it because the metal stretches under tension. Retune it after a few minutes of playing, then again after another few minutes. New strings typically need 10 to 15 minutes of playing and retuning before they hold pitch reliably.

If the string still won't hold pitch after 20 minutes, check that the bridge pin (on an acoustic) is seated all the way down, that the string is wound neatly around the tuning peg post, and that the string end is fully inserted into the tuning peg hole. A loose connection at either end will cause the string to slip and go flat. Once the string holds pitch, trim any excess string hanging past the tuning peg with wire cutters. Leave about a quarter-inch of string beyond the post so it doesn't unwind, but cut off anything longer to keep the headstock tidy and prevent the string from catching on things.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just one string, or do I have to replace all six at once?

You can replace one string at a time. Many players do this because it's faster and you don't have to remove all the strings at once. The downside is that you miss the chance to clean under the strings on the fretboard. Replacing all six at once takes longer but gives you full access to the fretboard for cleaning.

Why does my new string keep going flat?

New strings stretch under tension and need time to settle. Play the string for 10 to 15 minutes and retune it several times. If it still won't hold pitch after that, check that the bridge pin is fully seated (on an acoustic), the string is wound neatly around the tuning peg, and the string end is fully inserted into the tuning peg hole. A loose connection anywhere will cause slipping.

What's the difference between acoustic and electric guitar strings?

Acoustic strings are thicker and have a bronze or phosphor-bronze wrap around a steel core, which produces a louder, brighter tone. Electric strings are thinner and usually nickel-plated steel, which produces a quieter tone and is easier on your fingers. Using the wrong type won't damage your guitar, but it will sound wrong and may feel odd to play.

Do I need a string winder?

No. A string winder is optional and costs $5 to $15. It speeds up the winding process by spinning the tuning peg for you, but you can wind the string by hand just fine. If you replace strings often, a winder saves time; if you replace them rarely, your hands work fine.

How tight should I wind the string around the tuning peg post?

Wind it snugly so it doesn't slip, but you don't need to crank it with all your strength. The string should wrap in neat, parallel coils downward around the post, with each coil touching the one below it. Once you've wound enough coils that the string is under tension and won't slip, stop and tune it to pitch. Over-tightening won't help and can make the string harder to tune.