What a home inspector does and what you get from the inspection

A home inspector is a licensed professional who walks through a property you are considering buying and documents its physical condition. They examine the foundation, roof, plumbing, electrical systems, HVAC, windows, doors, and structural elements—looking for damage, wear, code violations, or systems nearing the end of their useful life. The inspector produces a written report, usually 20 to 40 pages with photos, that lists what they found and notes the severity of each issue.

The inspection itself typically takes two to four hours, depending on the size and age of the house. You can and should attend—the inspector will walk you through the property and explain what they are seeing. The report arrives within a few days and becomes the basis for negotiating repairs or price reductions with the seller, or for deciding whether to walk away from the deal.

An inspection is not a pass-or-fail test. It is a detailed inventory of condition. A house with a 30-year-old roof and outdated wiring is not automatically a bad purchase—but you will know what you are buying and what repairs or replacements you should budget for in the first few years of ownership.

Key Takeaways

  • A home inspector examines the foundation, roof, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, and structural elements, then produces a written report with photos and severity notes.
  • The inspection costs between $300 and $700 depending on the house size and age, and you pay the inspector directly—not through the seller or your lender.
  • You can use the inspection report to negotiate repairs or a price reduction with the seller before closing, or to decide whether to proceed with the purchase.
  • Some issues found in an inspection (like a failing septic system or foundation crack) may affect your ability to get a mortgage, so knowing them early matters.
  • A home inspection is separate from an appraisal; the appraisal is for your lender and estimates market value, while the inspection documents physical condition.

What gets inspected and what does not

Inspectors examine visible, accessible systems and structures. This includes the roof (from the ground or ladder, not by walking on it), exterior walls and foundation, basement or crawl space, attic, all plumbing fixtures and visible pipes, electrical panel and outlets, heating and cooling systems, water heater, and built-in appliances. They test windows and doors, check for signs of water damage or mold, and look for pest damage or evidence of infestation.

What inspectors do not do: they do not move heavy furniture or stored items, do not remove outlet covers or take apart systems, do not test every outlet or light switch individually, and do not inspect items the seller has specifically excluded (like a pool or septic system, though you can request these as add-ons). They do not predict how long a system will last or may provide that something will not fail tomorrow. They report what they observe on the day of the inspection.

If you are buying an older house, a property with a septic system, or a home with a pool, ask your inspector what add-on inspections they offer. A septic inspection, radon test, mold assessment, or pool inspection costs extra—typically $150 to $500 each—but can reveal problems that a standard inspection misses.

How much a home inspection costs and who pays

A standard home inspection costs between $300 and $700, with most falling in the $400 to $500 range. The price depends on the house size, age, and location. A 2,000-square-foot house in an urban area might cost $450; a 4,000-square-foot house or one built before 1950 might cost $600 or more. You pay the inspector directly, usually by check or credit card at the time of the inspection or shortly after.

The cost is your responsibility as the buyer, not the seller's. However, your purchase contract may include a contingency that allows you to cancel the deal if the inspection reveals major problems—this is your protection, not the seller's obligation to pay for repairs.

Some inspectors offer package deals if you add a radon test, mold assessment, or other add-on inspection at the same time. Bundling can save 10 to 20 percent compared to scheduling each separately.

How to use the inspection report to negotiate or decide

Once you receive the report, you have a window—usually 7 to 10 days, set by your purchase contract—to decide what to do. Your options are: proceed without asking for anything; ask the seller to repair specific items before closing; ask the seller to credit you a dollar amount toward repairs you will handle yourself; or cancel the purchase if the problems are severe enough to trigger your inspection contingency.

Sellers are most likely to agree to repairs for major systems—roof, foundation, plumbing, electrical—especially if the repair is needed for the house to meet code or for you to obtain financing. They are less likely to agree to cosmetic fixes or routine maintenance. If the inspection reveals that the roof has five years of life left but the seller's disclosure said it was new, that is a negotiating point. If it reveals the roof has five years left and the seller never claimed otherwise, you knew what you were buying.

Some issues will affect your mortgage. If your lender's appraiser or underwriter sees evidence of foundation problems, major water damage, or code violations, they may require repairs before they will fund the loan. Knowing this from the inspection report—rather than discovering it during underwriting—gives you time to negotiate or walk away.

Finding and hiring a home inspector

Ask your real estate agent for three to five names of inspectors they have worked with. Your agent has seen their reports and knows their reputation. You can also search online for inspectors in your area and check their credentials: most states license home inspectors, and you can verify a license through your state's regulatory board. Look for inspectors who are members of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI)—membership does not may provide quality, but it means they have met training and ethics standards.

Call three inspectors and ask about their experience with houses similar to yours (age, size, type), what their report includes, whether you can attend the inspection, and how quickly they deliver the report. Do not choose based on price alone—a $250 inspection from someone with no credentials is not a bargain if the report misses major problems.

Schedule the inspection after your offer is accepted but before your contingency period ends. Most inspectors can schedule within three to five business days. Attend the inspection if you can; it is your chance to ask questions and understand what you are buying.

The difference between an inspection, an appraisal, and a disclosure

These three are often confused because they all happen during the buying process, but they serve different purposes. A home inspection is what you order and pay for; it documents physical condition. An appraisal is ordered by your lender; it estimates the market value of the house to make sure the loan amount is reasonable. An appraisal is not a detailed condition report—the appraiser notes major defects that affect value, but does not inspect every system the way an inspector does.

A seller's disclosure is a legal document in which the seller lists known problems with the house. It is not an inspection—it is the seller's statement of what they know. If the seller discloses a roof leak and the inspector confirms it, that is consistent. If the seller discloses nothing and the inspector finds evidence of old water damage, that is a red flag and a negotiating point.

You need all three: the inspection tells you the condition; the appraisal tells your lender the value; the disclosure tells you what the seller claims to know. Each one protects you in a different way.

Red flags that might change your decision

Some inspection findings are deal-breakers for most buyers; others are manageable if the price reflects them. A foundation crack that runs horizontally across the basement wall, evidence of active water intrusion, or a roof that is actively leaking are serious. A roof that is 20 years old and nearing replacement, outdated electrical wiring, or a water heater that is 12 years old are normal wear for an older house—you budget for replacement in the next few years, but they do not necessarily mean you should walk away.

If the inspection reveals that the house does not meet current electrical code, that the plumbing contains polybutylene pipe (a material prone to failure), or that there is evidence of past termite or mold damage, ask your lender whether they will fund the loan. Some lenders require remediation before closing; others do not. Knowing this before you are deep in the process saves time and money.

Trust your inspector's judgment about severity. If they note something as "monitor" or "minor," it is not urgent. If they note it as "repair recommended" or "safety concern," take it seriously and factor it into your negotiation or your decision to proceed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I skip the home inspection to save money?

You can, but it is risky. The inspection is your only detailed look at the house's condition before you own it. Skipping it means you could discover a $15,000 roof problem or a $20,000 foundation issue after closing, when repairs are your responsibility. The $400 inspection is insurance against much larger costs.

What if the seller refuses to make repairs the inspector found?

You have three options: accept the house as-is, ask for a credit toward repairs you will handle yourself, or cancel the purchase if your contract includes an inspection contingency. The seller has no obligation to repair anything unless you negotiated it into your contract.

Does the home inspector's report may provide the house is safe?

No. The inspector documents what they observe on one day. Systems can fail after the inspection, and some problems (like electrical hazards inside walls) are not visible. The report is a snapshot of condition, not a may provide. It is your tool for making an informed decision, not a promise that nothing will go wrong.

Should I get a second inspection if I disagree with the first one?

If the first inspector missed something obvious or if you suspect their report is inaccurate, a second opinion from another licensed inspector can help. This is most useful for specific concerns—like whether a foundation crack is structural or cosmetic—rather than a full re-inspection of the whole house.

What happens if the inspection finds something after I have already closed?

Once you close, the house is yours and the seller is no longer responsible for repairs, with rare exceptions. This is why the inspection contingency period—before closing—is so important. Use it to uncover problems while you still have leverage to negotiate or walk away.