Archery equipment breaks into three categories: the bow itself, the arrows, and the protective gear you wear

A beginner's setup costs between $150 and $400 for a functional bow, arrows, and arm guard. The bow is the largest expense and the one that matters most for your experience—a bow that doesn't fit your draw length or is too heavy will make practice frustrating and inaccurate. Arrows are replaceable consumables; you'll lose some to the woods or break them on bad shots. Protective gear is small but necessary: an arm guard prevents the bowstring from snapping your forearm, and a finger tab or glove protects your drawing hand.

The type of archery you want to do shapes what you buy. Target archery in a backyard or range uses different equipment than hunting, and recreational shooting differs from competitive sport archery. Knowing which direction you're heading before you buy saves money and frustration.

Key Takeaways

  • Recurve bows are the standard starting point for most people and cost $100 to $250; compound bows are more expensive ($300 to $800) but hold the draw weight steadier, making them easier for some beginners.
  • Your draw length—measured from your fingertips to your chin when you're in shooting position—determines which bow size fits you, and buying the wrong size makes learning harder.
  • Arrows must match your bow's draw weight and your draw length, or they will fly unpredictably; a shop can measure both and recommend the right spine (stiffness) rating.
  • Protective gear (arm guard, finger tab, and quiver) costs $30 to $80 total and prevents injury and lost arrows.
  • Renting or borrowing a bow from a range or club for your first few sessions tells you whether you like the sport before you invest in your own equipment.

Recurve versus compound bows for beginners

A recurve bow has limbs that curve away from you when unstrung. It's lighter, cheaper, and simpler to maintain than a compound bow. Most archery ranges and clubs teach with recurves because they're forgiving for learning proper form. A beginner recurve costs $100 to $250 new. The trade-off is that you have to hold the full draw weight the entire time you're aiming—if the bow is 25 pounds, your arm is holding 25 pounds of force.

A compound bow uses a system of pulleys and cables so that once you draw it back, the force drops to a fraction of the peak weight. This makes holding steady easier and reduces fatigue, which appeals to hunters and people with less upper-body strength. Compound bows cost $300 to $800 new and require more maintenance: the cables and pulleys need periodic inspection and adjustment. They're also heavier and bulkier to carry.

For pure target shooting or learning, a recurve is the conventional choice. For hunting or if you know you want a compound, rent or borrow one first to confirm the draw weight feels manageable. Many ranges have loaner bows you can use for a session or two.

Measuring your draw length and choosing bow size

Your draw length is the distance from the bowstring to the back of the bow when your arm is fully extended in shooting position. It determines which bow size fits you. A bow that's too short or too long will be inaccurate and uncomfortable. The standard way to measure is to stand with your arms out to the sides, measure from fingertip to fingertip across your chest, and divide by 2.5. A person with a 60-inch wingspan typically has a 24-inch draw length.

Recurve bows come in sizes: 62 inches, 66 inches, 68 inches, and 70 inches are common. Compound bows have adjustable draw lengths built in—you can usually set them anywhere from 26 to 32 inches by turning a bolt. If you're between sizes on a recurve, a shop can measure you in person and recommend the size that fits. Buying the wrong size is one of the most common beginner mistakes and makes the bow feel wrong in your hand.

Many archery shops and ranges will measure your draw length for free if you ask. Some will also let you try a few different bow sizes before you buy.

Arrows and spine ratings

Arrows must match your bow's draw weight and your draw length, or they'll fly erratically. The spine is a rating of how stiff the arrow is. A bow that's 25 pounds needs a different spine than a 40-pound bow. Similarly, a 24-inch draw length needs a different spine than a 30-inch draw length. Buying arrows without checking these numbers is a waste of money.

Arrow shafts come in three materials: aluminum (affordable, durable, standard for beginners), carbon (lighter and faster, more expensive), and wood (traditional, heavier, mainly for historical archery). For target shooting, aluminum arrows cost $8 to $15 each. You'll want at least six to start—some will break, some will be lost in the grass, and having backups means you can keep shooting while you retrieve the others.

A shop can look up the correct spine for your bow and draw length using a chart. If you're buying online, you'll need to know both numbers. Many online retailers have spine calculators that ask for your draw weight and draw length and tell you which spine to order.

Protective gear and accessories

An arm guard is a plastic or leather cuff that wraps around your forearm and protects it from the bowstring snap. It costs $10 to $25. A finger tab or glove protects the three fingers you use to draw the string; a tab costs $5 to $15, and a glove costs $10 to $20. Both reduce the sting of the string release and improve your grip.

A quiver holds your arrows while you're shooting. A back quiver (worn on your back) costs $20 to $40. A hip quiver (worn at your side) costs $15 to $30. A ground quiver (stands on the ground next to you) costs $10 to $20 and is popular at ranges because it keeps arrows organized and visible.

A bow stringer is a tool that helps you string a recurve bow safely without twisting the limbs. It costs $10 to $20 and is worth buying if you own a recurve—stringing by hand can damage the bow. Compound bows come pre-strung and rarely need re-stringing at home.

A target is essential if you're shooting at home. A foam block target costs $30 to $60 and lasts through hundreds of shots. A bag target (filled with recycled material) costs $20 to $40 and is lighter to move. Ranges provide targets, so you don't need one if you're only shooting at a club.

Where to buy and what to avoid

Archery shops and sporting goods stores that have an archery section can measure your draw length, recommend a bow that fits, and help you choose arrows. They usually charge a small fee to set up a new bow (stringing it, tuning it, and attaching accessories), which is worth paying because a poorly set-up bow shoots badly. Online retailers are cheaper but require you to know your measurements and spine rating beforehand.

Avoid buying a bow from a general sporting goods store unless they have an archery specialist on staff. A bow that's the wrong size or weight will sit unused. Avoid ultra-cheap bows (under $50) from discount retailers—they're often poorly made and frustrating to shoot.

If you're unsure whether archery is for you, rent a bow from a local range or club for a session or two. Most ranges charge $10 to $20 for a bow rental and include arrows and basic instruction. This is the cheapest way to learn about you enjoy the sport before spending $200 or more on your own equipment.

Maintenance and replacement costs

A recurve bow needs minimal maintenance: keep it dry, store it unstrung (the tension on the limbs causes them to weaken over time), and inspect the string for fraying. A bowstring lasts 2 to 3 years with regular use and costs $15 to $40 to replace. A compound bow's cables and pulleys should be inspected annually and may need replacement every 3 to 5 years, which costs $50 to $150.

Arrows break or get lost regularly. Budget $10 to $20 per year for replacements if you shoot casually, more if you shoot several times a week. Finger tabs and arm guards wear out and need replacing every 1 to 2 years.

A well-maintained bow can last 10 to 20 years. The initial investment is the largest cost; ongoing expenses are mainly arrows and occasional string or cable replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a target bow and a hunting bow?

Target bows prioritize accuracy and are often lighter and more precise. Hunting bows prioritize power and speed to penetrate at distance. For a beginner, this distinction matters less than choosing the right draw weight and size. Many people shoot the same bow for both target practice and hunting.

Can I use a child's bow as an adult, or vice versa?

No. A child's bow is designed for a shorter draw length and lighter draw weight. Using an adult bow as a child can cause injury because the draw weight is too heavy. Using a child's bow as an adult will be inaccurate and uncomfortable. Draw length and weight are individual measurements, not age-based.

Do I need to buy expensive carbon arrows, or will aluminum work?

Aluminum arrows are fine for beginners and casual shooters. They're durable, affordable, and accurate enough for learning. Carbon arrows are lighter and faster, which matters for hunting or competitive shooting, but they cost two to three times as much. Start with aluminum and upgrade later if you decide you need the performance gain.

How often should I replace my bowstring?

A bowstring lasts 2 to 3 years with regular use, or longer if you shoot occasionally. Signs of wear include fraying, visible damage, or a change in how the bow feels. A shop can inspect your string and tell you whether it's safe to keep using. Replacing a string costs $15 to $40 and is cheaper than replacing a bow if a bad string causes damage.

What if I'm left-handed?

Bows come in both right-handed and left-handed versions. A right-handed bow is drawn with the left hand and held with the right; a left-handed bow is the opposite. Tell the shop or rental range whether you're left-handed before you pick up a bow. Using the wrong hand orientation is uncomfortable and inaccurate.