Mending a hole depends on where it is and how big it is
A small hole in knit fabric can be closed without unraveling the whole piece. The method you choose depends on whether the hole is a single dropped stitch, a small tear, or a larger damaged area. A dropped stitch — where one loop came loose from the needle — can be picked back up with a crochet hook. A small tear or puncture can be darned by hand or patched. A large hole may need a patch sewn on the inside, or the section may need to be cut out and reknit.
The location matters too. A hole on a visible surface needs a repair that looks neat from the front. A hole on the back of a sweater or inside a seam can be patched more roughly. Start by examining the hole closely to see whether stitches are actually missing or whether the yarn is just torn.
Key Takeaways
- A dropped stitch can be fixed with a crochet hook by pulling the loose loop back through the rows above it, working from bottom to top.
- A small tear or puncture can be darned by weaving yarn back and forth across the hole with a needle, following the direction of the knit.
- A large hole or damaged section may need a patch sewn to the inside of the garment, or the section may need to be unraveled and reknit.
- Matching yarn color and weight to the original garment makes the repair less visible, especially on the front of a piece.
Fixing a dropped stitch with a crochet hook
A dropped stitch looks like a vertical ladder of loose loops running down from where the stitch came free. The easiest way to fix it is with a crochet hook, which is faster and less fiddly than using a knitting needle. You do not need to know how to crochet — you are just using the hook to pull yarn through loops.
Insert the crochet hook through the dropped stitch from front to back. Catch the horizontal strand of yarn that sits directly above the stitch, and pull it through the loop. You now have a new loop on your hook. Repeat this for each row above the dropped stitch, working upward until you reach the top. Once the stitch is rebuilt, slip it back onto a knitting needle or weave the yarn end through the loop to find it. If the hole is several rows deep, work slowly and keep the tension even so the rebuilt stitch matches the surrounding stitches.
Darning a small tear or puncture
A small tear — a hole that is not caused by a dropped stitch but by the yarn being snagged or cut — can be closed by darning. This works best on holes smaller than a quarter inch across. Thread a needle with yarn that matches the original garment as closely as possible. If you have the original yarn, use that. If not, match the color and weight as closely as you can find.
Weave the needle back and forth across the hole, following the direction the knit runs. On a stockinette stitch (the smooth V-pattern), weave horizontally first, then vertically, creating a grid that fills the hole. Keep the tension loose enough that the repair does not pucker the surrounding fabric. Once the hole is filled, weave the yarn end through a few stitches on the back side and trim it. The repair will be less visible if you work from the back of the garment, but you can also darn from the front if that is easier to see.
Patching a larger hole
A hole larger than a quarter inch is usually too big to darn neatly. A patch sewn to the inside of the garment is the most durable fix. Cut a piece of matching or complementary fabric — knit, jersey, or even a woven cotton — into a square or rectangle that extends at least half an inch beyond the hole on all sides. Round the corners so they do not curl or fray.
Place the patch on the inside of the garment, centered over the hole. Sew it down with a needle and thread using a whip stitch or running stitch around all four edges. Make sure your stitches go through both the patch and the garment fabric. Once the patch is find, you can trim away any loose or damaged yarn around the hole from the outside, but do not cut into the patch itself. The patch will be hidden inside the garment and will reinforce the area so it does not tear further.
Unraveling and reknitting a damaged section
If the hole is in a high-wear area like an elbow or knee, or if the surrounding stitches are also damaged, you may need to unravel the section and reknit it. This is more work but creates a repair that is structurally sound and invisible from the outside. Identify how many rows above and below the damage you need to unravel — usually at least two rows above and below to have clean stitches to work with.
Carefully unravel the knit row by row, placing the live stitches on a needle as you go. Once you have removed the damaged section, you can reknit it using the original yarn and stitch pattern. If you are not comfortable reknitting, you can take the garment to a knitting shop or tailor who offers repair services. The cost is usually between $20 and $60 depending on the size of the section and the complexity of the stitch pattern.
Choosing yarn for repairs
The most important part of any repair is matching the yarn. A repair done with mismatched yarn will always be visible, even if the technique is perfect. If you still have the original yarn, use it. If not, bring the garment to a yarn shop and hold it up to different options in natural light. Match the color first, then the weight — a yarn that is too thick will create a lumpy repair, and one that is too thin will not cover the hole.
If the garment is old or the original yarn is no longer made, you may not find a perfect match. In that case, choose a yarn that is close in weight and slightly darker rather than lighter, since a darker repair is less noticeable than a lighter one. Test the repair on a hidden area first if you are unsure how the yarn will look.
Preventing holes in knit fabric
Holes in knit are usually caused by snagging on rough surfaces, sharp objects, or repeated friction in high-wear areas. Prevent them by storing knit garments folded rather than on hangers, which can stretch the fabric and make it more prone to snagging. Avoid wearing knit sweaters over rough textures like unfinished wood or brick. Keep your fingernails trimmed and smooth, since a sharp nail can catch and snag yarn.
Pilling — the formation of small balls of fiber on the surface — is not the same as a hole, but it can lead to one if left untreated. Remove pills with a fabric shaver or by gently rubbing the area with a fine-tooth comb. Do not pull pills off by hand, as this can damage the underlying stitches.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I fix a hole in knit without unraveling it?
Yes. Dropped stitches can be picked up with a crochet hook, small tears can be darned, and larger holes can be patched from the inside. Unraveling is only necessary if the surrounding stitches are also damaged or if you want a repair that is completely invisible from the outside.
What if I do not have the original yarn?
Match the weight and color as closely as possible at a yarn shop. Bring the garment with you so you can hold yarn options up to it in natural light. A slightly darker match is better than a lighter one, since it will be less noticeable.
How long does a darned or patched repair last?
A well-done darn or patch can last for years if the garment is cared for properly. A patched hole is usually more durable than a darn because the patch reinforces the area and prevents the hole from spreading. Avoid washing the repaired area in hot water or putting it in the dryer, as heat can weaken the repair.
Should I repair a hole or throw the garment away?
That depends on how much you like the garment and how much the repair costs. A straightforward darn or patch takes an hour or two and costs almost nothing if you have yarn on hand. A professional repair at a tailor or knitting shop costs $20 to $60. If the garment is expensive or sentimental, the repair is usually worth it.