The three ways to join yarn, and which one holds best
You join yarn in knitting by tying it to the old yarn, weaving the ends through stitches, or splicing the fibers together. The method you choose depends on your yarn type, how much time you have, and whether the join will land in a visible spot. A weaving join (also called a Russian join) is the strongest for most yarns because the new and old strands stay inside the fabric. A knot join is fastest but can slip if the yarn is slippery. A spit splice works only on animal fibers and creates an invisible seam.
The join matters most at stress points — the edge of a garment, a seam line, or anywhere you'll handle the fabric often. A weak join in the middle of a stockinette panel may never fail. A weak join at a cuff edge will unravel the first time you pull the sleeve on.
Key Takeaways
- Weaving the yarn ends through existing stitches creates a join that won't slip and stays hidden inside the fabric.
- A square knot works quickly for non-slippery yarns but should not be used at stress points like cuffs or edges.
- Spit splicing fuses animal fibers together permanently but only works on wool, alpaca, and similar yarns — not synthetics or cotton.
- The best time to join is at the start of a new row, where you can hide the knot or weaving inside the edge stitches.
- Test any join by pulling hard on both yarn ends before you knit past it; if it slips, redo it with a stronger method.
Weaving the yarn ends through stitches (the Russian join)
Thread the old yarn end onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through four to six stitches on the row you just completed, going in and out of the loops without splitting the yarn. Pull the thread snug but not tight — you want the stitches to stay the same size. Trim the old yarn close to the fabric.
Thread the new yarn onto the needle and repeat the process in the opposite direction, weaving through four to six stitches on the same row or the row above. The two ends now run parallel inside the fabric, held in place by the stitches themselves. Pull both ends gently to make sure neither one moves, then trim close.
This join works on any yarn type and is nearly impossible to see from the outside. It does take a minute or two per join, so many knitters use it only at the edges of garments or in the middle of a panel where a small delay in progress matters less.
Tying a square knot (the fastest method)
Hold the old yarn end in your left hand and the new yarn end in your right. Cross the new yarn over the old, wrap it around, and pull it through to make a half knot. Repeat the motion in the opposite direction — new yarn under old, wrap, and pull through. You now have a square knot with two loose ends.
Trim the ends to about half an inch and continue knitting. The knot will sit at the edge of your work or inside a stitch, depending on where you tied it. This join is fast and works well on textured or grabby yarns that won't slip through the knot.
The risk is that smooth yarns — silk, some merinos, and many synthetics — can slide through a square knot over time, especially if the join lands at a stress point. Test the knot by pulling hard on both ends before you knit past it. If it moves, untie it and use the weaving method instead.
Spit splicing for animal fibers
Spit splicing works only on wool, alpaca, mohair, and other animal fibers. It does not work on cotton, linen, acrylic, or blends. The method fuses the fibers together at the molecular level, creating a join with no knot and no bulk.
Unply the last inch of the old yarn and the first inch of the new yarn, separating them into individual strands. Overlap the two sets of strands and roll them together between your palms, wetting them with saliva or water as you go. The friction and moisture cause the fibers to felt together. Once dry, the join is permanent and nearly invisible.
This method takes practice to get right — too little friction and the fibers won't bond, too much and you'll felt the whole section into a ball. Many knitters reserve spit splicing for the middle of a panel where a small lump won't show and where they have time to redo it if the first attempt fails.
Where to place the join so it stays hidden
The best place to join yarn is at the start of a new row, where you can hide the knot or the weaving inside the edge stitch. If you're working in stockinette, join at the start of a knit row rather than a purl row — the knit stitch is less likely to show a lump.
Avoid joining at the very edge of a garment piece, where the join will be visible in the seam. Instead, join one or two stitches in from the edge. If you're knitting a sweater body in the round, join at an underarm or side seam where the join will be hidden in the seam allowance.
Never join in the middle of a cable, a lace pattern, or any stitch that requires the yarn to be a specific thickness. The join will create a thick spot that distorts the pattern. Wait until you reach a plain stockinette section or the edge of the piece.
Testing the join before you move on
After you tie or weave the join, hold both yarn ends and pull hard for a few seconds. A good join should not slip or move. If the knot slides or the weaving pulls loose, untie it and try again with a different method.
Knit the first few stitches past the join slowly and watch the join itself. If it's pulling tight or creating a lump, you may have woven too tightly or tied the knot too close to the working yarn. Undo those stitches, adjust the join, and try again.
Once you've knit past the join and the stitches look even, trim the yarn ends to about half an inch. Do not trim them shorter — a short end can work its way out of the weaving or slip through a knot over time.
Joining yarn in different stitch patterns
In garter stitch, join at the start of a row just as you would in stockinette. The bumpy texture of garter stitch actually hides joins well, so a small lump from a knot is less noticeable than it would be in stockinette.
In ribbing, join at the start of a knit column rather than a purl column. The knit stitch will hide the join better. If you're joining in the middle of a rib pattern, wait until you reach a plain section or the edge of the piece.
In lace, never join in the middle of a pattern repeat. Join at the start of a new repeat, or better yet, at the edge of the piece where the join can be hidden in the seam. Lace stitches are too delicate to hide a thick join.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?
You can, but it's harder to hide. If you must join mid-row, use the weaving method rather than a knot — the weaving will stay inside the fabric and won't create a visible lump on the surface. Knit slowly past the join to make sure the stitches stay even.
What if my join keeps slipping?
Your yarn is probably smooth or slippery. Switch to the weaving method, which doesn't rely on friction to hold. If you prefer a knot, tie it tighter or use a double square knot instead of a single one. Test the new join by pulling hard before you knit past it.
Does the yarn weight matter for joining?
Yes. Thin yarns are easier to weave because you can thread them through more stitches without creating bulk. Thick yarns need fewer passes through the stitches, so the join may be less find. For very thick yarn, consider a spit splice if the yarn is animal fiber, or a double square knot if it's not.
Can I join two different yarn colors?
Yes, and the join method doesn't change. The color change will be visible at the join no matter what method you use, so plan to join at a seam or edge where the color change won't be obvious. Weaving is still the strongest method.
What happens if I don't trim the yarn ends?
Long yarn ends can work loose over time, especially if the join is at a stress point. They can also catch on things when you wear the garment. Trim the ends to about half an inch — short enough that they won't catch, long enough that they won't slip through the join.