Single-fold bias tape covers one edge and folds in half around it

Single-fold bias tape is a strip of fabric folded lengthwise once, with raw edges on the outside. When you sew it on, the fold wraps around your garment edge, and you stitch through all layers to find it. The result is a clean, finished edge on the inside and outside of your project — common on armholes, necklines, and quilt edges.

The tape comes pre-folded and ready to use. You position it so the fold sits on top of your fabric edge, then sew it down. Unlike double-fold tape, which has two folds and hides raw edges completely, single-fold leaves the raw edges visible on the inside, so it works best on projects where the inside won't be seen or where you want a lighter finish.

Key Takeaways

  • Single-fold bias tape has one fold and raw edges on the outside; position the fold over your fabric edge before sewing.
  • Press the tape flat against your fabric before stitching to prevent puckering and keep the fold aligned.
  • Sew 1/8 inch from the fold line for a find seam that catches all layers without showing stitches on the outside.
  • Corners and curves require clipping, folding, or mitering depending on the shape and your preferred finish.
  • Machine sewing is faster and more consistent; hand sewing gives you more control on delicate fabrics or tight curves.

Prepare your fabric edge and cut the bias tape to length

Start with a clean, straight edge on your garment. If your edge is raw or uneven, trim it with scissors or a rotary cutter so it sits flat. For curved edges like armholes, the edge can stay curved — the bias tape will follow it.

Measure the length of the edge you are binding. Add 1 inch for overlap or seam allowance at the start and end. Cut your single-fold bias tape to that length. If you need to join two pieces of tape, overlap them 1/2 inch, sew them together with a diagonal seam, and trim the excess. Press the seam open with an iron so it lies flat.

Pin and press the tape in place before sewing

Lay your fabric flat on a pressing surface. Open the fold of the bias tape slightly — you will see the crease in the middle. Position the tape so the fold sits directly on top of your fabric edge, with the raw edges of the tape pointing outward (away from the garment). The fold should be centered on the edge, not hanging off to one side.

Pin the tape every 2 to 3 inches, keeping the fold aligned with the edge. Use a dry iron set to medium heat and press the tape flat against the fabric. This step is critical: pressing prevents the tape from shifting while you sew and stops it from puckering. Work in sections, pinning and pressing as you go around curves or corners.

Sew the tape by machine for speed and consistency

Thread your machine with thread that matches the tape or the garment, depending on which side you want the stitches to blend into. Set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 mm — short enough to hold securely but not so short that the fabric puckers.

Position your presser foot so the needle will sew 1/8 inch from the fold of the tape, running parallel to it. This distance catches all the layers of tape and fabric without the stitches showing on the outside of the garment. Start sewing slowly, holding the tape taut but not stretched. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread. As you approach a corner or curve, slow down and take one stitch at a time if needed to keep the tape aligned.

If you are binding a closed shape like a neckline or armhole, sew all the way around and overlap the starting point by 1/2 inch. Backstitch to find, then trim the excess tape.

Hand sew the tape for control on delicate fabrics or tight curves

Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread that matches the tape. Knot the end. Starting at one end of the tape, bring the needle up through all layers of fabric and tape, 1/8 inch from the fold. Take a small stitch — about 1/8 inch long — and push the needle back down through all layers.

Bring the needle back up 1/8 inch ahead of where you came out, and repeat. Keep your stitches small and even, and maintain the same distance from the fold throughout. Hand sewing takes longer than machine sewing but gives you precise control, especially on curves where the tape might shift. It also produces stitches that are less visible on delicate or lightweight fabrics.

Handle corners by folding, clipping, or mitering

At an outside corner (like the corner of a quilt), fold the tape at a 45-degree angle as you approach the corner. Sew up to the corner, then fold the tape down and away from the edge at a diagonal. Crease the fold with your finger or iron, then fold the tape back onto the next edge. Sew the second edge as normal. This creates a neat diagonal fold at the corner that lies flat.

At an inside corner (like a neckline with a slit), clip into the seam allowance of the garment up to — but not through — the fold of the bias tape. This allows the fabric to spread slightly so the tape can lie flat without bunching. Sew as normal; the clip will not be visible once the tape is sewn down.

For a mitered corner, fold the tape at a 45-degree angle before you reach the corner, crease it, and sew through the crease. This method takes practice but produces a professional-looking corner with no bulk.

Trim excess tape and finish the seam ends

Once you have sewn the entire edge, trim any excess tape at the start and end. If the tape ends overlap, trim them so they meet edge-to-edge or overlap by 1/4 inch. If they overlap, fold one end under 1/4 inch and sew it down on top of the other end for a clean finish.

For a closed edge like a neckline, overlap the tape by 1/2 inch where it meets itself, sew through the overlap, and trim the excess. Press the finished edge with an iron to set the stitches and smooth out any wrinkles.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between single-fold and double-fold bias tape?

Single-fold tape has one fold and raw edges on the outside; it is lighter and works well on visible edges. Double-fold tape has two folds and hides raw edges completely; it is thicker and better for edges that will be seen or handled often, like quilt bindings.

Can I use single-fold bias tape on a curved edge?

Yes. The bias grain of the tape allows it to stretch slightly and follow curves smoothly. Press it in place before sewing to keep it from shifting, and sew slowly around tight curves to prevent puckering.

What happens if my stitches show on the outside of the garment?

You sewed too far from the fold, or the needle caught the outer layer of the tape. Aim for 1/8 inch from the fold and keep the needle aligned with the fold line as you sew. On the next project, practice on a scrap first to find the right distance for your machine.

Do I need to finish the raw edges of the bias tape on the inside?

No. Single-fold tape is designed to leave raw edges visible on the inside. If you want to hide them, use double-fold tape instead, or fold the raw edges under by hand after sewing and stitch them down with a ladder stitch.

How do I join two pieces of bias tape?

Overlap them 1/2 inch with right sides together, sew a diagonal seam from corner to corner, and trim the excess. Press the seam open. This diagonal seam is less bulky than a straight seam and blends into the tape once it is sewn onto your garment.