Sewing a button on a suit jacket is faster than you think

A suit jacket button comes off because the thread holding it wore through—usually after months of buttoning and unbuttoning. You can sew it back on in about 15 minutes with a needle, thread, and scissors. The button itself almost never breaks; the thread does. This is a repair you can do at home without special tools, and it costs nothing if you already have thread in your house.

The key difference between sewing a button on a suit jacket and sewing one on a shirt is the thread path. Suit jackets take more stress because you button and unbutton them hundreds of times. You'll reinforce the button with a small shank—a gap between the button and fabric—so the thread doesn't snap again in two months.

Key Takeaways

  • Match your thread color to the button or the jacket fabric, not to what came off the jacket originally.
  • Create a small shank by wrapping thread around the thread bundle under the button, which prevents the thread from breaking again quickly.
  • Use a double strand of thread and sew through each hole at least six times for a suit jacket, which takes more stress than casual clothing.
  • Knot the thread on the back of the fabric, not on the button itself, so the knot stays hidden when you wear the jacket.

What you need before you start

Gather a needle, thread, scissors, and the button itself. If the button is lost, you'll need a replacement button that matches—check inside the jacket pocket, where manufacturers often sew a spare button to the interior seam. If there's no spare, take the jacket to a fabric store or menswear shop and match the size, color, and style as closely as you can.

For thread, pick a color that matches either the button or the jacket fabric. Dark thread on a dark suit, light thread on a light suit. If the original thread color is visible on the remaining button, you can match that, but it's not required. A single strand of thread is too weak for a suit jacket; you'll use two strands threaded together.

If you don't have thread at home, a sewing kit from a drugstore or fabric store costs a few dollars and includes needles and multiple thread colors. You only need one small spool.

Threading the needle and anchoring the knot

Cut about 18 inches of thread from the spool. Fold it in half so you have two strands of equal length. Thread both strands through the needle's eye at once—this gives you a double strand, which is much stronger than single thread. You'll have a loop on one end and two loose ends on the other.

Hold the jacket inside-out or turn the area around the button hole toward you so you can see the back of the fabric. Tie a knot at the end of the two loose threads. Make the knot tight and small—about the size of a pea. This knot will sit on the back of the fabric and keep the thread from pulling through.

Push the needle through the fabric from the back, coming up through one of the button holes. Pull gently until the knot catches on the back of the fabric. The needle should now be on the front, ready to sew the button.

Sewing through the holes six times

Place the button on the fabric over the hole you just came through. Most suit jacket buttons have two holes. Push the needle down through one hole and back up through the other hole, pulling the thread snug but not tight—you want the button to sit flat against the fabric, not be yanked down.

Repeat this motion at least six times. Go down through one hole, up through the other, down through the first, up through the second. Each pass strengthens the hold. After six passes, you'll have 12 thread segments holding the button (six down, six up), which is strong enough for daily wear on a suit jacket.

On the last pass, come up through one hole but do not go back down through the button. Instead, bring the needle out to the side of the button, on top of the fabric. You're about to create the shank.

Creating the shank to prevent thread breakage

The shank is a small gap between the button and the fabric. It protects the thread from snapping when you button the jacket repeatedly. Wrap the thread around the bundle of threads under the button—the threads you just created—two or three times. Wrap tightly but not so tight that you can't move the button slightly.

After wrapping, push the needle back through the fabric, coming out on the back side. You've now created a reinforced thread bundle under the button that acts like a shock absorber. The button can move slightly without the thread breaking.

Finishing and securing the knot

On the back of the fabric, make two small stitches in place—push the needle through the fabric and back out right next to where it came in, twice. This anchors the thread. Then tie a knot close to the fabric, pulling the thread snug so the knot sits against the back. Trim the excess thread with scissors, leaving about a quarter-inch of thread above the knot.

Turn the jacket right-side out and test the button. It should sit flat, move slightly when you wiggle it (because of the shank), and feel solid. Button and unbutton it a few times to make sure the thread doesn't slip.

Common mistakes that weaken the repair

Using a single strand of thread instead of two is the most common mistake. Single thread snaps within weeks on a suit jacket. Always fold the thread in half and thread both strands through the needle.

Sewing fewer than six times is another shortcut that fails. Four passes might feel like enough, but suit jackets button and unbutton constantly. Six passes distributes the stress across more thread segments. Skipping the shank is also tempting—it takes an extra 30 seconds—but the shank is what keeps the thread from breaking again in two months.

Pulling the thread too tight while sewing will warp the button and make it sit crooked. Pull snug enough that the button doesn't wiggle, but not so tight that you're straining the thread.

When to take the jacket to a tailor instead

If the button hole itself is torn or enlarged, or if the fabric around the button is damaged, a tailor should repair it. A tailor can reinforce the area and sew the button more securely than a home repair. If multiple buttons are missing or loose, a tailor can replace them all at once and match them perfectly.

For a single button on a suit jacket in good condition, home sewing takes 15 minutes and costs nothing. For damage to the fabric or multiple buttons, a tailor's fee (usually $5 to $15 per button) is worth the professional finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I don't have thread that matches the button color?

Match the thread to the jacket fabric instead. Dark thread on a dark jacket, light thread on a light jacket. The thread will be less visible than if you use a contrasting color. If the button is a very bright color and the jacket is neutral, thread matching the jacket is the better choice.

Can I use the same thread that came off the button?

No. The thread that came off is worn out and will break again quickly. Use fresh thread from a new spool. Old thread loses strength over time, especially after months of stress from buttoning and unbuttoning.

Do I need a special needle for suit jackets?

A regular sewing needle works fine. If you have a needle that's very small or very large, use a medium-sized needle—size 8 or 9. The needle just needs to be small enough to fit through the button holes and strong enough not to bend when you push it through fabric.

What if the button has four holes instead of two?

Sew through all four holes in an X pattern or a plus-sign pattern. Go diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner, then from the other two corners. This distributes the stress evenly. Still aim for at least six passes total, and still create the shank at the end.

How long will the button stay on after I sew it?

If you sew it correctly with a double strand, six passes, and a shank, the button should last as long as the jacket. The thread will eventually wear out after years of daily use, but you'll get at least a year or two of regular wear before needing to resew it.