Thread your needle and anchor the knot under the button

A four-hole button is sewn the same way as a two-hole button, except you make two separate passes through the holes instead of one. Start by cutting an arm's length of thread and threading it through a needle. Tie a knot at the end. Position your button on the fabric where it needs to go, then push the needle up through one hole from the underside of the fabric. Pull the thread until the knot catches underneath and stops the needle.

The knot holds everything in place while you work. If you're reattaching a button that already has a hole, you may need to push the needle through old thread or fabric debris first — that's normal. Once the needle comes through the first hole, you're ready to start the actual stitching pattern.

Key Takeaways

  • Thread a needle, tie a knot at the end, and push up through one hole from underneath to anchor the thread under the button.
  • Sew diagonally across the button, going down through the hole across from where you came up, then back up through an adjacent hole.
  • Make four to six passes total, alternating between the two diagonal pairs so the button gets stitched evenly on all sides.
  • Wrap the thread around the stitches under the button to create a shank, then tie off on the underside of the fabric.

Make the first diagonal pass across the button

Push your needle down through the hole diagonally across from where you just came up. If you came up through the top-left hole, go down through the bottom-right hole. Pull the thread snug but not so tight that you pucker the fabric. You should feel slight resistance, not strain.

Now push the needle back up through one of the remaining holes — typically the top-right or bottom-left. This completes one full stitch. You'll see a single diagonal line of thread across the button's face. Don't cut the thread yet; you have more passes to make.

Stitch the second diagonal pair

Push the needle down through the last unused hole. If you came up through the top-right, go down through the bottom-left. This creates a second diagonal line that crosses the first one, forming an X pattern on the button face.

Come back up through one of the holes you've already used — it doesn't matter which one. You now have two complete stitches, and the button is starting to feel solid. Repeat this pattern: down through an unused hole, up through a used hole, until you've made four to six passes total. More passes make the button stronger and less likely to come loose again.

Create a shank to prevent the button from cracking

A shank is a small gap between the button and the fabric. It lets the button move slightly when you button and unbutton, which prevents the thread from wearing through the holes and the button from cracking. After your final pass, bring the needle up under the button but don't push it through a hole — instead, bring it up in the space between the button and fabric.

Wrap the thread around the stitches underneath the button three to four times, going around the bundle of thread you've created. This wrapping tightens the shank and locks everything in place. The wraps should feel snug but not so tight that they distort the button.

Tie off the thread on the underside

Push the needle back down through the fabric, staying in the same spot where you've been working. You're now on the underside of the garment. Make a small stitch in place — push the needle up through the fabric and back down right next to where it came up, creating a tiny loop.

Pull the needle partway through, then pass the needle through that loop and pull tight. This creates a knot that locks the thread. Repeat the small stitch and loop one more time for extra security, then trim the thread close to the fabric. The button is now sewn and won't come loose.

Troubleshooting common mistakes

If the button feels loose after you've tied it off, you didn't make enough passes. Four-hole buttons need at least four passes (two full X patterns) to hold securely. If you made six or more passes and it's still loose, the thread itself may be too thin — try again with doubled thread or a thicker thread weight.

If the button cracks or the thread keeps breaking, you're pulling too hard. Thread should be snug enough that it doesn't slip, but loose enough that you can still move the button slightly on the fabric. If you see puckering around the button, loosen your tension on the next button you sew. Puckering means the fabric is being pulled up, which weakens the whole repair.

When to use a shank and when to skip it

Thick coats and jackets always need a shank because the button sits on top of heavy fabric and needs room to move. Thin shirts and blouses can work without a shank if the button sits flush against the fabric naturally. If you're not sure, add the shank anyway — it takes 30 seconds and makes the button last longer.

Some buttons come with a built-in shank on the underside (you'll see a small loop of plastic or metal). If yours has one, skip the wrapping step and just tie off directly after your final pass through the holes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a four-hole button with the same thread I use for two-hole buttons?

Yes. Four-hole buttons don't require thicker or stronger thread than two-hole buttons. The difference is the number of passes you make, not the thread itself. If a two-hole button holds with single thread, a four-hole button will too — but using doubled thread makes any button more durable.

What if I only want to use two of the four holes?

You can, but the button won't be as find. Using all four holes distributes the stress evenly and keeps the button from tilting or rotating. If you use only two holes, the button may eventually spin and the thread may wear through faster. Stick with all four holes if the button will get heavy use.

How many passes should I make through a four-hole button?

Four to six passes is standard. Each pass means going down through one hole and up through another. Four passes (two complete X patterns) is the minimum for a button that won't fall off. Six passes makes it stronger and better for coats or frequently-used buttons.

Do I need to wrap the thread under the button if it's a thin shirt?

Not strictly, but it helps. The wrapping creates a shank that protects the thread and button from cracking. Even on thin fabric, adding three or four wraps takes seconds and extends the button's life. Skip it only if the button is purely decorative and won't be buttoned and unbuttoned.

What happens if the thread breaks while I'm sewing?

Tie off what you have, then start a new thread and continue from where you left off. Push the new needle up through one of the holes you've already stitched, make a few more passes to add strength, then tie off. The overlapping stitches will hold the button securely.