What a shank button is and why the attachment method matters
A shank button is a button with a hollow stem or loop on the back instead of holes drilled through the front. The stem sits between the button and the fabric, creating a small gap that lets the button move freely without putting stress on the thread. This gap is what makes shank buttons different from flat buttons — and it changes how you attach them.
The shank itself does most of the work. Because the button sits raised above the fabric surface, you don't need to create thread loops underneath like you do with hole buttons. You straightforward sew through the shank stem, wrap your thread around it a few times, and anchor it to the fabric. The result is a button that moves smoothly and lasts longer because the thread isn't constantly bending at sharp angles.
Shank buttons are common on coats, blazers, and dress shirts — anywhere a button needs to withstand repeated buttoning and unbuttoning. Learning to sew them properly means your repairs will hold up through dozens of wash cycles.
Key Takeaways
- Thread your needle and knot the end, then push it up through the fabric from underneath so the knot stays hidden on the back.
- Pass your needle through the shank stem (the hollow loop on the button back) and back down through the fabric, repeating six to eight times to build strength.
- After your final pass through the shank, bring the needle up between the button and fabric, wrap the thread around the shank stem three to four times, then push the needle back down and tie off underneath.
- A shank button needs no thread loops under it because the stem already creates the gap between button and fabric.
Gather your materials and thread the needle
You need a needle, thread that matches your garment, scissors, and the shank button itself. Thread color matters — a mismatch will be visible every time someone looks at the button. If you can't find an exact match, choose a shade slightly darker rather than lighter, since thread recedes visually more than it stands out.
Cut an arm's length of thread (roughly 18 to 24 inches). Thread it through the needle's eye and pull one end so you have two strands of equal length. Tie a knot at the end by looping the two strands together and pulling tight. This double strand gives you strength without making the thread too thick to pass through the shank.
Push your needle up through the fabric from the back side, right where the button will sit. Pull until the knot catches on the underside of the fabric. The knot stays hidden, and your thread is now anchored and ready to attach the button.
Sew through the shank stem six to eight times
Position the button so the shank stem points straight down toward the fabric. Pass your needle through the hollow stem and then down through the fabric, pulling the thread snug but not so tight that you pucker the fabric. You should feel slight resistance, not a hard tug.
Bring the needle back up through the fabric, directly beside your first hole. Pass through the shank stem again and down through the fabric. Repeat this motion six to eight times. Each pass locks the button more firmly in place. After three or four passes, the button will feel solid, but continuing to eight passes gives you the durability that keeps the button from eventually spinning loose.
Keep your stitches vertical and parallel to each other. Messy stitching looks sloppy and can weaken the attachment because the thread doesn't distribute the load evenly. If you notice your stitches are angled or crossing over each other, start over with a fresh button rather than trying to fix it mid-sew.
Wrap thread around the shank to reinforce the stem
After your final pass through the shank, bring your needle up between the button and the fabric — not through the shank, but in the small gap created by the stem. This is where you build the reinforcement that keeps the button from eventually tearing free.
Wrap your thread around the shank stem three to four times, pulling gently so each wrap sits snug against the stem. You're creating a thread collar that absorbs the stress every time someone buttons and unbuttons the garment. This step is what separates a button that lasts from one that falls off in a month.
After your final wrap, push the needle back down through the fabric, staying in the gap between button and fabric. This keeps the wraps hidden and the button looking clean from the front.
Tie off the thread on the back side
Once your needle is back on the underside of the fabric, bring it up again through the fabric very close to where it just went down — within a quarter inch. You're creating a tiny loop on the back. Pass your needle through that loop and pull tight. Repeat this once more to create a find knot that won't unravel.
Trim the thread close to the knot with scissors. Leave just a small tail so the knot doesn't slip through the fabric weave. A properly tied-off button should not move at all when you tug on it from the front.
Common mistakes that weaken shank button seams
The most common error is not wrapping thread around the shank stem. Skipping this step leaves the button attached only by the stitches through the stem, which eventually wear through from friction. The wraps distribute the stress and double the button's lifespan.
Another mistake is using thread that's too thin or too short. A single strand of thread will snap under the stress of repeated buttoning. Always use doubled thread, and always cut a full arm's length so you don't run out halfway through and have to tie on a new piece, which creates a weak point.
Pulling the thread too tight while sewing is also common. This puckers the fabric around the button and can eventually tear the weave. Your stitches should be snug enough that the button doesn't wiggle, but loose enough that you can still slide a fingernail under the thread.
Checking your work before you wear the garment
Once the thread is tied off, tug the button firmly from several angles. It should not move, spin, or feel loose. If it does, the wraps around the shank may not be tight enough, or you may not have made enough passes through the stem. You can add more wraps by threading the needle again and repeating the wrapping step.
Look at the button from the front. The shank should be completely hidden under the button, and no thread should be visible on the face of the button itself. If you see thread loops on the front, you've sewn it like a flat button instead of a shank button — the stitches should only be visible on the back.
Wash and dry the garment before wearing it regularly. This tests whether your knot will hold through the agitation of the washing machine. A button that survives one wash cycle will survive many more.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a single strand of thread instead of doubled thread?
No. A single strand will snap under the stress of buttoning and unbuttoning. Always double your thread by cutting a length, threading it through the needle, and pulling so both ends are even. This gives you two strands working together.
What if the shank stem breaks while I'm sewing?
Stop and remove the button. A broken shank cannot hold the button securely, and sewing it will only waste thread. Replace it with a new button of the same size and color. Shank stems break most often when the button is old or made from cheap plastic.
Do I need to sew through the shank eight times, or is six enough?
Six passes will hold the button, but eight is better for garments that get heavy use — coats, blazers, and work shirts. For dress shirts or lighter wear, six passes is sufficient. More passes never hurt, so if you have the thread, keep going.
Why does my button spin even after I've sewn it?
The wraps around the shank are probably too loose. Remove the button and resew it, making sure each wrap around the stem is pulled snug. The wraps should feel firm when you tug on them, not slack.
Can I sew a shank button by hand if I've never done it before?
Yes. Hand sewing a shank button is simpler than sewing a flat button because you don't need to create thread loops underneath. Follow the steps in order, take your time with the wraps around the shank, and tie off securely. Your first button may take ten minutes, but the second will take five.