A buttonhole is a slit with reinforced edges that holds a button in place
A buttonhole is a small opening cut into fabric with stitched edges that prevent fraying and give the button something to grip. You sew the edges, not the hole itself — the stitching creates a frame around an opening you cut after the stitching is done. You can make a buttonhole by hand using a needle and thread, or by machine if your sewing machine has a buttonhole stitch. Hand-sewn buttonholes take 10 to 15 minutes each and work on any fabric. Machine buttonholes take 2 to 3 minutes and produce uniform results, but require a machine with the right stitch.
The size of your buttonhole depends on your button. A buttonhole should be just wide enough for the button to pass through with slight resistance, and long enough to accommodate the button's thickness plus a small margin. Measure your button's diameter, add one-eighth inch, and that is your buttonhole length.
Key Takeaways
- Hand-sewn buttonholes use a backstitch outline and a blanket stitch edge, and work on all fabric types without special equipment.
- Machine buttonholes require a buttonhole foot and a machine stitch designed for buttonholes, and produce consistent results in minutes.
- Mark your buttonhole placement with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk before you stitch, and cut the opening only after all stitching is complete.
- The buttonhole should be sized to your button's diameter plus one-eighth inch, measured lengthwise.
- Reinforce the fabric behind the buttonhole with interfacing before stitching to prevent tearing and puckering.
Hand-sewn buttonholes: the backstitch and blanket stitch method
Hand sewing gives you control and works on delicate or unusual fabrics where a machine might snag or pucker. You will need a needle, thread that matches your fabric, a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk, a ruler, and small scissors. Use thread rated for hand sewing — it is thinner and stronger than regular thread.
Mark the buttonhole location with a straight line the length you calculated. Use a backstitch to outline the buttonhole: bring your needle up at one end of the line, push it down a quarter-inch ahead, then bring it back up at the starting point. Repeat this forward-and-back motion along both long edges of the marked line, creating a rectangle of stitches. This outline holds the fabric stable while you cut.
Once the outline is complete, cut along the center of the marked line using small, sharp scissors. Cut only the fabric, not the thread. Now stitch the edges with a blanket stitch: bring your needle up through the fabric just outside the cut, loop the thread under the needle tip, and pull tight. This creates a knot at the edge. Move a quarter-inch along the edge and repeat. Work your way around all four sides of the opening. The blanket stitch prevents fraying and creates a finished appearance.
Machine buttonholes: using the buttonhole foot and stitch
Machine buttonholes are faster and more uniform, but your machine must have a buttonhole stitch. Most modern machines do. Check your manual for the buttonhole stitch number and whether your machine requires a special foot — most do, and it usually comes with the machine.
Mark your buttonhole with a fabric pencil or chalk. Attach the buttonhole foot to your machine and insert the needle at the starting point. Set your machine to the buttonhole stitch and the correct stitch length — your manual will specify this, usually between 0.5 and 1.0 millimeters. Sew slowly and let the machine do the work. The machine will stitch one long edge, pivot at the end, stitch the other long edge, and finish with a bar tack (a cluster of stitches) at each end. The whole process takes one pass.
After the machine finishes, cut the opening using a seam ripper or small scissors. A seam ripper has a small blade and a ball at the end that protects the stitches — it is the safest tool for this step. Cut from the center outward toward the bar tacks, but do not cut the stitches themselves.
Preparing your fabric so the buttonhole does not tear
Buttonholes fail when the fabric is too thin or loose-weave to support the stress of a button being pushed through repeatedly. Reinforce the area behind the buttonhole with interfacing before you stitch. Interfacing is a layer of fabric fused or sewn to the back of your garment to add stability.
Cut a piece of interfacing slightly larger than your buttonhole — about one inch by two inches. If you are using fusible interfacing (the kind with adhesive on one side), place it behind the buttonhole area, adhesive side down, and press with a hot iron according to the interfacing package instructions. If you are using sew-in interfacing, baste it in place with a few loose stitches before you mark and sew the buttonhole. The interfacing stays in place permanently and is not visible from the front.
Spacing multiple buttonholes on a garment
Shirts, coats, and dresses often have several buttonholes in a vertical line. Spacing them evenly makes the garment look finished and ensures buttons align properly. Measure the distance from the top button to the bottom button, divide by the number of spaces between buttons, and mark each buttonhole at that interval.
For example, if your top button is two inches from your bottom button and you want four buttons total, you have three spaces. Divide two inches by three to get two-thirds of an inch between each buttonhole center. Mark at zero inches, two-thirds inch, one and one-third inches, and two inches. Use a ruler and fabric pencil to mark each spot before you begin stitching.
Fixing a buttonhole that is too small or torn
If your buttonhole is too small, you can carefully enlarge it by cutting a bit more from the center, but you cannot add stitching after the fact without removing the old stitches first. If the opening is only slightly too tight, try gently working the button through a few times — the fabric may stretch slightly with use.
If the buttonhole is torn or the stitches are loose, the easiest repair is to sew a patch of matching fabric behind the hole on the inside of the garment, then re-stitch the buttonhole edges. This is visible from the inside but reinforces the area and prevents further tearing. For a visible tear in the stitching itself, you can re-stitch over the damaged section using a needle and thread, following the original stitch line.
Buttonhole placement on different garment types
Buttonholes go on the side of the garment that overlaps when the garment is closed — usually the left side on women's clothing and the right side on men's clothing. The buttonhole should be positioned so the button sits at the center of the opening when fastened. On a shirt front, buttonholes typically run vertically down the center front placket. On a cuff, they run horizontally.
The distance from the edge of the fabric to the buttonhole varies by garment style. On a shirt front, the buttonhole is usually one-half to three-quarters inch from the center front seam. On a cuff, it is typically one-half inch from the edge. Check your pattern instructions for the exact placement, or measure an existing garment you like to use as a reference.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size should my buttonhole be?
Measure your button's diameter, add one-eighth inch, and that is your buttonhole length. The width should be just wide enough for the button to pass through — usually one-quarter to three-eighths inch. A buttonhole that is too large looks sloppy and the button may slip open; one that is too small tears the fabric when you fasten it.
Can I use a regular stitch instead of a buttonhole stitch on my machine?
A regular stitch will not hold up to the stress of a button being pushed through repeatedly. The buttonhole stitch is designed to create a dense, reinforced edge that prevents fraying and tearing. If your machine does not have a buttonhole stitch, hand-sewing with a blanket stitch is your best option.
Do I cut the buttonhole before or after stitching?
Always stitch first, then cut. The stitching holds the fabric in place and prevents it from fraying or tearing when you cut the opening. If you cut first, the fabric edges will fray and your stitches will not have a stable base to anchor to.
What thread should I use for hand-sewn buttonholes?
Use thread rated for hand sewing — it is thinner and stronger than regular thread and will not break under the stress of repeated button fastening. Match the thread color to your fabric for a finished look, or use a contrasting color if you want the buttonhole to stand out as a design detail.
How do I prevent my buttonhole from puckering?
Reinforce the fabric with interfacing before you stitch, and use a stabilizer under the fabric if you are machine-sewing. A stabilizer is a temporary layer that sits under the fabric during stitching and tears away afterward. It prevents the fabric from shifting and puckering. Your machine manual will recommend the type of stabilizer for your machine.