The two methods: hand-sewn and machine buttonholes

A buttonhole is a slit in fabric with reinforced edges that stops the fabric from fraying when you push a button through it. You can make one by hand using a needle and thread, or by machine if your sewing machine has a buttonhole setting. Hand-sewn buttonholes take 10 to 20 minutes each and give you full control over size and placement. Machine buttonholes are faster — usually 2 to 5 minutes — but require a machine with a one-step or four-step buttonhole function, and the size is limited by your machine's capacity.

The choice depends on what you are mending or making. A single missing button on a shirt is faster by hand. A garment with multiple buttonholes, or one where you need a professional finish, is worth doing by machine if you have access to one.

Key Takeaways

  • Hand-sewn buttonholes use a blanket stitch around a slit you cut yourself, and work on any fabric and any garment.
  • Machine buttonholes require your sewing machine to have a buttonhole function, and the button must fit through the finished hole.
  • Mark the buttonhole length before you cut or sew — it should be slightly longer than the button's diameter, not its width.
  • A hand-sewn buttonhole needs thread that matches the fabric and a needle small enough to pass through the fabric without tearing it.
  • Test your buttonhole size on scrap fabric first, because cutting a hole that is too large cannot be undone.

How to mark a buttonhole before you start

Measure your button across its widest point — usually the diameter if it is round, or the length if it is oval. Add 1/8 inch to that measurement. This is your buttonhole length. Mark the buttonhole on your fabric with a fabric pencil, tailor's chalk, or a temporary fabric marker in a line that runs parallel to the edge of the garment (usually vertical on a shirt front, horizontal on a cuff).

The buttonhole should sit about 1/4 inch from the edge of the button band or placket. If you are making multiple buttonholes, space them evenly — measure the distance between the center of one buttonhole and the center of the next, and keep that distance the same for all of them. Mark all buttonholes before you cut or sew any of them, so you can adjust spacing if needed.

Hand-sewing a buttonhole step by step

Cut a slit along your marked line using small, sharp scissors or a seam ripper. Cut only through the top layer of fabric if the garment is lined, or through both layers if it is not. The slit should be exactly as long as you marked it — no longer.

Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric. Use a single strand for lightweight fabric, or double the thread for heavier fabric. Knot the end. Starting at one corner of the slit, bring the needle up through the fabric just outside the slit, so the knot sits on the underside.

Work a blanket stitch around the slit. Push the needle down through the slit about 1/16 inch from the edge, then bring it back up through the fabric just outside the slit, looping the thread under the needle point before you pull tight. Each stitch should be close to the previous one — aim for stitches about 1/16 inch apart. Work along one long side of the slit, then around the end, then back along the other long side, then around the other end, until you return to your starting point.

At the end, push the needle to the underside and tie off the thread with a small knot. Trim the thread close to the knot. The blanket stitch creates a ridge of thread around the hole that prevents fraying and gives the buttonhole a finished edge.

Using a sewing machine buttonhole function

Check your machine's manual to find the buttonhole setting — it may be labeled "buttonhole", "1-step buttonhole", or "4-step buttonhole" depending on the machine. Some machines have a separate buttonhole foot that you attach instead of the regular presser foot.

Mark your buttonhole on the fabric as described above. Place the fabric under the presser foot so the marked line runs straight ahead of the needle. If your machine has a buttonhole foot with a slider, insert your button into the slider so the machine can measure the buttonhole length automatically. If not, you may need to set the length manually using the machine's dial or screen.

Lower the presser foot and press the buttonhole button or pedal. The machine will sew the buttonhole automatically — it usually stitches one long side, then the end, then the other long side, then the other end. When it stops, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Use a seam ripper to carefully cut the slit down the middle of the stitched rectangle, being careful not to cut through the thread at either end.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Cutting the slit too long is the most common error. The buttonhole should be just long enough for the button to pass through with a little friction — if it is too long, the button will fall out when you wear the garment. Always measure the button first and add only 1/8 inch. If you are unsure, test on scrap fabric before cutting into your actual garment.

Uneven stitching on a hand-sewn buttonhole happens when you vary the stitch length or the distance from the edge. Keep your stitches the same size and the same distance from the slit edge throughout. If you are new to buttonholes, practice on scrap fabric first — a few practice holes will make the real one much neater.

Skipping the reinforcement step on lightweight fabrics causes the edges of the buttonhole to fray and tear. If you are working with cotton voile, linen, or other delicate fabric, consider adding a small patch of interfacing behind the buttonhole before you cut the slit. This gives the thread something stable to anchor to.

Buttonhole placement on different garment types

On a shirt front, buttonholes run vertically and sit about 1/2 inch from the center front edge. On a cuff, they run horizontally. On a waistband, they usually run horizontally as well. The rule is that the buttonhole should run parallel to the edge it is closest to, so the button sits flat against the fabric without twisting.

The distance from the edge matters for fit. If the buttonhole is too close to the edge, the button band may not overlap enough to hold the button securely. If it is too far from the edge, the button will pull away from the fabric. For most garments, 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the edge is standard.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size should a buttonhole be?

Measure your button across its widest point and add 1/8 inch. This gives enough room for the button to pass through without the hole being so large that the button falls out. Test the fit on scrap fabric first if you are unsure.

Can I sew a buttonhole on a machine without a buttonhole function?

No — a regular straight stitch will not hold the edges of the slit. You need either a machine with a buttonhole setting or the hand-sewing method with a blanket stitch. Hand-sewing works on any fabric and any garment.

What thread should I use for a hand-sewn buttonhole?

Use thread that matches your fabric in color and weight. For most garments, regular sewing thread works fine. For heavy coats or jackets, buttonhole thread (which is thicker) gives a more durable finish, but regular thread is acceptable.

Do I need to cut the slit before or after I sew the buttonhole?

For hand-sewing, cut the slit first, then sew the blanket stitch around it. For machine buttonholes, sew the buttonhole first (the machine stitches around a closed area), then cut the slit down the middle with a seam ripper.

How do I fix a buttonhole that is too large?

If you cut the slit too long, you cannot shrink it back. You can sew the buttonhole closed and cut a new one in a slightly different location, or you can patch over it and start again. This is why testing on scrap fabric first is important.