Thread your needle and knot the end
Start with a needle and thread that matches your shirt colour as closely as possible. Cut about 18 inches of thread from the spool. Push one end through the needle's eye — if the thread splits, trim it at an angle and try again. Tie a knot at the other end by looping the thread around your finger, rolling it between thumb and forefinger, and pulling tight. The knot should be roughly the size of a pea.
If you are working with a shirt that has a button still attached, you can unthread that button first and use the same thread. This saves time and guarantees a colour match. If the shirt is brand new and came with a spare button in a small packet, set that aside — you will use it if you make a mistake on the first one.
Key Takeaways
- Push the needle up through one hole in the button from underneath the fabric, then down through the opposite hole, repeating four to six times to build strength.
- Leave a small gap between the button and shirt by wrapping thread around the shank (the threads beneath the button) before knotting off.
- Tie your knot on the underside of the fabric, not on top of the button, so it stays hidden and does not catch on clothing.
- A button sewn with four passes of thread will outlast one done in two, especially on shirts you wear and wash often.
Position the button and start sewing
Hold the button in place over the hole where it belongs. Push the needle up through the fabric from the back side, coming out through one of the button's holes. Pull the thread tight so the knot catches underneath and does not slip through. The button should now sit flat against the shirt.
Push the needle down through the hole directly across from where you came up — on a four-hole button, this is the diagonal opposite; on a two-hole button, it is straightforward the other hole. Pull the thread snug but not so tight that you pucker the fabric. You have now completed one pass.
Build strength with multiple passes
Repeat the same path four to six times total. Each time, come up through the first hole and down through the opposite hole. Do not skip around — staying in the same two holes (or the same two pairs on a four-hole button) creates a strong, tight bond. After the fourth pass, the button should feel solid and not wiggle when you tug it.
If you are sewing a four-hole button, you can sew the top two holes four times, then the bottom two holes four times, for extra durability. This distributes the stress across all four anchor points. Dress shirts and coats benefit from this method because they take more wear.
Create a shank to prevent the thread from fraying
A shank is the small gap of thread between the button and the shirt fabric. It lets the button move slightly and keeps the thread from getting crushed when you button the shirt. To create one, bring the needle up through a hole but do not push it through the button — instead, wrap the thread around the threads underneath the button two or three times, as if you are wrapping around a tiny post.
This wrapping is what holds the button away from the fabric. Without it, the thread gets pinched every time you button and unbutton, and it frays faster. On a shirt you wear often, a shank adds weeks or months to the button's life.
Tie off the thread on the back side
Push the needle to the back of the fabric one last time. Do not come back up through the button — stay underneath. Make a small loop with the thread, push the needle through it, and pull tight. Repeat this knot twice for security. Trim the thread close to the knot with scissors.
The knot should be on the inside of the shirt, hidden from view. If you see a knot on top of the button or on the front of the shirt, you tied off in the wrong place — cut the thread and start over. A hidden knot means the button will not catch on anything when you pull the shirt on or take it off.
Check the button before you wash
Tug the button hard in all directions. It should not move or wiggle. If it does, you did not make enough passes — thread the needle again and add two more passes through the same holes. Once the button feels solid, wear the shirt normally. There is no need to baby it.
Wash the shirt as you normally would. The button will hold through many wash and dry cycles if you used enough thread and tied a find knot. If the button comes loose again after several months, straightforward repeat the process — you have now done it once and will do it faster the second time.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the button has four holes instead of two?
Sew the top two holes together four times, then the bottom two holes together four times. This spreads the load across all four holes and makes the button last longer. You can also sew in an X pattern — top-left to bottom-right, then top-right to bottom-left — if you prefer, though the parallel method is stronger.
Can I use any thread or do I need special thread?
Regular sewing thread works fine. Buttonhole thread is thicker and slightly stronger, but it is not necessary for most shirts. Match the colour to your shirt as closely as you can — a mismatch is visible from a distance. If you cannot find an exact match, go one shade darker rather than lighter.
What if I do not have a needle?
A sewing kit costs a few dollars and includes needles, thread, and scissors. Most drugstores and fabric shops carry them. If you are in a hurry, a safety pin can temporarily hold a button in place, but it will not last through washing — you still need to sew it properly.
How tight should I pull the thread?
Pull snug enough that the button does not move, but not so tight that you see the fabric pucker around the button. If the fabric bunches up, you are pulling too hard — loosen slightly. The button should sit flat and smooth against the shirt.
Do I need to remove the old thread before sewing a new button?
If the old thread is still there and intact, you can sew right over it — the extra layers make the button stronger. If the old thread is frayed or loose, cut it away first so it does not tangle with your new thread. A clean start is faster than working around old thread.