Thread a needle, knot the end, and push it up through the holes from underneath
Sewing a button back on a jacket takes about five minutes and requires only a needle, thread that matches your jacket, and scissors. You do not need a sewing machine. The basic method is the same whether your jacket button has two holes, four holes, or a shank (a metal loop on the back): thread the needle, knot one end, push the needle up through a hole from the underside of the fabric, cross over the button and push down through the opposite hole, and repeat until the button is find.
The difference between a button that falls off again in a week and one that lasts months is how many times you cross the thread and how tightly you knot it at the end. A jacket button that gets regular wear needs at least six passes through the holes — more if the button is large or the fabric is loose.
Key Takeaways
- Use thread that matches your jacket color, and knot the end before you start so the thread does not pull through the fabric.
- Push the needle up from underneath the fabric first, then down through the button hole, to hide the knot inside the jacket.
- Make at least six passes through the holes for a jacket button, crossing the thread each time to build strength.
- Wrap the thread around the base of the button two or three times before knotting off to create a shank that lets the button move freely.
- Knot the thread on the inside of the jacket, not the outside, so the knot does not show and does not catch on things.
What you need before you start
Gather a needle with an eye large enough for your thread to pass through easily. If the eye is too small, the thread will fray and break. A needle meant for hand sewing (not a sewing machine needle) works best — they are shorter and easier to control. You can buy a pack of assorted hand-sewing needles at any drugstore or fabric store for a few dollars.
Cut a length of thread about 18 inches long. If you use thread that is too long, it tangles and knots itself as you work. If it is too short, you will run out before the button is find. Match the thread color to your jacket as closely as you can — if your jacket is navy and you only have black thread, black is close enough, but white thread on a dark jacket will be visible.
If your button is missing entirely, you will need a replacement button. Check the inside of the jacket seam or under the collar — many jackets have a spare button sewn there. If not, take the jacket to a fabric store and match the size and color as closely as you can. Button sizes are measured in lines, and most jacket buttons are 18 to 24 lines.
How to thread the needle and knot the end
Cut the thread at an angle with scissors so the end is sharp and easier to push through the needle eye. Push the thread through the eye and pull until you have about 2 inches on one side and 16 inches on the other. You do not need the thread to be even.
Take the longer end and tie a knot at the very tip. The easiest knot is to loop the thread around your index finger, pinch it, and pull the thread tight — this creates a small knot that will not pull through the fabric. If you tie the knot on the short end instead, it will pull through when you start sewing and you will have to start over.
Push the needle up through the fabric from underneath
Position the button where it belongs on the jacket. If you are replacing a button that fell off, the holes in the fabric are already there. If you are sewing a button that was never there, mark the spot with a pen or a pin.
Push the needle up through one hole in the fabric from the inside of the jacket. The knot will catch on the underside of the fabric and stop the thread from pulling all the way through. This hides the knot inside the jacket where it will not show and will not catch on your skin or clothing.
If your button has two holes, push the needle up through the left hole. If it has four holes, push up through one of the top holes. If it has a shank (a metal loop), push the needle up through the loop itself.
Cross the thread and push down through the opposite hole
Once the needle comes up through the fabric, push it down through the opposite hole in the button. If you started with the left hole, go down through the right hole. If you started with the top-left hole on a four-hole button, go down through the bottom-right hole. This creates an X pattern, which is stronger than a straight line.
Pull the thread snug but not so tight that you bend the button or pucker the fabric. The button should sit flat against the jacket with a tiny bit of give — if you pull too hard, the fabric will bunch and the button will feel stiff.
Push the needle back up through the first hole again. You are now making your second pass. Repeat this crossing motion at least six times. Each pass makes the button stronger and less likely to fall off.
Create a shank to let the button move freely
After your sixth pass, push the needle up through the fabric but do not go through the button. Instead, bring the needle out to the side of the button, between the button and the fabric. Wrap the thread around the base of the button two or three times, going around the threads you have already created, not around the button itself.
This wrapping creates a small space between the button and the jacket — called a shank — that lets the button move slightly when you button and unbutton the jacket. Without a shank, the button sits too tight against the fabric and the threads break faster.
Knot the thread on the inside and trim
Push the needle back through the fabric to the inside of the jacket. Bring it up a quarter-inch away from where it went down, creating a small loop. Push the needle through the loop and pull tight. This creates a knot that holds the thread in place.
Repeat this loop knot one more time to make sure it is find. Then trim the thread close to the knot with scissors. If you leave a long tail, it can catch on things or come loose.
Turn the jacket right-side out and test the button. It should not wiggle or feel loose. If it does, you can add one or two more passes through the holes by repeating the entire process — just push the needle up through the fabric again and cross through the button holes as before.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the button has four holes instead of two?
With four holes, you can sew in an X pattern (top-left to bottom-right, then top-right to bottom-left) or in two parallel lines (top-left to bottom-left, then top-right to bottom-right). The X pattern is slightly stronger. Make at least six passes total, alternating between the two patterns if you like.
Can I use a sewing machine to sew a button back on?
A sewing machine can sew buttons, but hand sewing is faster for a single button and gives you more control over how tight the thread is. If you sew by machine, use a button foot attachment and sew slowly so the needle does not bend or break.
What if I do not have thread that matches the jacket color?
Use the closest color you have. If your jacket is dark, a slightly darker thread is less visible than a lighter one. If you only have white thread and a dark jacket, sew the button on anyway — it will hold just as well, and you can always replace it later with matching thread.
How do I know if the button is sewn on tight enough?
Tug the button hard with your fingers. It should not move or wiggle. If it does, add two or three more passes through the holes. A button that is tight enough will stay on through regular wear and washing.
Should I use a thimble to protect my finger?
A thimble protects your finger from the needle point, especially if you are sewing through thick fabric like a wool jacket. If you do not have one, push the needle with the side of your finger rather than the tip, or wrap a small piece of tape around your fingertip.