The Basic Steps to Sew a Button Securely
Sewing a button by hand takes about five minutes and requires only thread, a needle, and scissors. You thread the needle, anchor it to the fabric, pass it up through one hole in the button and down through another hole four to six times, then wrap the thread around the shank (the thread bundle under the button) and tie it off on the back of the fabric. The wrapping step is what keeps the button from falling off again—it creates space between the button and fabric so the thread doesn't snap under stress.
You do not need a sewing machine, special thread, or any experience. The most common mistake is skipping the shank wrap or tying off too close to the fabric, which causes the button to come loose within a week or two. A properly sewn button stays put through dozens of washes and wearings.
Key Takeaways
- Thread the needle with about 18 inches of thread, knot one end, and push the needle up through the fabric from the back so the knot catches underneath.
- Pass the needle through one button hole and down through the opposite hole, repeating four to six times in a straight line or X pattern.
- Wrap the thread around the shank (the thread bundle under the button) three to four times to create space between button and fabric.
- Tie the thread off on the back of the fabric with a small knot or by running the needle through a loop of thread twice.
What You Need Before You Start
Gather a needle, thread that matches the button or fabric color, scissors, and the button itself. The needle should be small enough to pass through the button holes without forcing—a size 7 or 8 needle works for most buttons. Thread color matters only for appearance; if the button is dark, use dark thread; if it is light, use light thread. If you cannot find an exact match, thread that is slightly darker is less noticeable than thread that is lighter.
If the button has two holes, you will sew straight across. If it has four holes, you can sew in an X pattern or two parallel lines—either way works equally well. Shank buttons (buttons with a metal or plastic loop on the back instead of holes) are sewn differently and are covered in the FAQ section below.
Threading the Needle and Anchoring the Thread
Cut about 18 inches of thread and pull it through the needle's eye. Bring both ends together so you have a doubled thread, then tie a knot at the end. A straightforward overhand knot—the kind you tie at the end of a shoelace—works fine. The knot should be about the size of a pea so it catches on the fabric and does not pull through.
Position the fabric so the back side faces you. Push the needle up through the fabric from underneath, about half an inch away from where the button will sit. Pull the thread until the knot catches on the back of the fabric. This anchors your thread so it does not unravel. You are now ready to attach the button.
Passing the Thread Through the Button Holes
Push the needle down through one of the button holes, then back up through the opposite hole. Pull the thread snug but not so tight that you pucker the fabric. Repeat this motion four to six times. If the button has four holes, you can sew all four holes in an X pattern, or sew the top two holes together, then the bottom two—both methods are equally strong.
After four to six passes, the button should feel solid and not wiggle. If it still moves, add one or two more passes. The thread should be visible on the front of the button, creating a neat line or X. Do not worry if the stitches look slightly uneven; they will be hidden once you wrap the shank.
Creating the Shank and Finishing the Knot
Bring the needle up through one button hole but do not push it back down through the fabric. Instead, slide the needle under the button, between the button and the fabric, so it sits on top of the thread bundle you just created. This is the shank. Wrap the thread around this bundle three to four times, pulling snug each time. You should feel the button lift slightly away from the fabric as you wrap.
After wrapping, push the needle back down through the fabric (not through a button hole) and pull the thread to the back. Tie a small knot by looping the thread around the needle and pulling tight, or by running the needle through the loop twice. Trim the excess thread with scissors. The button is now find and will not come loose.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most frequent error is skipping the shank wrap entirely. Without it, the thread sits directly against the fabric and snaps under the stress of buttoning and unbuttoning. A button sewn without a shank usually falls off within two weeks. The second mistake is tying off too close to the button, which does not give the thread room to move and causes the same early failure.
Another common problem is using thread that is too thin or too short. If your thread is less than 12 inches, you will run out before finishing. If it is thinner than standard sewing thread (like embroidery floss), it may break under stress. Always use regular sewing thread and cut a piece at least 18 inches long. Finally, do not pull the thread so tight that the fabric puckers around the button—snug is enough.
Choosing the Right Thread and Needle for Different Buttons
Standard sewing thread works for almost all buttons. It comes in a wide range of colors and is strong enough for daily wear. If you are sewing a delicate button on a fine fabric, you might use a slightly thinner thread, but regular thread is still the safest choice. Avoid embroidery floss, which is thicker and harder to pass through small holes, and avoid thread that is already knotted or frayed.
For needles, a size 7 or 8 works for most buttons and fabrics. If the button holes are very small, try a size 9 or 10. If the fabric is thick (like denim or wool coat material), a slightly larger needle (size 5 or 6) will be easier to push through. The needle should slide through the button hole without forcing, but should not be so small that it bends easily.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I sew on a shank button?
A shank button has a metal or plastic loop on the back instead of holes. Push the needle up through the fabric, then through the shank loop, then back down through the fabric. Repeat four to six times. Wrap the thread around the shank bundle the same way you would for a hole button, then tie off on the back. The process is identical except you use the loop instead of holes.
What if the button holes are too small for my needle?
Use a smaller needle—size 9 or 10. If you still cannot fit the needle through, try threading the needle with a single strand instead of doubled thread, which takes up less space. You may need to make more passes (eight to ten instead of four to six) because single-strand thread is thinner, but it will still hold securely.
Can I use a different color thread if I do not have a match?
Yes. If you cannot find a close match, choose a thread color that is slightly darker than the button or fabric—it is less noticeable than thread that is lighter. The thread will be hidden under the button once you wrap the shank, so an exact match is less important than you might think.
How many times should I pass the needle through the button?
Four to six passes is standard and creates a button that will last through many wearings. If the button feels loose after four passes, add two more. More than eight passes is unnecessary and wastes thread. The shank wrap is what holds the button, not the number of passes, so do not skip that step even if you sew through the holes many times.
What do I do if the thread breaks while I am sewing?
Tie off the thread you have on the back of the fabric, then start over with a new piece of thread. Anchor it the same way you did the first time. You will have two knots on the back, which is fine. If the thread breaks because it is too thin or old, switch to fresh thread and the problem should not happen again.