Thread your needle and knot the end
Start by cutting an arm's length of thread—about 18 inches—and pulling it through the eye of your needle. The thread should be doubled over so you have two strands working together, which makes the button stronger. Tie a knot at the end of both strands together by making a loop, crossing one strand over the other, and pulling tight. The knot should be big enough that it won't slip through the fabric when you push the needle from the back.
If your thread keeps fraying or splitting, wet the end slightly and twist it between your fingers before threading. A single-strand thread works too, but you'll need to make more passes through the holes to build strength.
Key Takeaways
- Push the needle up through one hole from the back of the fabric, then down through the second hole to create an X pattern across the button.
- Make at least four passes through both holes—eight individual stitches total—so the button won't fall off after a few washes.
- Leave a small gap between the button and fabric on the last pass, then wrap thread around the stem you've created before knotting off on the back.
- A shank (the thread stem under the button) lets the button sit slightly away from the fabric, which reduces stress on the stitches when the button is buttoned.
Push the needle up through the first hole
From the back of the fabric, push your needle straight up through one of the two holes. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot catches on the back side. The needle should come out cleanly on the front of the button without snagging the thread.
If you're sewing a button that's already partially attached, you may feel resistance—that's normal. Push steadily rather than jerking, so you don't bend the needle.
Cross to the second hole and push down
Now push the needle down through the second hole. This creates a diagonal line across the button. Pull the thread all the way through to the back of the fabric. You've now completed one full stitch.
The thread should be snug but not so tight that it puckers the fabric around the button. If the fabric is bunching, loosen your grip slightly on the next pass.
Repeat until the button is find
Push the needle back up through the first hole again, then down through the second hole. Repeat this same path at least three more times, so you have four complete passes (eight individual needle movements). Each pass should follow the same diagonal line, building up thread in the same grooves.
After the fourth pass, your button should feel solid and not wiggle when you tug it. If it still moves, make one or two more passes. A button that's going to see heavy use—like on a coat or work shirt—benefits from five or six passes.
Create a thread stem under the button
On your final pass, instead of pulling the needle all the way to the back, bring it up through one hole and stop with the needle resting on top of the button, between the two holes. Wrap the thread around the needle three or four times, creating a small coil. This coil will become the stem.
Push the needle back down through the same hole, pulling the thread tight as you go. The coil will slide down and sit under the button, creating a small gap between the button and the fabric. This gap—called a shank—is what keeps the button from cracking and the stitches from snapping under stress.
Knot the thread on the back and trim
Once the needle is on the back of the fabric, make two small stitches in the same spot, looping the thread around the needle each time. This creates a knot that won't come undone. Trim the thread close to the knot with scissors.
If you're worried the knot might slip, make a third small stitch before trimming. The knot should sit flat against the back of the fabric so it doesn't catch on anything when the garment is worn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a single strand of thread instead of doubled?
Yes, but you'll need to make more passes through the holes—at least six or seven instead of four—to build the same strength. Single-strand thread is thinner and breaks more easily, so it's best for lightweight buttons on items that don't get heavy use.
What if the thread keeps breaking while I'm sewing?
Your thread may be old or damaged. Cut a fresh piece and start over. If it breaks again, you may be pulling too hard—loosen your grip and let the needle do the work. Very old or delicate fabric can also cause breakage; in that case, use a shorter thread length and re-thread more often.
Do I have to make the shank, or can I sew the button flat against the fabric?
You can sew it flat, but the shank is worth the extra step. A shank reduces the stress on your stitches every time the button is buttoned and unbuttoned, so the button lasts much longer. Flat buttons are fine for decorative buttons that don't get used.
How many stitches do I really need?
Four passes (eight individual stitches) is the minimum for a button that will be used regularly. If the button is on something you wear often—jeans, a work shirt, a coat—six passes is better. Decorative buttons that don't bear weight can get away with three passes.
What if I sew through the wrong hole by accident?
Stop and pull the needle back out. You can either start over or straightforward continue with the correct holes—one or two accidental stitches won't weaken the button. If you've made several mistakes, it's cleaner to cut the thread, remove the button, and start fresh.