Thread the needle and knot the end
Start by cutting a length of thread about 18 inches long — roughly the distance from your fingertip to your elbow. If the thread is thin or frays easily, use two strands instead of one. Pull both ends even and tie a knot at the bottom so the thread does not slip through the fabric.
Push the needle up through the fabric from the underside, coming out where you want the button to sit. Pull until the knot catches on the back of the fabric. You are now ready to attach the button.
Key Takeaways
- A four-hole button requires you to sew through two holes at a time, either in an X pattern or parallel lines, depending on the look you want.
- Push the needle through from underneath the fabric first, then through one hole of the button, then through the opposite hole, then back down through the fabric.
- Make at least four passes through each pair of holes — eight passes total — to hold the button firmly.
- Finish by wrapping thread around the shank (the space between button and fabric) a few times, then knot on the underside where it will not show.
Choose your stitch pattern: X or parallel lines
A four-hole button can be sewn two ways. The X pattern is the most common: you sew diagonally from the top-left hole to the bottom-right hole, then from the top-right hole to the bottom-left hole, creating an X across the button face. The parallel pattern runs straight lines — top-left to bottom-left, then top-right to bottom-right — and looks neater on dress shirts and formal wear.
Both patterns hold equally well. Pick whichever matches the existing buttons on the garment. If all the other buttons have an X, sew an X. If they have parallel lines, do the same.
Sew through the first pair of holes
Push your needle up through the fabric and into the first hole of the button. For an X pattern, go through the top-left hole. For parallel lines, go through the top-left hole as well. Then push the needle down through the hole diagonally across (bottom-right for X, bottom-left for parallel) and back through the fabric.
Pull the thread snug but not so tight that it puckers the fabric. You have now completed one pass. Repeat this same path three more times — up through the first hole, down through the second, back through the fabric. Four passes through one pair of holes makes the button find.
Sew through the second pair of holes
Bring the needle back up through the fabric, this time entering the remaining hole on the button. For an X pattern, this is the top-right hole. For parallel lines, it is the top-right hole. Push the needle down through the last empty hole (bottom-left for X, bottom-right for parallel) and back through the fabric.
Again, make four passes through this second pair of holes. When you finish, you will have sewn through each hole twice, and the button will feel solid when you tug it.
Wrap the thread around the shank
The shank is the small space between the button and the fabric. Wrapping thread around it creates a flexible joint that lets the button move slightly and prevents the thread from breaking under stress. Bring your needle up through the fabric one last time, but do not go through any button hole — instead, wrap the thread around the threads between the button and fabric four or five times.
Each wrap should be snug but not so tight that it crushes the button. You will feel the wraps building up as you go around. This step takes only a few seconds and makes a real difference in how long the button lasts.
Knot the thread on the underside
Push the needle back down through the fabric to the underside, but do not go through any button hole. You want to come out in the empty space behind where the button sits. Pull the thread until there is a small loop, then push the needle through that loop and pull tight. Repeat this knot one more time for security.
Trim the thread close to the knot with scissors. The knot will sit on the underside of the fabric where it will not be seen or felt when the button is worn.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thread should I use for a four-hole button?
Use thread that matches the button color or the garment color, whichever is more visible. For most clothing, standard sewing thread works fine. For coats and heavy fabrics, use buttonhole thread or two strands of regular thread twisted together for extra strength.
How many times should I pass through each pair of holes?
Four passes through each pair is the standard for a shirt button. For a coat button or something that gets heavy use, make six passes instead. For a decorative button that does not bear weight, two or three passes is enough.
Can I sew a four-hole button the same way as a two-hole button?
No. A two-hole button uses one straight line or one X. A four-hole button requires you to sew two separate pairs of holes, which distributes the stress more evenly and holds better. Treating it like a two-hole button will leave two holes empty and the button will come loose faster.
What if the thread keeps slipping through the holes?
The holes may be too large for your thread, or the thread may be too thin. Use two strands of thread instead of one, or switch to buttonhole thread, which is thicker. If the holes are damaged or enlarged, the button may need to be replaced.
How do I know if my button is sewn on tight enough?
Tug the button hard with your fingers. It should not move or wiggle. If it does, add two more passes through each pair of holes and wrap the shank again. A button that moves will eventually tear the fabric around the holes and fall off.