The Basic Collar Sewing Process
A collar is sewn in layers: you stitch two fabric pieces together with right sides facing, trim and turn it right-side out, press it flat, then attach it to the neckline with a combination of machine and hand stitching. The whole process takes about an hour for a beginner, and the result looks professional if you follow the order and don't skip the pressing steps. The key is stitching the collar seam first, turning it, then attaching it as a finished unit to the garment.
Most collars follow the same basic structure whether they're shirt collars, peter pan collars, or stand collars. The method changes slightly depending on whether your pattern includes a collar facing (a separate fabric layer) or whether the collar attaches directly to the neckline, but the core steps remain the same.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two collar pieces and stitch them together with right sides facing, leaving the neckline edge open for turning.
- Trim seam allowances to one-quarter inch, clip corners diagonally, and turn the collar right-side out through the neckline opening.
- Press the collar flat with the seam rolled slightly to the underside so stitching doesn't show on the front.
- Pin the collar to the garment neckline with raw edges aligned, stitch it in place by machine, then fold the seam allowance under and hand-stitch it to the inside for a clean finish.
- The hand-stitching step is what makes a collar look professionally finished rather than homemade.
Cutting and Preparing Your Collar Pieces
Start with two collar pieces cut from your pattern. If your pattern calls for interfacing (a stabilizing fabric layer), fuse it to the wrong side of one collar piece before you begin sewing. Interfacing gives the collar structure and prevents it from rolling or wrinkling; it's especially important for pointed collars or collars that stand up. Follow your pattern's instructions for which weight of interfacing to use—lightweight for soft fabrics like cotton lawn, medium weight for everyday cotton or linen.
Lay both collar pieces on a flat surface and check that the edges line up evenly. If you're cutting by hand, use sharp scissors and cut slowly along the pattern line. If your pattern has a fold line marked, make sure you understand whether you're cutting two separate pieces or one piece folded in half. Many collar patterns are cut on the fold, which means you cut only one piece and it opens into two layers.
Stitching the Collar Seam
Place the two collar pieces with right sides facing (the pretty sides touching each other). Pin along the three outer edges—the two pointed ends and the curved outer edge—leaving the neckline edge (the straight edge that will attach to the garment) completely unpinned and open. This opening is how you'll turn the collar right-side out later.
Stitch along the pinned edges using a straight stitch and a seam allowance that matches your pattern, usually one-half inch. Start and stop at the neckline edge; don't stitch across it. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Sew slowly around curves and corners so your stitching line stays smooth and even.
Trimming, Clipping, and Turning
After stitching, trim the seam allowance down to one-quarter inch all the way around the three sewn edges. This reduces bulk so the collar doesn't look thick and lumpy when you turn it. Use sharp scissors or pinking shears and cut parallel to your stitching line.
At the two pointed corners, clip diagonally across the seam allowance corner, cutting close to (but not through) your stitching. This diagonal cut lets the corner fold flat when you turn the collar instead of bunching up. On curved edges, make small perpendicular cuts into the seam allowance every half-inch or so; these clips let the curve lie smooth.
Turn the collar right-side out through the neckline opening. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to gently push the corners out from the inside. Be careful not to poke through the fabric. Once the collar is turned, use your fingers to work the seam line to the very edge so it's crisp and even all the way around.
Pressing the Collar Flat
Press the collar with an iron on the heat setting appropriate for your fabric. The pressing step is what separates a homemade-looking collar from a finished one. As you press, roll the seam slightly toward the underside (the side that will be hidden inside the garment) so the stitching line sits just barely on the back. This means the front of the collar looks seamless.
Press the neckline edge flat as well, even though it's still open. Fold the seam allowance on the neckline edge to the inside and press it; this crease will guide you when you hand-stitch later. Let the collar cool completely before you move it—this sets the press and keeps the shape crisp.
Attaching the Collar to the Garment Neckline
Pin the collar to the garment neckline with the raw edges aligned. The collar should sit between the two layers of the neckline (the garment body and the facing, if your pattern has one). Check that the collar is centered and sits evenly all the way around. If your pattern has markings for where the collar should sit—often at the shoulder seams or center front—line those up first.
Stitch the collar in place by machine using the same seam allowance as your pattern specifies. Backstitch at the beginning and end. This machine stitching holds the collar securely and is the structural seam that bears the stress of wearing.
Hand-Stitching the Collar Facing for a Finished Edge
After the machine stitching, fold the seam allowance of the collar facing (or the garment's neckline facing) over the raw edges and pin it down. The fold should cover the machine stitching line by about one-quarter inch. This fold is what you pressed earlier, so it should already want to fold in the right direction.
Using a needle and thread that matches your fabric, hand-stitch the fold down using a slip stitch (also called a ladder stitch). Bring the needle up through the fold, then slide it horizontally inside the fold for about one-quarter inch, come back out, and go down through the garment layer just opposite where you came out. The stitches should be invisible from the outside. Work your way all the way around the neckline, keeping your stitches small and even.
This hand-stitching is the final step that makes the collar look professionally finished. It's worth taking your time on this part—uneven or visible hand-stitching is what usually makes a homemade garment look homemade.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between a collar with a facing and a collar without one?
A collar with a facing has a separate fabric layer (the facing) that covers the seam allowances on the inside of the neckline. A collar without a facing attaches directly to the garment, and you fold the garment's own seam allowance over to cover the raw edges. Most patterns tell you which method to use; if yours doesn't specify, check whether your pattern pieces include a separate facing piece.
Can I use a serger instead of hand-stitching the facing?
A serger finishes the raw edges neatly, but it doesn't find the facing the way hand-stitching does. Many sewers use a serger to finish the raw edges first, then hand-stitch the facing down for security. If you only serge, the facing may shift or peel away with wear.
My collar corners aren't coming out sharp. What went wrong?
You likely didn't clip the corners diagonally before turning, or you didn't push the corners out far enough after turning. Next time, cut the diagonal clip closer to the stitching (but don't cut through it), and use a point turner to really work the corner out from the inside. Pressing also helps—a good press can make a slightly rounded corner look sharper.
How do I keep the collar from rolling or curling after I wear the garment?
Interfacing is the main thing that prevents rolling. Make sure you used the weight of interfacing your pattern called for. Also, pressing the collar regularly (even just with your hands after washing) helps maintain the shape. Some sewers lightly starch collars to keep them crisp.
What if my collar is supposed to stand up instead of lying flat?
A stand collar uses the same basic sewing method, but you don't roll the seam to the back when you press—instead, you press it straight. The collar stands up naturally because of the way it's cut and interfaced. Follow your pattern's pressing instructions; they'll tell you whether to roll the seam or press it straight.