Sewing a collar onto a shirt means attaching a separate collar piece to the neckline using a sewing machine and hand-stitching
A collar is sewn in two stages: first you stitch the collar pieces together, then you attach that finished collar to the shirt body. The process takes about an hour for a beginner and involves sewing a seam around the outer edge of the collar, turning it right-side out, and then topstitching it to the neckline. You will need a sewing machine, thread that matches your fabric, a needle, pins, scissors, and an iron.
The most common mistake is sewing the collar pieces with the wrong sides facing each other, which leaves raw seams visible when you turn it right-side out. Another frequent problem is not pressing the collar flat before attaching it to the shirt, which makes the final seam look uneven. This guide walks you through both stages in the order you will actually do them.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two collar pieces from your pattern, place them with right sides together, and sew around three sides, leaving the bottom edge open for turning.
- Trim the seam allowance to one-quarter inch, clip the corners at an angle, and turn the collar right-side out through the opening.
- Press the collar flat with an iron, fold the raw edges inward at the bottom, and pin it to the shirt neckline before sewing.
- Sew the collar to the shirt using a straight stitch, then hand-stitch the folded bottom edge closed for a professional finish.
Prepare your collar pieces and pattern
Lay out your fabric on a flat surface and place your collar pattern piece on top. Pin the pattern to the fabric so it does not shift while you cut. Use sharp fabric scissors to cut along the pattern edge, cutting through both layers if your pattern calls for two pieces. Mark the bottom edge of the collar with a pencil or fabric pen—this is the edge that will attach to the shirt and should remain open during the first sewing step.
Check that both collar pieces are the same size and shape. If you are cutting from a single layer of fabric, cut two separate pieces and lay them on top of each other to compare. Any difference in size will show when you attach the collar to the shirt. Once both pieces are cut and marked, you are ready to pin them together for sewing.
Sew the collar pieces together
Place the two collar pieces with their right sides facing each other—this means the sides you want to show on the finished shirt are touching. Pin around three sides of the collar, leaving the bottom edge (the one you marked) unpinned. This bottom edge is where you will turn the collar right-side out later.
Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric color. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. Sew along the three pinned sides, starting at one corner of the bottom edge and sewing around to the other corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Sew about one-quarter inch from the edge—this is your seam allowance, and it should be consistent all the way around.
When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner instead of a rounded one. After sewing all three sides, remove the pins and take the collar out of the machine.
Trim and turn the collar right-side out
Trim the seam allowance you just sewed down to one-quarter inch using sharp scissors. This removes bulk so the collar will lie flat when turned. At each of the two corners, trim the seam allowance at a 45-degree angle, cutting away the corner triangle. This step is critical—without it, the corners will bunch up when you turn the collar right-side out.
Reach through the open bottom edge and grab the collar from the inside. Gently pull the collar through the opening, turning it right-side out. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out fully from the inside. The seams should now be hidden inside the collar, and the right side of the fabric should be facing outward.
Once the collar is turned, press it flat with an iron set to the temperature recommended for your fabric. Press from both sides, paying special attention to the seams and corners. A well-pressed collar will look crisp and professional when attached to the shirt.
Fold and pin the collar to the shirt neckline
Fold the raw edges of the open bottom edge inward by one-quarter inch and press them flat with the iron. This creates a finished edge that will look neat when hand-stitched closed later. Pin the folded edges together to hold them in place while you attach the collar to the shirt.
Now position the collar on the shirt neckline. The folded bottom edge of the collar should sit on top of the shirt neckline, with the seam allowance of the shirt hidden underneath. Pin the collar all the way around the neckline, spacing pins about two inches apart. Make sure the collar is centered and sits evenly on both sides of the front opening. Step back and look at the shirt from the front—the collar should look balanced and not twisted.
Sew the collar to the shirt
Thread your sewing machine with matching thread and sew the collar to the shirt using a straight stitch. Sew along the folded bottom edge of the collar, about one-eighth inch from the fold. This seam will be visible on the outside of the shirt, so keep it straight and consistent. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Sew all the way around the neckline, removing pins as you approach them. When you reach the end, overlap your stitches with the beginning stitches by about one-half inch to lock the seam. Remove the shirt from the machine and press the neckline seam flat with the iron.
Hand-stitch the collar opening closed
The opening at the bottom of the collar where you turned it right-side out still needs to be closed by hand. Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread that matches your fabric. Knot the end of the thread.
Slide the needle through the fold of one side of the opening so the knot hides inside the fold. Bring the needle out and take a small stitch (about one-eighth inch) through the opposite fold. Slide the needle through the fold for about one-quarter inch, then bring it back out and take another small stitch through the opposite side. Continue this pattern, called a ladder stitch, all the way across the opening. The stitches will be nearly invisible because they run inside the folds. When you reach the end, knot the thread inside the fold and trim it.
Press and finish the collar
Give the entire collar a final press with the iron to set all the seams and remove any wrinkles from handling. Press from the inside of the shirt first, then from the outside. The collar should now be firmly attached and look like a professional garment.
Try on the shirt and check that the collar sits smoothly against your neck and lies flat against the shoulders. If any seams are puckered or uneven, you can carefully remove a few stitches, adjust the fabric, and re-sew that section. Most collars look better after one or two wearings and a wash, as the fabric relaxes slightly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my collar pieces are cut from different fabric than the shirt?
Sew them the same way—the process does not change. Just make sure your thread color matches the collar fabric for the first sewing stage (when you join the two collar pieces), then switch to thread that matches the shirt fabric when you attach the collar to the neckline. Press each fabric at the temperature it needs to avoid damage.
Can I use a serger instead of a sewing machine?
A serger will sew the seams faster and finish the raw edges at the same time, but you still need to trim the seam allowance before turning the collar. Hand-stitching the opening closed works the same way. If you use a serger, test it on scrap fabric first to make sure the stitch length and tension look right on your collar fabric.
How do I fix a collar that is bunched or puckered?
Puckering usually means the seam allowance was not trimmed short enough before turning, or the corners were not clipped. If the collar is already attached, you can carefully pick out a few stitches, trim more seam allowance away, and re-sew. If the bunching is minor, pressing with steam often relaxes it enough that it is not noticeable.
What stitch length should I use for a delicate fabric?
Use a shorter stitch length—1.5 to 2.0 millimeters instead of 2.0 to 2.5—so the seam is stronger and less likely to tear. Delicate fabrics also benefit from a walking foot on your sewing machine, which feeds the fabric evenly and prevents puckering. Test on a scrap of your fabric before sewing the actual collar.
Do I need to interface the collar?
Interfacing is a layer of fabric fused to the wrong side of the collar to add structure and help it hold its shape. It is optional for soft, drapey collars but recommended for crisp collars that need to stand up. If you use interfacing, fuse it to one collar piece before pinning the two pieces together, then sew as described above.