How to Measure and Mark the New Hem Length
The first step is deciding exactly how short you want the dress to be. Put on the dress with the shoes you plan to wear it with, because heel height changes where the hem should sit. Stand in front of a mirror and have someone mark the new length with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk while you stand still—do not sit down, since sitting changes how fabric drapes.
Measure from the floor up to that mark, then measure from the floor up to the current hem on the dress. Write both numbers down. The difference is how much fabric you need to remove. For example, if the dress currently hits at 36 inches from the floor and you want it at 28 inches, you are removing 8 inches total.
Try the dress on again and have your helper mark a straight line all the way around the dress at the new length, using tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. Step out of the dress carefully without disturbing the marks. Use a ruler or measuring tape to check that the marked line is the same distance from the floor all the way around—uneven marks are the most common mistake at this stage.
Key Takeaways
- Mark the new hem length while wearing the dress with the shoes you will wear it with, because heel height affects where the hem should sit.
- Add 1 to 1.5 inches of extra fabric below your marked line before cutting, so you have room to fold and stitch the new hem.
- Cut straight across the dress using sharp fabric scissors, and try it on before you sew to make sure the length is correct.
- A straightforward folded hem works for most dresses; fold the raw edge up twice and stitch it down by hand or machine for a clean finish.
- Press the finished hem with an iron to make it lie flat and look professional.
Cutting the Dress to Length
Before you cut, add 1 to 1.5 inches of extra fabric below your marked line. This extra fabric becomes your new hem allowance—the part you will fold up and stitch. Mark this second line with chalk or pencil, running parallel to your first line all the way around the dress.
Lay the dress flat on a clean table or cutting surface. Use sharp fabric scissors (not paper scissors, which will dull the blades) and cut slowly along the line you marked for the hem allowance. Cut straight across, not at an angle. If the dress has a curved or A-line shape, the cut will naturally follow that curve as long as you keep your scissors perpendicular to the fabric.
Try the dress on when ready after cutting, before you do any sewing. This is your final note to check the length without having to unpick stitches. If it is still too long, you can cut more. If it looks right, you are ready to hem.
Preparing the Raw Edge for Hemming
The cut edge of the fabric is raw and will fray if you do not finish it. For a dress made of cotton, linen, or a cotton blend, the simplest finish is a folded hem. Fold the raw edge up by half an inch and press it with an iron to crease it. Then fold it up again by another half inch to one inch, enclosing the raw edge inside the fold. Press again.
If your dress is made of a knit fabric like jersey or stretch cotton, the edge may not fray as badly, but folding it still gives a neater finish. For very delicate or slippery fabrics like silk or rayon, you may want to use a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine to finish the raw edge before folding the hem. This prevents the edge from unraveling as you wear and wash the dress.
Pin the folded hem in place all the way around the dress, spacing pins about 3 to 4 inches apart. The pins hold the fold steady while you stitch and prevent the hem from shifting.
Hand Sewing the Hem
Hand sewing a hem takes longer than machine sewing but gives you more control and is less likely to pucker the fabric. Thread a needle with thread that matches the dress color. Knot the end of the thread.
Start at a seam or an inconspicuous spot on the dress. Bring the needle up through the fold of the hem from the inside, so the knot stays hidden. Take a tiny stitch (about one-eighth inch) through the fold, then bring the needle out and take a small stitch into the dress fabric just above the fold—about one-quarter inch up. The stitch into the dress should catch only a few threads on the surface, not go all the way through to the outside. Repeat this pattern all the way around the dress, keeping your stitches small and evenly spaced.
When you reach the end, make several small stitches in the same spot to find the thread, then knot it and trim the excess. The stitches should be nearly invisible from the outside of the dress because they catch only the inner fold and a few threads of the dress fabric.
Machine Sewing the Hem
Machine sewing is faster and creates a stronger seam, which is useful if the dress gets heavy wear. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Use thread that matches the dress color.
Position the dress under the presser foot so the needle will stitch close to the inner fold of the hem, about one-quarter inch from the fold. Sew slowly and steadily all the way around the dress, removing pins as you approach them. Keep the fabric flat and do not pull it—let the machine feed it through.
When you reach the starting point, overlap your stitches by about half an inch, then backstitch to find the seam. Trim any loose thread ends. The machine stitch will be visible on the inside of the dress but not on the outside, and it will hold up through many washes.
Pressing and Finishing the Hem
After you finish stitching, press the entire hem with an iron set to the temperature appropriate for your fabric. Check the dress label for the recommended heat setting. Press from the inside of the dress, using a pressing cloth if the fabric is delicate. Press from the hem upward toward the body of the dress, smoothing out any wrinkles or puckers.
Turn the dress right-side out and press the hem from the outside as well, using the same gentle technique. A well-pressed hem lies flat and looks professional. Let the dress cool completely before trying it on, since warm fabric can shift and give you a false sense of how it hangs.
Try the dress on one final time to confirm the length is correct and the hem sits evenly all the way around. If you notice any spots where the stitching is loose or the fold is uneven, you can add a few extra stitches by hand to reinforce those areas.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most common error is cutting off too much fabric at once. Always leave extra hem allowance and try the dress on before sewing. If you cut too short, you cannot add fabric back.
Uneven hems happen when you do not mark the new length carefully or when you do not check that your marked line is parallel to the floor all the way around. Take time with the marking step—it determines everything that comes after.
Puckered or wavy hems usually result from pulling the fabric too hard while sewing by machine, or from using stitches that are too tight. Let the machine feed the fabric naturally, and use a stitch length of 2 to 2.5 millimeters rather than shorter.
Visible stitches on the outside of the dress mean your hand stitches went too deep into the dress fabric, or your machine stitches are too close to the edge of the fold. Practice on a scrap of fabric first if you are unsure about stitch depth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a sewing machine if I have never used one before?
Yes. A straight stitch on a sewing machine is one of the easiest stitches to learn. Practice on scrap fabric first to get a feel for how fast the needle moves and how to guide the fabric. Most machines have a speed control, so you can sew slowly while you learn. Hand sewing takes longer but requires no machine experience at all.
What if my dress has a lace or decorative trim on the hem?
If the trim is sewn on, you will need to remove it before you shorten the dress. Use a seam ripper to carefully cut and pull out the stitches holding the trim. Once you have hemmed the dress to the new length, you can sew the trim back on if you want, or leave it off for a simpler look.
How much shorter can I make a dress?
You can remove as much as you need, as long as the dress still fits your body and looks proportional. A general guideline is that a dress should hit somewhere between mid-thigh and the knee for most occasions, but this depends on your height, the dress style, and your personal preference. Try it on at different lengths before you cut.
Do I need special thread to match my dress?
Thread that matches the dress color blends in best, but it does not have to be an exact match—a shade slightly lighter or darker usually works fine. If you cannot find a close match, neutral colors like tan, gray, or white work for most fabrics. The thread is less visible on the inside of the hem anyway.
What if the dress is stretchy or made of knit fabric?
Knit fabrics need a slightly different approach. Use a ballpoint needle in your sewing machine, which slides between fibers rather than piercing them. A stretch stitch or narrow zigzag stitch is more flexible than a straight stitch and will not break when the fabric moves. Hand sewing works too, but use a ballpoint hand needle and make sure your stitches are loose enough to stretch with the fabric.