Start by Pinning the Dress to Find Your New Seams
The safest way to make a dress smaller is to take in the seams—that is, sew new seam lines closer to the body than the original ones. Before you cut or sew anything, put the dress on inside-out and have someone pin it to fit you properly. If you are alone, pin it on yourself in front of a mirror, working one side at a time. Pin along the side seams, the back seam if there is one, and the armholes if they are too loose.
The pins should run parallel to the original seam, marking where your new seam will go. Stand still for a few minutes to make sure the fit feels right when you move your arms and sit down. Take a photo of each pinned side so you remember the exact placement. Once you are satisfied, carefully remove the dress and lay it flat on your work surface.
Key Takeaways
- Always pin the dress on your body first to mark the new seam lines before cutting or sewing anything.
- Take in seams gradually—remove no more than one-half inch from each side seam at first, then try the dress on again.
- Use tailor's chalk or a fabric pen to transfer the pinned lines to the fabric so you can see them clearly when you sew.
- Sew the new seams by hand using a backstitch or by machine, staying inside the old seam line so you can unpick it later if needed.
- Try on the dress after each adjustment and leave the old seams in place until you are certain the fit is permanent.
Mark Your New Seam Lines with Chalk or Pen
Once the dress is pinned and laid flat, use tailor's chalk or a fabric pen to draw along the inside of the pins. Draw a line that runs from the top of the seam to the bottom, staying about one-quarter to one-half inch inside the original seam. This line is your sewing guide. If you are taking in the armholes, mark those carefully too—armholes are tricky because they curve, so take your time.
Remove the pins as you mark so you can see the chalk line clearly. Step back and look at both sides of the dress to make sure the lines are even. If one side is wider than the other, adjust the chalk line so the dress will hang straight. Mark the front and back separately if the dress has both, and mark the sleeves if they need to come in as well.
Sew the New Seams by Hand or Machine
You can sew the new seams by hand or by machine—both work, but machine sewing is faster and more even. If you are using a sewing machine, thread it with thread that matches the dress fabric, set the stitch length to a medium setting (about 2.5 on most machines), and sew slowly along your chalk line. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread. If you are sewing by hand, use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand stitch for seams. Make your stitches small and even, about one-eighth inch apart.
Sew one seam at a time and try the dress on after each one. This way, if the fit is not right, you can adjust the next seam before you sew it. Do not cut away the old seam yet—leave it in place so you have something to unpick if you need to let the dress back out.
Try On the Dress and Check the Fit
After you sew each seam, put the dress on right-side-out and check how it fits. Move your arms, bend, sit down, and walk around. The dress should feel snug but not tight, and it should not pull or bunch anywhere. If the fit is still not right, take the dress off, mark a new line closer to or farther from the body, and sew again. You can sew over the old line or next to it—the old seam will stay hidden inside the dress.
Keep trying on and adjusting until the dress fits the way you want. This takes patience, but it is worth it because you will end up with a dress that actually fits your body instead of guessing and cutting too much away.
Trim the Old Seam Allowance Once You Are Sure
Once the dress fits perfectly and you have worn it a few times to make sure, you can trim away the old seam allowance. Turn the dress inside-out and use sharp scissors to cut away the fabric between your new seam and the old seam, leaving about one-quarter inch of fabric beyond your new stitches. This is called the seam allowance, and it keeps the seam from fraying and falling apart.
If the fabric frays easily, finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch on your machine or by hand with a whip stitch. This step is not required, but it makes the dress last longer. Once you trim the old seam, you cannot let the dress back out, so be absolutely certain of the fit before you cut.
Handle Curved Seams Like Armholes and Necklines Carefully
Armholes and necklines curve, which means taking them in requires a bit more care than straight side seams. When you sew a curved seam, the fabric on the inside of the curve (the part closer to your body) is shorter than the fabric on the outside. To make the curve lie flat, you may need to clip small notches into the seam allowance after you sew—but only on the inside curve, and only after you have tried the dress on and are certain of the fit.
Clip notches about one-quarter inch deep and one-half inch apart, being careful not to cut into your new seam. These notches let the fabric spread slightly so it does not bunch or pull. If you are new to sewing curves, practice on a scrap of fabric first, or take the dress to a tailor for the armholes and do the side seams yourself.
Avoid Common Mistakes When Taking In a Dress
The most common mistake is removing too much fabric at once. If you take in more than one-half inch per side seam, the dress can end up too tight or the proportions can look wrong. Take in a little, try it on, and adjust. Another mistake is sewing the new seam without pinning first—you can end up with uneven seams or a dress that does not hang straight.
Do not cut away the old seam until you are absolutely certain the fit is permanent. Many people cut too soon and then regret it when they realize the dress needs to go out slightly, or when they gain or lose a small amount of weight. Leaving the old seam in place gives you options. Finally, do not forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam, or your stitches will come undone the first time you wear the dress.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I take in a dress if it is too big in the chest?
Yes. Take in the side seams evenly on both sides—remove the same amount from the front and back on each side so the dress stays balanced. If only the chest is loose and the waist fits, you can also take in just the front side seams and leave the back alone.
How much smaller can I make a dress?
You can usually take in one-half to one inch per side seam without changing how the dress looks or fits. That is one to two inches total around the dress. If you need to make it much smaller than that, a tailor may need to adjust the shoulders or sleeves too, which is more complex.
What if I sew the new seam in the wrong place?
Unpick the stitches with a seam ripper or small scissors, remove the thread, and sew again. As long as you have not cut away the old seam, you can sew as many times as you need. The old seam line is still there to guide you if you need to go back to the original size.
Do I need a sewing machine to take in a dress?
No. You can sew by hand using a backstitch, which is strong enough for a seam. Machine sewing is faster and the stitches are more even, but hand sewing works fine if you take your time and keep your stitches small and tight.
Should I wash the dress before or after taking it in?
Wash it before if the fabric is new or if you are not sure whether it will shrink. Once you have taken it in and trimmed the seams, you can wash it normally. If you have not trimmed the old seam yet, washing will not hurt—just be gentle and use cold water so the fabric does not shrink more.