The Basic Hand-Sewing Stitch and When to Use It

The running stitch is the foundation of hand sewing and the one you'll use most often. Thread a needle, tie a knot at the end, and push the needle through both layers of fabric from underneath. Pull the thread taut but not so tight that it puckers the cloth. Then push the needle back through from the top, about one-eighth inch away from where you came out. Repeat this forward-and-back motion in a straight line. The stitches should be small and even—aim for about eight to ten stitches per inch.

The running stitch works well for seams that won't bear much stress, repairs to lightweight fabrics, and hand-finishing edges. It's also the fastest hand stitch to learn. For seams that need to hold under tension—like the sides of a bag or the crotch of pants—you'll want the backstitch instead, which is stronger but slower. With a backstitch, you push the needle forward through both layers, then bring it back to the end of the previous stitch and push it forward again, overlapping each stitch slightly.

Key Takeaways

  • The running stitch is the basic hand stitch for most sewing tasks; push the needle through both layers in a straight line with stitches about one-eighth inch apart.
  • Use a backstitch for seams under stress because it overlaps each stitch and holds much stronger than a running stitch.
  • Machine sewing is faster and more consistent than hand sewing, and a straight stitch on a basic machine handles most everyday fabric work.
  • Needle size, thread weight, and fabric type must match—heavy fabric needs a larger needle and thicker thread than lightweight cotton.
  • Pressing seams flat with an iron after sewing makes the finished piece look professional and helps the fabric hold its shape.

Threading a Needle and Choosing the Right Size

Cut a length of thread about 18 to 24 inches long—longer than that and it tangles as you work. Wet the end slightly between your lips to make it stiffer, then push it through the eye of the needle. If the thread frays and won't go through, trim the end with scissors and try again. Tie a knot at the other end by wrapping the thread around your index finger once, rolling it off with your thumb, and pulling tight.

Needle size matters. A size 7 or 8 needle works for most lightweight to medium-weight fabrics like cotton and linen. Use a size 5 or 6 for heavier fabrics like denim or canvas. For very fine fabrics like silk or thin cotton, go smaller—size 9 or 10. The needle should slide through the fabric without resistance but shouldn't be so small that the thread frays in the eye. If you're sewing with thick thread or embroidery floss, use a needle with a larger eye, sometimes labeled as a crewel needle.

Setting Up a Sewing Machine and Threading It Correctly

Most household sewing machines use a bobbin—a small spool that holds thread underneath the fabric. Before you thread the machine, wind the bobbin. Place an empty bobbin on the bobbin winder (a small spindle on the side or top of the machine), thread the machine as if you're about to sew, and hold the thread while you press the foot pedal. The machine will wind thread onto the bobbin automatically. Stop when the bobbin is full.

Now thread the machine itself. Raise the presser foot—the metal piece that holds fabric down—because this opens the tension discs that grip the thread. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin at the top of the machine. Guide the thread through the guides and tension discs (follow the diagram on your machine or in the manual), then through the needle from front to back. Insert the bobbin into its case, thread the bobbin thread through the tension spring, and you're ready to sew.

If your stitches look loopy or uneven, the machine is probably not threaded correctly. Rethread it completely, making sure the presser foot is up. If that doesn't fix it, check that the needle is inserted correctly—most machines require the flat side of the needle to face a particular direction—and that the needle isn't bent or dull.

Sewing a Straight Seam on a Machine

Place two pieces of fabric right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Align the edges and slide them under the presser foot so the edge of the fabric lines up with the quarter-inch mark on the throat plate—the metal guide in front of the needle. Lower the presser foot to hold the fabric in place. This quarter-inch distance is the standard seam allowance.

Hold the fabric gently with both hands and press the foot pedal slowly. The needle will move up and down and pull the fabric forward automatically. Keep the edge of the fabric aligned with the quarter-inch mark as you sew. When you reach the end, stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, and pull the fabric toward you to cut the thread. Most machines cut the thread automatically when you do this, or you can use scissors.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of a seam to lock the thread so it doesn't unravel. To backstitch, sew forward a few stitches, then press the reverse button (or lever) and sew backward over those same stitches, then forward again to the end. This takes only a few seconds and makes a huge difference in durability.

Pressing Seams and Finishing Edges

After you sew a seam, press it flat with an iron before you sew the next one. This sets the stitches and makes the fabric lie smoothly. Place the fabric on an ironing board with the seam running lengthwise, and run the iron over it on medium heat. For most cotton and linen, medium heat is safe; check the care label on your fabric if you're unsure. Pressing takes 30 seconds and makes your finished piece look professional.

Raw fabric edges fray over time, especially after washing. To finish an edge, you can fold it under a quarter inch and sew it down with a running stitch (called a hem), or you can use a machine stitch designed for edges, like a zigzag stitch. A zigzag stitch moves the needle side to side as it goes forward, which catches the fraying threads and prevents them from coming loose. Check your machine's manual for how to select this stitch.

Matching Needle and Thread to Your Fabric

Thread weight and needle size must match your fabric weight. For lightweight cotton or linen, use a size 70 or 80 thread (the higher the number, the finer the thread) and a size 60/8 or 70/10 needle. For medium-weight fabric like regular quilting cotton or canvas, use size 50 thread and a size 80/12 needle. For heavy fabric like denim or upholstery cloth, use size 30 or 40 thread and a size 90/14 or 100/16 needle.

If your thread is too thick for your needle, it will shred and break. If your needle is too small for your fabric, it will bend or break as you sew. Most fabric stores sell thread and needles labeled by weight, so you can match them easily. Keep a few needle sizes on hand—a pack of assorted needles costs a few dollars and lasts a long time.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Puckered seams usually mean the thread tension is too tight. On a machine, this is controlled by a dial or lever marked with numbers. Try turning it down one or two numbers and sewing a test seam on scrap fabric. If the stitches still look puckered, loosen it more. If the bobbin thread shows on top, the top tension is too loose; tighten it instead.

Skipped stitches—places where the needle didn't catch the thread—often mean the needle is bent, dull, or inserted incorrectly. Replace the needle and rethread the machine. If you're hand sewing and your stitches are uneven, slow down and focus on making each stitch the same size. Uneven stitches don't affect durability, but they look less polished.

Thread that breaks repeatedly usually means the needle is too small, the thread is old or poor quality, or the tension is too tight. Try a larger needle first, then check the tension. If you're hand sewing, make sure you're not pulling the thread so tight that it snaps.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between hand sewing and machine sewing?

Hand sewing is slower but gives you precise control and works on any fabric. Machine sewing is much faster and creates more consistent stitches, but requires a machine and works best on fabric that feeds smoothly. For repairs and small projects, hand sewing is fine. For larger projects or seams under stress, a machine is worth the time saved.

Can I sew stretchy fabric like knit or jersey on a regular sewing machine?

Regular machines can sew knit fabric, but the stitches may break when the fabric stretches because the thread doesn't stretch with it. A ballpoint needle (designed for knits) helps, and a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag stitch is better than a straight stitch. For frequent knit sewing, a serger machine is ideal, but it's not necessary for occasional projects.

How do I know if my needle is dull?

A dull needle skips stitches, breaks thread, or leaves holes in delicate fabric. If you've been sewing for several hours or if you've sewn through heavy fabric, replace the needle. A fresh needle costs pennies and solves most stitch problems. If you're hand sewing, a dull needle is harder to push through fabric and leaves larger holes.

Do I need to wash fabric before I sew it?

Most cotton and linen shrink slightly when washed, so washing before sewing prevents your finished piece from shrinking unevenly. Synthetic fabrics like polyester don't shrink much. If you're making something that won't be washed often, pre-washing isn't critical. If you're making clothing or anything that will be laundered, wash and dry the fabric first.

What's the best way to remove a seam if I made a mistake?

Use a seam ripper—a small tool with a curved blade that costs a dollar or two. Slide the blade under a stitch, lift it, and cut. Do this every few stitches along the seam, then pull the thread out. For hand-sewn seams, you can also carefully cut the thread with small scissors and pull it out. Be gentle so you don't cut the fabric itself.