The two main ways to attach lace to fabric
You can sew lace to fabric by hand using a needle and thread, or by machine using a sewing machine. Hand sewing gives you more control and is gentler on delicate lace—it's the method to use when your lace is fragile or when you need invisible stitches. Machine sewing is faster and creates a stronger seam, which works well for lace that will get regular wear or washing.
The choice depends on the weight of your lace, how visible you want the stitches to be, and how much time you have. Both methods use the same basic principle: you're anchoring the lace edge to the fabric with thread that runs through both layers.
Key Takeaways
- Hand sewing lace uses a slip stitch or backstitch and works best for delicate lace or when you want stitches to be invisible.
- Machine sewing lace requires a narrow zigzag stitch or a specialty lace foot, and creates a durable seam suitable for garments that will be washed.
- Pinning or basting lace in place before sewing prevents it from shifting and keeps edges aligned.
- Trim excess fabric from behind the lace after sewing to reduce bulk and prevent fraying.
- Test your stitch on scrap fabric first, especially if your lace is delicate or your machine is new to you.
Hand sewing lace with a slip stitch
A slip stitch is the invisible hand-sewing method. Thread a needle with thread that matches your lace or fabric, and knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of the fabric edge so the knot sits inside the fold and doesn't show on the surface.
Position the lace on top of the fabric with the edge you want to attach facing down. Insert the needle into the lace edge, then slide it forward inside the lace for about one-eighth inch. Bring the needle back out and insert it into the fabric directly across from where the needle exited the lace. Slide the needle forward inside the fabric fold for one-eighth inch, then bring it back out. Repeat this pattern—lace, fabric, lace, fabric—all the way along the edge. The thread stays hidden inside the folds, so the stitches are nearly invisible from the outside.
This method works best when you're attaching lace to a finished edge that has been folded under, such as the hem of a garment or the edge of a pillowcase. It's slower than machine sewing but produces a professional look on delicate projects.
Hand sewing lace with a backstitch
A backstitch is stronger than a slip stitch and visible on the surface, so use it when appearance matters less than durability. Thread your needle, knot the end, and bring it up through both the lace and fabric from underneath so the knot is hidden.
Push the needle down through both layers about one-eighth inch ahead of where it came up. Bring the needle back up one-eighth inch ahead of that point. Now push the needle back down into the hole where the previous stitch ended. This creates a solid line of overlapping stitches. Continue this pattern along the entire edge of the lace.
The backstitch is durable enough for lace that will see regular use, and it's faster than a slip stitch because you don't have to hide the thread inside folds. Use it on projects where the stitching line will be covered by another layer of fabric, or where a visible stitch is acceptable.
Machine sewing lace with a zigzag stitch
Set your machine to a narrow zigzag stitch—width around 2 to 3 millimeters and length around 2 millimeters. This stitch moves side to side as it moves forward, which prevents the lace from puckering and allows the fabric to stretch slightly if the lace does.
Pin or baste the lace to the fabric first so it doesn't shift while you sew. Position the lace where you want it and use straight pins every inch or so, or use a basting stitch (a long, loose straight stitch) to hold it temporarily. Place the fabric under the presser foot so the needle will catch both the lace and the fabric. Sew slowly and steadily, guiding the fabric with your hands but letting the machine do the work.
After sewing, trim the excess fabric from behind the lace using small scissors or a seam ripper. Leave about one-quarter inch of fabric behind the stitching line to prevent fraying. If the lace itself has a raw edge, you can seal it with a thin line of fray-check liquid, which dries clear and prevents unraveling.
Using a lace foot or specialty presser foot
Many sewing machines come with a lace foot or open-toe foot, which has a wider opening than a standard foot. This lets you see exactly where your stitches are going and prevents the foot from crushing delicate lace. If your machine has one, attach it before sewing lace.
An open-toe foot is especially useful when you're sewing close to the edge of the lace or when the lace pattern is intricate. Some machines also have a specialty foot designed specifically for attaching lace—check your machine's manual to see what's available. Even without a specialty foot, a standard presser foot works fine; the specialty feet just make the work easier and more visible.
Pinning and basting lace before sewing
Lace shifts easily, so find it before you sew. Use straight pins placed perpendicular to the edge of the lace, spacing them about one inch apart. Push the pin through the lace and into the fabric underneath, then back up through the fabric and lace. This anchors the lace without creating large holes.
For delicate lace or long seams, baste instead of pinning. Use a needle and thread with a long stitch length (about one-quarter inch) and sew the lace to the fabric in a straight line. This temporary stitch holds the lace in place while you do your final sewing. After you've sewn the final seam, you can pull out the basting thread by tugging on one end—it should come free in one piece.
Basting takes a few extra minutes but prevents the frustration of lace creeping out of position halfway through sewing, especially on curved edges or when working with very fine lace.
Finishing the seam and trimming excess fabric
After sewing, trim the excess fabric behind the lace to reduce bulk. Use small, sharp scissors and cut close to the stitching line, leaving about one-quarter inch of fabric. This prevents the seam from creating a thick ridge under the lace and makes the finished edge lie flat.
If the lace has a raw edge that will be visible, seal it with fray-check liquid applied with a small brush or applicator. Let it dry completely before handling. If the lace edge will be hidden under another layer of fabric, you don't need to seal it.
For machine-sewn seams, you can also finish the raw edge with a narrow zigzag stitch run along the edge of the trimmed fabric. This locks the fibers and prevents fraying without adding much bulk. Test this on scrap fabric first to make sure your machine doesn't create puckering.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew lace to stretchy fabric like knit or spandex?
Yes, but use a narrow zigzag stitch on your machine rather than a straight stitch, because the zigzag allows the seam to stretch with the fabric. Hand sewing with a backstitch also works, but the stitches must be close together—about one-sixteenth inch apart—to keep the seam from breaking when the fabric stretches.
What thread color should I use?
Use thread that matches the lace if the stitches will be visible, or thread that matches the fabric if the stitches will be hidden. If you can't find an exact match, choose the lighter of the two colors—it's less noticeable than a darker thread. Polyester or cotton thread both work; use what your machine prefers.
How do I sew lace to a curved edge?
Pin or baste more frequently on curves—every half inch instead of every inch—to prevent the lace from bunching. Sew slowly and let the machine do the work; don't pull the fabric. If you're hand sewing, use shorter stitches on curves to keep the lace from shifting.
What if my lace has a scalloped edge?
Sew along the straight edge of the lace, not along the scallops. The scallops should hang free below the stitching line. If you want to attach the scalloped edge itself, use a very narrow zigzag stitch and sew slowly, following the curve of each scallop.
Can I machine wash a garment with lace sewn on by hand?
Yes, if the hand stitches are tight and close together. A backstitch or slip stitch holds up well in the washing machine. Use a gentle cycle and cold water, and consider placing the garment in a mesh bag to reduce agitation. Machine-sewn lace is more durable in the wash than hand-sewn lace.