The Basic Method: Hand Sewing Lace With a Slip Stitch
The simplest way to attach lace to fabric is a slip stitch, which hides the thread inside the fold of the lace edge. This works best when the lace has a finished edge (like a scalloped or straight border) and you want an invisible seam. You will need a needle, thread that matches the lace or fabric, and pins.
Start by pinning the lace to the fabric with the right sides facing up—the decorative side of the lace should face outward. Use pins every 2 to 3 inches along the edge. Thread your needle and knot the end. Slide the needle into the fold of the lace edge, then bring it out about 1/8 inch along. Push the needle straight across into the fabric (not the lace), travel about 1/8 inch inside the fabric, and come back out. Return to the lace fold and repeat. The thread stays hidden because it runs inside the fold and just barely catches the fabric underneath. Stitch the entire length, then knot off on the underside.
Key Takeaways
- A slip stitch creates an invisible seam and works best on lace with a finished edge, taking about 15 to 30 minutes per yard depending on your speed.
- Machine sewing is faster for straight edges and uses a narrow zigzag stitch set to 1.5 to 2.0 width and 2.0 length to prevent puckering.
- Stabilizing the fabric underneath with tear-away stabilizer prevents stretching and bunching, especially on knits or delicate materials.
- Pressing the seam with a cool iron after sewing locks the stitches and keeps the lace lying flat against the fabric.
- Common mistakes include using thread that is too thick, pulling stitches too tight, and sewing through both layers of lace instead of just catching the edge.
Machine Sewing Lace With a Zigzag Stitch
A sewing machine is much faster than hand sewing and works well for lace with a straight edge or when you want a visible decorative seam. Pin the lace to the right side of the fabric, then place a piece of tear-away stabilizer underneath the fabric (not under the lace). The stabilizer prevents the fabric from puckering as the needle moves. Set your machine to a narrow zigzag stitch—width between 1.5 and 2.0, length between 2.0 and 2.5. Test on scrap fabric first.
Position the needle so it catches just the edge of the lace on the left swing and lands in the fabric on the right swing. Sew slowly and steadily, guiding with your hands but not pulling. When you reach the end, backstitch to lock the thread. Tear away the stabilizer by pulling it gently at an angle—it should come away cleanly. If any stabilizer remains, use a damp cloth to dissolve the bits.
If your lace has a scalloped edge, you can also use a blanket stitch on your machine (if available) for a more decorative look. The blanket stitch sits right at the edge and prevents fraying while adding texture. Use the same stabilizer and test the stitch width first—usually 2.0 to 3.0 works well for lace.
Preparing the Lace and Fabric Before Sewing
Lace and delicate fabrics need a moment of prep to prevent stretching and bunching. Lay the lace flat on a clean surface and check for any loose threads or snags—trim these with small scissors. If the lace is rolled or creased from the package, press it gently with a cool iron (around 250°F) on the wrong side. Do not use steam, which can distort the pattern.
For the fabric, press it smooth as well. If you are attaching lace to a stretchy fabric like jersey or knit, cut a piece of tear-away stabilizer slightly larger than the lace area and pin it to the wrong side of the fabric before you pin the lace on top. This keeps the fabric from stretching as you sew. For woven fabrics, stabilizer is optional but still helpful if the fabric is thin or loosely woven.
Sewing Lace to Curved Edges and Corners
Curves and corners require a slightly different approach because the lace needs to bend without bunching. For a gentle curve, pin the lace every 1 inch instead of every 2 to 3 inches, and ease it gently as you sew. If you are using a machine, reduce your speed and let the needle do the work—do not pull the fabric.
At a corner, stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. For hand sewing, take smaller stitches (about 1/16 inch) around the corner to keep the lace from puckering. If the lace still bunches, you may need to trim a tiny bit of excess lace at the corner—cut into the seam allowance at a 45-degree angle, being careful not to cut the stitches.
Finishing the Seam and Pressing
After sewing, the seam needs to be finished so it does not fray and so the lace lies flat. If you used a slip stitch by hand, the seam is already finished because the thread is hidden. If you used a machine, trim the thread tails close to the knots, then press the seam with a cool iron (around 250°F) on the wrong side of the fabric. Press from the fabric side, not the lace side, to avoid flattening the lace pattern.
If the raw edge of the fabric shows underneath the lace, you can finish it with a narrow zigzag stitch or a serger if you have one. Alternatively, trim the fabric close to the seam and explore a thin line of fray check (a liquid that seals fabric edges) along the cut edge. Let it dry completely before wearing or washing.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most frequent error is using thread that is too thick or too dark, which shows through the lace and looks clumsy. Always use thread that matches the lace color, and use the thinnest thread your needle will accept—usually 50-weight or 60-weight for lace work. Test on a scrap first.
Pulling stitches too tight is another common problem, especially with hand sewing. Tight stitches pucker the lace and fabric and can even tear delicate lace. Keep your tension loose and even—the stitch should hold without strain. If you see puckering as you sew, you are pulling too hard.
Sewing through both layers of lace instead of just catching the edge will create a stiff, visible seam. For a slip stitch, keep your needle in the fold of the lace edge and only catch a thread or two of the fabric below. For a machine stitch, position the needle so it just barely clips the lace edge on one swing.
Choosing Between Hand and Machine Sewing
Hand sewing takes longer—roughly 15 to 30 minutes per yard—but gives you complete control and creates an invisible seam. It is the best choice for heirloom pieces, delicate laces, or when you want the seam to be completely hidden. Hand sewing also works on any shape, including tight curves and corners, without risk of puckering.
Machine sewing is three to five times faster and creates a strong, durable seam. It works best on straight edges and gentle curves. A machine stitch is visible, so it works well when you want the seam to be part of the design—for example, on a garment edge or a decorative trim. Machine sewing is also better for projects that will be washed frequently because the stitch is stronger than hand stitching.
For a project that combines both, you can machine-sew the main seam and hand-finish the corners or curved areas where the machine tends to pucker. This gives you speed where it matters and control where you need it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thread color should I use when sewing lace?
Match the thread to the lace color, not the fabric color. If the lace is white and the fabric is navy, use white thread. The lace is what shows, so the thread should disappear into it. If you cannot find an exact match, choose a shade slightly lighter than the lace rather than darker.
Can I sew lace onto stretchy fabric like spandex or jersey?
Yes, but you must use tear-away stabilizer underneath the fabric to prevent stretching. Pin the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric first, then pin the lace on top. Sew through all three layers. After sewing, tear away the stabilizer. Without it, the fabric will stretch as the needle moves and the lace will pucker.
What if the lace edge is not finished and looks raw?
You can fold the raw edge under slightly before sewing, or you can explore fray check to seal it before you attach the lace. Alternatively, sew the lace on with a zigzag stitch that covers the raw edge, then trim the excess lace close to the stitching. The zigzag stitch will seal the edge as you sew.
How do I fix puckering after I have already sewn the lace on?
If the puckering is minor, press the seam gently with a cool iron and a damp cloth. If it is severe, you may need to remove the stitches with a seam ripper, re-pin the lace with more pins (every 1 inch instead of every 2 to 3), and sew again more slowly. Puckering usually means the fabric was pulled too tight as you sewed.
Can I use a serger to attach lace?
Yes, a serger creates a fast, finished edge in one pass. Use a 3-thread or 4-thread serger stitch with the lace on top and stabilizer underneath. The serger will trim the excess fabric and seal the edge at the same time. Test the stitch on scrap fabric first to make sure the blade does not cut into the lace itself.