What Cording Does and Why It Matters
Cording — also called piping or trim — is a rope-like edging sewn between the front and back fabric panels of a pillow. It gives the seam a finished, professional look and adds structure so the pillow edge holds its shape instead of rolling or collapsing. The cord sits inside a fabric tube (called the casing), and that tube gets sandwiched into the seam where front and back meet.
Cording is optional but worth learning because it transforms a basic pillow into something that looks intentional. It also protects the seam from wear — the cord takes stress that would otherwise pull on the thread alone. You can buy pre-made cording at fabric stores, or make your own by wrapping bias tape around cotton rope.
Key Takeaways
- Pre-made cording comes in cotton, polyester, and specialty fabrics; measure your pillow perimeter and add 2 inches before you buy.
- Pin cording to the right side of the front panel first, matching raw edges, then sew it down with a zipper foot before attaching the back.
- The back panel goes on top of the cording, right sides together, and you sew through all three layers — front, cording, and back.
- Leave a 4- to 6-inch opening on one side for turning and stuffing; sew the opening closed by hand after the pillow is filled.
Choosing and Preparing Your Cording
Cording comes pre-made at most fabric stores in widths from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. The 3/8-inch width is the most common and works for pillows of any size. Check the fiber content — cotton cording is easier to sew and presses flat, while polyester holds its shape better but can be slippery. Specialty cords with decorative beads, fringe, or metallic thread cost more but create a statement look.
Measure the perimeter of your pillow (all four sides added together) and add 2 inches for overlap at the corners. If your pillow is 16 by 16 inches, that is 64 inches around, so buy 66 inches of cording. Pre-made cording usually comes in 2- or 5-yard packages, which is enough for multiple pillows.
Before you start sewing, lay the cording flat on your work surface and let it relax for a few hours. This prevents it from twisting or puckering as you sew. If the cording is tightly wound, gently unroll it and weight it down with books or pins.
Attaching Cording to the Front Panel
Cut your front and back fabric panels to the same size — for a 16-inch finished pillow, cut both pieces 17 by 17 inches to account for the 1/2-inch seam allowance. Lay the front panel right side up on your work surface. The right side is the side you want to see on the finished pillow.
Starting at the midpoint of one side, pin the cording along the raw edge of the front panel. The raw edge of the cording (the part without the fabric tube) should align exactly with the raw edge of your fabric. Pin every 2 to 3 inches, keeping the cording taut but not stretched. At each corner, fold the cording at a 45-degree angle so it turns the corner smoothly without bunching.
When you reach the starting point, overlap the cording ends by 1 inch. Trim the rope inside the casing so the two rope ends butt together without overlapping, then fold the fabric casing of one end over the other and pin it down. This overlap will be hidden in the seam.
Attach a zipper foot to your machine — this narrow presser foot lets you sew close to the cord without hitting it. Set your stitch length to 2.0 mm (medium length) and sew along the pinned line, keeping the cord just to the left of the needle. Sew slowly around corners and backstitch at the start and end. Remove the pins as you go.
Sewing the Back Panel and Leaving an Opening
Place the back panel on top of the front panel, right sides together. The cording now sits between the two layers. Pin around all four sides, placing pins perpendicular to the edge so they do not interfere with sewing. Make sure the back panel is aligned with the front — the edges should match exactly.
Using the zipper foot again, sew around all four sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Start at one corner and sew to within 6 inches of where you started, then stop and backstitch. This 4- to 6-inch opening is where you will turn the pillow right side out and stuff it. The opening should be on a side, not at a corner, so it is easier to close later.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch all the way around, cutting close to the stitching line but not into it. At each corner, cut diagonally across the corner point to reduce bulk — this helps the corner turn out crisp and square. Clip into the seam allowance along curved edges if your pillow has them, spacing clips about 1/2 inch apart.
Turning, Stuffing, and Closing the Pillow
Reach through the opening and grab the front panel, then pull the entire pillow through the opening to turn it right side out. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push out the corners from the inside, working gently so you do not poke through the seam. The cording should now frame the edge of the pillow on the outside.
Press the pillow flat with an iron on medium heat, paying special attention to the seams and corners. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by 1/2 inch and press them as well. This creates a clean edge for hand-sewing.
Stuff the pillow through the opening with polyester fiberfill or your chosen filling. Add stuffing gradually, working it into the corners first, then filling the center. Stuff firmly so the pillow holds its shape, but not so tightly that the seams strain. A 16-inch pillow typically needs 1 to 1.5 pounds of filling.
Close the opening with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch). Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric, knot the end, and bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening. Slide the needle through the fold for about 1/4 inch, then cross to the opposite side and slide through that fold for 1/4 inch. Repeat this zigzag pattern along the entire opening. Every few stitches, pull the thread gently to draw the opening closed. When you reach the end, knot the thread inside the fold and trim it.
Fixing Common Mistakes
If the cording twists or puckers as you sew, you are likely pulling it too tight or sewing too fast. Slow down and let the presser foot feed the cording at its own pace. If the cording bunches at corners, you did not fold it sharply enough — unpick that section, refold the corner at a tighter angle, and resew.
If the seam allowance is uneven and the cording sits off-center, the zipper foot was not positioned correctly. The cord should sit just to the left of the needle so the needle catches the fabric casing, not the cord itself. Practice on scrap fabric first if this is your first time using a zipper foot.
If the pillow looks lumpy after stuffing, the filling is not distributed evenly. Reach in through the opening and massage the filling, moving it from thick spots to thin ones. Add or remove filling until the pillow feels balanced.
Cording Styles and When to Use Them
Plain cotton cording in white, cream, or black works with any fabric and is the least expensive option. Colored cording that matches or contrasts with your fabric adds visual interest — a navy pillow with white cording, for example, creates a nautical look. Specialty cords with ball fringe, tassel trim, or metallic thread cost two to three times more but make a pillow look custom-made.
For a beginner, start with plain 3/8-inch cotton cording in a neutral color. Once you are comfortable with the technique, experiment with wider cords, contrasting colors, or decorative trims. The sewing method stays the same regardless of the cording style.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make my own cording instead of buying it?
Yes. Wrap bias tape around cotton rope or cord, then sew the bias tape closed with a zipper foot. This is cheaper if you are making many pillows, but it takes time. Pre-made cording is faster and more consistent, especially for a first project.
What if I do not have a zipper foot?
A zipper foot is not strictly required, but it makes sewing cording much easier because it lets you sew close to the cord without the presser foot hitting it. If you do not have one, use a regular presser foot and sew as close to the cord as you can, but expect the seam to be slightly less neat. A zipper foot costs 10 to 15 dollars and works on most machines.
How do I sew cording on a curved or round pillow?
The method is the same, but you need to clip the seam allowance of the cording more frequently — every 1/4 inch instead of every 1/2 inch — so it curves smoothly without bunching. Sew slowly around curves and adjust the cording as you go to keep it lying flat.
Can I add cording to a pillow that is already sewn?
Not easily. Cording must be sewn into the seam before the front and back are joined. If you want to add trim to a finished pillow, sew it on top of the seam by hand or machine, but it will not have the same finished look as cording sewn into the seam.
How do I wash a pillow with cording?
Check the fiber content of both the fabric and the cording. Most cotton cording can be machine washed on gentle cycle in cool water, but specialty cords with beads or metallic thread should be hand washed or dry cleaned. Test a small area first to make sure the cording does not bleed color onto the fabric.