The Basic Method: Two Rectangles and Four Seams
A pillowcase is two pieces of fabric sewn together on three sides, turned right-side out, and closed with a fourth seam. You need fabric, thread, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, and pins. The whole project takes 30 minutes to an hour by hand, 15 minutes by machine. No pattern is required — you cut two rectangles to the size you want, sew them together, and you are done.
The standard pillowcase fits a 20-by-26-inch pillow insert. If you are making one, cut two rectangles 21 by 27 inches. The extra half-inch on each side becomes your seam allowance — the fabric that gets sewn together and holds the two pieces as one. Without it, your pillowcase would be too small.
If you are using a different pillow size, add one inch to both the length and width of your pillow insert. A 16-by-16-inch insert becomes two 17-by-17-inch rectangles. A 12-by-20-inch insert becomes two 13-by-21-inch rectangles.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two rectangles of fabric, each one inch larger than your pillow insert in both length and width, to account for seam allowance.
- Pin the two rectangles together with the pretty sides facing each other, then sew three sides with a half-inch seam allowance.
- Turn the pillowcase right-side out through the opening, push the corners out flat, and press with an iron if you have one.
- Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch, pin them closed, and sew the final seam by hand or machine.
- A standard 20-by-26-inch pillow needs two 21-by-27-inch fabric rectangles; adjust the measurements for smaller or larger pillows.
Cutting and Pinning Your Fabric
Lay your fabric flat on a clean, hard surface. Use a ruler or measuring tape to mark the dimensions of your first rectangle in pencil or tailor's chalk directly on the fabric. Cut along the marked lines with sharp fabric scissors — dull scissors will fray the edge and make sewing harder. Cut your second rectangle to the same size.
Place the two rectangles on top of each other with the pretty sides facing inward — the sides you want to show on the finished pillowcase should be touching each other. This is called "right sides together." Pin along all four edges, spacing pins about two inches apart. The pins hold the fabric in place while you sew and keep the layers from shifting.
Sewing Three Sides
You will sew three complete sides and leave one side partially open. The opening is where you turn the pillowcase right-side out and insert the pillow. A half-inch seam allowance is standard — that means your stitches run half an inch from the edge of the fabric.
If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch at medium speed. Align the edge of the fabric with the half-inch mark on the presser foot, or use the edge of the presser foot itself as a guide if it is half an inch wide. Sew along one short side, remove the pins as you reach them, and backstitch at the end by pressing the reverse button for three or four stitches. This locks the thread and prevents unraveling.
Sew the next long side, then the opposite short side. On the final long side, sew only the first six inches, backstitch, and stop. Leave the middle eight to ten inches unsewn — this is your turning opening. Sew the last six inches of that side, backstitch, and cut the thread.
If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch or backstitch. A backstitch is stronger: push the needle through both layers from front to back, bring it back up half an inch ahead, then push it back down through the hole you just came out of. This creates a solid line of overlapping stitches. Work slowly and keep your stitches even, about one-eighth inch apart.
Turning and Pressing
Reach through the opening you left unsewn and grab the fabric from the inside. Pull gently and steadily until the entire pillowcase turns inside out. The pretty sides of the fabric are now on the outside, where they belong. Push your fingers into each corner from the inside and work the fabric outward until the corners are sharp and flat, not rounded.
If you have an iron, lay the pillowcase flat and press all four seams. This flattens the fabric and makes the final seam easier to sew. Press the two edges of the opening flat as well, folding them inward by half an inch as if you were about to sew them closed. This fold line makes the final seam straighter and neater.
Closing the Opening
Fold both raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and pin them together. The fold should line up with the seams you already sewed on either side of the opening. Pin along the entire opening, spacing pins about an inch apart.
Sew the opening closed with the same seam allowance you used for the other three sides. If you are using a machine, sew slowly and keep the fold straight. If you are sewing by hand, use a ladder stitch for an invisible seam: bring the needle up through the fold on one side, push it straight across into the fold on the other side, slide it along inside the fold for half an inch, and come back out. Then go back to the first side and repeat. This stitch hides inside the fold and is nearly invisible when you are done.
Backstitch at both ends to lock the thread. Cut the thread and remove any pins. Your pillowcase is now complete and ready for a pillow insert.
Machine Sewing Versus Hand Sewing
A sewing machine is faster and produces more consistent stitches, but a hand-sewn pillowcase is just as strong if you use a backstitch and keep your stitches close together. Machine sewing takes 15 to 20 minutes for the whole project. Hand sewing takes 45 minutes to an hour, depending on your speed and experience.
Machine stitches are smaller and tighter, which means less chance of the seam coming apart. Hand stitches can be larger and still hold, but they are more visible on the finished pillowcase. If appearance matters more than speed, hand sewing with small, even stitches produces a neater result. If you are making multiple pillowcases, a machine saves time and effort.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is forgetting to add seam allowance when you cut the fabric. If you cut your rectangles to exactly 20 by 26 inches, your finished pillowcase will be 19 by 25 inches — too small for a standard pillow. Always add one inch to both dimensions before cutting.
The second mistake is sewing with the pretty sides of the fabric facing outward instead of inward. This leaves your seams visible on the outside of the finished pillowcase. Check before you start sewing: the sides you want to see should be touching each other, hidden inside.
The third mistake is making your turning opening too small. If the opening is only two or three inches long, you will struggle to turn the pillowcase right-side out without tearing the fabric. An opening of eight to ten inches is much easier to work with. You can always sew it closed later.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of fabric should I use?
Cotton, cotton blends, linen, and flannel all work well for pillowcases. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or spandex unless you have a ballpoint needle for your machine. Lightweight fabrics are easier to sew by hand; heavier fabrics like denim or canvas are easier on a machine. Most fabric stores sell quilting cotton in hundreds of colors and patterns, and it is a good choice for beginners.
Do I need a pattern?
No. A pillowcase is straightforward two rectangles. Measure your pillow insert, add one inch to both dimensions, cut two rectangles, and sew them together. You do not need to buy or read a pattern.
Can I use a serger instead of a regular sewing machine?
Yes. A serger finishes the seams as it sews, which prevents fraying and looks more professional. Use the same seam allowance and follow the same steps. A serger is faster than a regular machine but not necessary — a regular machine works perfectly well.
What thread should I use?
All-purpose polyester thread works for most fabrics and is inexpensive. Match the thread color to your fabric or use a neutral color like white, black, or gray. Thicker thread shows more, so use standard weight unless you want the stitches to be decorative.
How do I make a pillowcase with a zipper or envelope closure?
A zipper closure requires inserting a zipper into one of the seams before you sew the pillowcase together. An envelope closure uses two overlapping rectangles instead of two straightforward ones, so one side folds over the other. Both methods are more complex than the basic method described here and require additional steps or materials.