The Basic Method: Two Squares Sewn Inside Out

A pillowcase is two pieces of fabric sewn together on three sides, then turned right-side out and stuffed. Start with two fabric squares or rectangles cut to the size you want your finished pillow to be, plus half an inch on all sides for the seam allowance. If you want a 16-inch pillow, cut two 17-inch squares. Place the two pieces with the pretty sides facing each other (wrong sides out), pin three edges, and sew along those three edges using a straight stitch at medium speed. Leave one edge completely unpinned—this is your opening. After sewing, trim the corners at a 45-degree angle to reduce bulk, then turn the whole thing right-side out through the opening. Push the corners out gently with a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil. Press the seams flat with an iron, fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch, and sew the opening closed by hand or machine.

The entire project takes 30 to 45 minutes once you have your fabric cut and your machine threaded. You will need a sewing machine, thread that matches or complements your fabric, scissors, pins, an iron, and a needle if you plan to hand-stitch the opening. Fiberfill stuffing or a pillow form goes inside after you turn the case right-side out.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric pieces to your desired pillow size plus half an inch on all sides for seam allowance.
  • Place the pieces with pretty sides facing inward, pin and sew three edges, then leave one edge open for turning and stuffing.
  • Trim the corners at 45 degrees before turning to prevent lumpy corners, then use a blunt tool to push corners out from the inside.
  • Fold the opening edges inward and sew them closed by hand or machine after stuffing the pillow.
  • Use a medium sewing speed and a straight stitch; backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread.

Cutting Your Fabric Squares to the Right Size

Measure your pillow form or decide how large you want the finished pillow to be. A standard bed pillow is 20 by 26 inches; a decorative throw pillow is often 16 by 16 inches or 18 by 18 inches. Add half an inch to each dimension for the seam allowance—this is the space between the edge of the fabric and the actual stitch line. If you want a 16-inch finished pillow, cut two squares that are 17 inches by 17 inches.

Use a ruler or measuring tape and mark your cutting lines lightly with a pencil or fabric pen. A rotary cutter and self-healing mat make straight cuts faster and more accurate than scissors, but sharp fabric scissors work fine if you cut slowly and keep the blade perpendicular to the table. Cut both pieces before you start sewing.

Pinning and Sewing Three Sides

Lay one fabric square on your work surface with the right side (the pretty side) facing up. Place the second square on top of it with the right side facing down, so the two pretty sides are pressed together. The wrong sides (the duller or less finished sides) now face outward. Pin along three of the four edges, placing pins about 2 inches apart and perpendicular to the edge. Leave the fourth edge completely unpinned—this is where you will turn the pillow right-side out and insert the stuffing.

Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric or complements it, and set the stitch length to medium (around 2.5 millimeters). Position the fabric under the presser foot so the needle will stitch half an inch from the edge. Backstitch at the start by pressing the reverse button for two or three stitches, then sew forward along the pinned edge. Remove pins as you approach them—do not sew over them, as this can break the needle. Backstitch again at the end of each seam. Sew all three pinned sides this way, stopping at the corners and lifting the presser foot to pivot the fabric 90 degrees.

Trimming Corners and Turning Right-Side Out

Before you turn the pillowcase inside out, trim the fabric at each of the four corners. Cut diagonally across the corner about a quarter inch away from the stitch line, being careful not to cut through the thread itself. This removes the bulk of the fabric at the corners so they will be sharp and flat instead of lumpy when you turn the pillow right-side out.

Reach into the opening you left unpinned and grab the fabric from the inside. Gently pull the entire pillowcase through the opening, turning it right-side out as you go. The pretty sides should now face outward. Use a blunt tool—a chopstick, a wooden spoon handle, or a point turner—to push the corners out from the inside. Work gently so you do not poke through the seams. Once the corners are sharp and the whole case is turned, press the seams flat with a hot iron. This makes the edges crisp and ready for the final step.

Stuffing and Closing the Opening

Fill the pillowcase with fiberfill stuffing or insert a pillow form through the opening. If you are using loose fiberfill, add it gradually and feel the pillow as you go—stop when it feels as full as you want it. A standard 16-inch pillow usually needs about 2 to 3 cups of fiberfill. If you are using a pillow form, straightforward slide it in and you are done with this step.

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch on both sides, and pin them closed. You can now sew this opening shut by machine using a straight stitch, or by hand using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which is nearly invisible. For a machine-sewn closing, sew about a quarter inch from the folded edge, backstitching at both ends. For a ladder stitch, thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric, knot the end, and bring the needle up through the fold on one side of the opening. Push the needle straight across into the fold on the opposite side, slide it along inside the fold for about half an inch, then bring it back out. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire opening, pulling the thread gently every few stitches so the opening closes. Knot the thread inside the fold when you reach the end.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most frequent error is cutting the seam allowance too small or forgetting it entirely. If your seam allowance is less than half an inch, the pillow will be noticeably smaller than you planned, and the seams may fray after washing. Always measure twice and add that half inch. Another common mistake is sewing all four sides closed by accident. Mark or remember which side you are leaving open before you start pinning, and double-check that one edge is completely unpinned before you sit down at the machine.

Lumpy corners happen when you do not trim the excess fabric at the corners before turning. Take the time to cut those diagonal lines—it makes a visible difference. If your corners still feel thick after turning, you can carefully trim a tiny bit more from the inside, but be cautious not to cut the seam itself. Finally, do not rush the final closing. A sloppy seam on the opening is visible every time you look at the pillow, so sew slowly and backstitch firmly at both ends.

Variations: Envelope Closures and Decorative Details

Once you master the basic method, you can try an envelope closure, which eliminates the need to hand-sew the opening. Cut one piece of fabric to your full size plus seam allowance, and cut two pieces for the back that are each half the width of the front piece plus an extra inch for overlap. Sew the two back pieces to the front piece on three sides, with the overlapping back pieces creating a flap that closes like an envelope. This method is faster and works well for pillows you plan to wash frequently.

You can also add decorative details like piping (a cord sewn into the seam), contrasting fabric panels, or embroidery before you sew the pieces together. Sew any decorative elements to the front piece while it is still flat and unpinned, then proceed with the basic method. Keep decorations away from the seam allowance so they do not get caught in the stitching.

Frequently Asked Questions

What thread should I use?

All-purpose polyester thread works for most fabrics and is inexpensive. Match the thread color to your fabric or use a neutral color like gray or tan. For delicate fabrics like silk or linen, use thread designed for those materials. Avoid using thread that is very old or has been stored in direct sunlight, as it becomes brittle and breaks easily.

Can I sew a pillowcase by hand without a machine?

Yes, but it takes longer—usually two to three hours. Use a running stitch or a backstitch, which is stronger. Make your stitches small and even, about a quarter inch long. A backstitch is slower but more durable for a pillow that will be used and washed regularly.

What fabric works best for pillowcases?

Cotton, linen, and cotton blends are durable and straightforward to sew. Fleece and minky are soft and forgiving for beginners. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like jersey knit unless you have a ballpoint needle, which prevents runs. Silk and satin are beautiful but slippery and require more experience.

Do I need to wash fabric before sewing?

It depends on the fabric and how you plan to use the pillow. Natural fabrics like cotton and linen shrink when washed, so pre-wash them if the finished pillow will be washed later. Synthetic fabrics and blends shrink less. If you are unsure, wash a small corner of your fabric in hot water and check if it shrinks before cutting your full pieces.

How do I fix a seam that came apart?

If a seam splits after you have finished, you can open that side again, re-sew the seam with a slightly larger seam allowance, and close it again. Alternatively, sew a new seam parallel to the broken one, about a quarter inch inward, which reinforces the weak spot without opening the pillow.