The basic method: cut, pin, sew three sides, turn, stuff, close
A pillow cover is two pieces of fabric sewn together on three sides, then turned inside-out so the seams are hidden, then stuffed, then the fourth side is sewn shut. The whole process takes about an hour once you have your fabric and materials ready. You do not need a sewing machine — hand sewing works, though a machine is faster.
The simplest version uses two rectangular pieces of fabric the same size. You pin them together with the pretty sides facing each other (so the seams end up on the inside), sew three edges, turn the whole thing right-side-out through the opening, push in your pillow form or stuffing, then sew the fourth edge closed by hand or machine.
This method works for any pillow size, from small decorative pillows to bed pillows. The only real variables are how much fabric you buy, what kind of closure you want (sewn shut, zipper, or envelope flap), and whether you want to add trim or details.
Key Takeaways
- You need two pieces of fabric cut to the same size, a needle or sewing machine, thread, pins, and a pillow form or fiberfill stuffing.
- The standard method is to pin the fabric pieces with pretty sides together, sew three sides, turn it inside-out, stuff it, then sew the fourth side closed.
- A sewing machine takes about 20 minutes; hand sewing takes 45 minutes to an hour, but requires no equipment beyond needle and thread.
- A zipper closure lets you remove and wash the cover later, while a sewn closure is simpler but means the cover is permanent.
- Seam allowance (the space between the edge of the fabric and your stitching line) should be about half an inch to keep the pillow from unraveling.
What you need before you start
Fabric: Two pieces cut to the same size. For a standard bed pillow, that is usually 20 by 26 inches. For a decorative pillow, 16 by 16 inches or 18 by 18 inches is common. You can measure an existing pillow form and add one inch to each dimension to account for seam allowance. Cotton, linen, and cotton blends are easiest to work with as a beginner.
Filling: Either a pillow form (a pre-made insert you can buy at a fabric store) or loose fiberfill stuffing. Pillow forms come in standard sizes and are faster — you just stuff the cover and close it. Fiberfill gives you more control over firmness but takes longer to distribute evenly.
Thread: Any all-purpose thread that matches or complements your fabric. Needle: A hand-sewing needle if you are sewing by hand, or thread for your machine if you are using one. Pins: To hold the fabric pieces together while you sew. Scissors: Sharp fabric scissors, not paper scissors — they dull quickly and make cutting harder. Measuring tape or ruler: To cut your fabric pieces straight and to the right size.
Optional but useful: a seam ripper (to undo stitches if you make a mistake), an iron (to press fabric flat before cutting), and chalk or a fabric pencil (to mark where you want to sew).
Cutting and pinning your fabric pieces
Lay out your first piece of fabric on a flat surface. Measure and mark the size you want — for example, 18 by 18 inches for a small decorative pillow. Use a ruler or measuring tape to make sure the corners are square. Cut along your marks with sharp scissors, moving slowly so the line stays straight.
Cut your second piece exactly the same size. The two pieces do not have to be perfectly identical, but they should be close enough that the edges line up when you pin them together. If one piece is noticeably larger, trim it to match.
Place the two pieces on top of each other with the pretty sides facing each other — this is important. The sides you want to see on the finished pillow should be touching, hidden inside. Pin around all four edges, spacing pins about 3 to 4 inches apart. The pins hold the fabric steady while you sew and prevent the layers from shifting.
Sewing three sides on a machine or by hand
If you are using a sewing machine: Set the machine to a straight stitch and thread tension appropriate for your fabric (check your machine manual if you are unsure). Start at one corner and sew along one edge, keeping the needle about half an inch from the edge of the fabric. This half-inch space is your seam allowance — it is what keeps the pillow from unraveling later. Sew all the way to the next corner, then pivot the fabric (lift the presser foot, turn the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot) and sew the next side. Repeat for three sides. Leave one full side unsewn — this is where you will stuff the pillow.
If you are sewing by hand: Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Starting at one corner, push the needle through both layers of fabric about half an inch from the edge. Make small, even stitches along the edge — about a quarter inch apart — pulling the thread snug after each stitch so the seam is tight. Work your way around three sides, leaving one side completely open. Tie off the thread at the end with a knot.
Either way, backstitch (sew backward over the last few stitches) at the beginning and end of each side to lock the thread in place so it does not unravel.
Turning, stuffing, and closing the pillow
Once three sides are sewn, you have a fabric pocket with one open side. Reach into that opening and grab the fabric from the inside. Pull the whole thing through the opening, turning it inside-out as you go. The seams are now hidden on the inside, and the pretty sides of the fabric are facing outward. Push the corners out gently with your fingers so they are square and sharp, not rounded.
Insert your pillow form or fiberfill through the opening. If you are using a form, it should slide in easily. If you are using loose fiberfill, pull off chunks and push them in, distributing them evenly so the pillow feels full and even. Do not overstuff — the pillow should be firm but not hard, and the fabric should not feel stretched or tight.
Once the pillow is stuffed, close the opening. You can do this by hand with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which hides the seam inside the fold of fabric, or you can machine-sew it shut like the other three sides. For a hand-sewn ladder stitch: fold the raw edges of the opening inward about half an inch and pin them closed. Thread your needle and bring it up through the fold on one side, then across through the fold on the other side, then back to the first side, working your way along the opening. Pull the thread snug every few stitches so the seam tightens and becomes invisible. Tie off when you reach the end.
Adding a zipper or envelope closure instead
If you want to remove and wash the cover later, a zipper is more practical than a sewn seam. To add a zipper: cut your fabric pieces as usual, but before pinning them together, pin the zipper to the top edge of one piece (the zipper teeth should face inward, toward the pretty side of the fabric). Sew the zipper in place along both long edges using a zipper foot on your machine. Then pin the two fabric pieces together as usual and sew three sides, but leave the side with the zipper unsewn. Stuff the pillow through the zipper opening and zip it closed. This way you can unzip, remove the form, and wash the cover.
An envelope closure is simpler and requires no zipper. Cut one piece of fabric to the full size you want (say, 18 by 18 inches) and cut the second piece into two rectangles that overlap when placed on top of the first piece — for example, two pieces that are each 18 by 12 inches. Pin the two rectangles on top of the full-size piece so they overlap in the middle by a few inches, with pretty sides together. Sew all the way around all four edges. Turn it right-side-out, and the overlapping flap creates a natural opening where you can slide the pillow form in and out. No sewing required to close it.
Fixing mistakes and finishing details
If you sew a line crooked or sew the wrong edge, a seam ripper makes it straightforward to undo. Slide the small fork end under a stitch, pull up to cut the thread, and pull the thread out. Work your way back to where you want to start over, then re-sew that section.
If your seams are uneven or wavy, it does not affect how the pillow works, only how it looks. As you gain experience, your lines will get straighter. For now, focus on making sure the seams are tight and the pillow is stuffed evenly.
Optional finishing touches: trim the seam allowance close to the stitching line (about a quarter inch away) before turning the pillow inside-out — this reduces bulk at the seams and makes corners sharper. You can also add trim, piping, or decorative stitching along the edges before you stuff the pillow, though this is not necessary for a functional cover.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a sewing machine, or can I do this entirely by hand?
You can sew a pillow cover entirely by hand. It takes longer — usually 45 minutes to an hour instead of 20 minutes with a machine — but the result is the same. Hand sewing is actually easier to control if you are a beginner, because you can see exactly where your needle is going and adjust as you work.
What happens if my two fabric pieces are slightly different sizes?
If one piece is a little larger, trim it to match the other before you pin them together. If you sew them as-is, the edges will not line up when you turn the pillow right-side-out, and the seams will look off-center. Spending two minutes to trim saves frustration later.
Can I use old fabric, like a worn-out sheet or pillowcase?
Yes. Old cotton sheets and pillowcases work well and are free. Wash and dry them first to shrink them, then cut and sew as usual. Avoid fabric that is thin or has holes, because it will not hold up to stuffing and use.
How tight should the seam be when I sew by hand?
Pull the thread snug after each stitch so the seam is firm and does not gap, but not so tight that you pucker or wrinkle the fabric. If you see waves or folds forming along your seam line, you are pulling too hard — ease up slightly.
What is the difference between a pillow form and fiberfill?
A pillow form is a pre-made insert (usually polyester) that you buy ready-to-use. Fiberfill is loose stuffing you buy in bags and pack into the cover yourself. Forms are faster and give you a uniform shape; fiberfill lets you control firmness and is cheaper, but takes more time to distribute evenly.