The basic method: measure, cut, sew three sides, insert the zipper, close the fourth

A zippered pillowcase starts with two rectangles of fabric cut to the same size, sewn together on three sides with a sewing machine, then a zipper inserted into the fourth side before you close it. The zipper goes between the two fabric layers, so it sits flush with the edge and opens and closes smoothly. You will need a sewing machine, thread, scissors, a measuring tape, pins, and a zipper the length of one side of your finished pillowcase.

The process takes two to three hours for a beginner, including measuring and cutting. Most people use a standard 20-inch zipper for a standard pillow, though you can use any length that matches your fabric width. Cotton fabric is easiest to work with and costs between $5 and $12 per yard; you need roughly one yard for a standard pillowcase.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric rectangles 21 inches by 21 inches (or your desired finished size plus half an inch on all sides for seam allowance).
  • Sew the two rectangles together on three sides using a half-inch seam allowance, leaving one side open for the zipper.
  • Pin the zipper face-down along the open edge, with the zipper teeth aligned to the raw fabric edge, then sew it in place with a zipper foot attachment.
  • Fold the fabric right-sides-together and sew the final side closed, which traps the zipper between the layers and completes the case.
  • Turn the pillowcase right-side-out through the zipper opening and press with an iron to flatten the seams.

Measure and cut your fabric pieces

Start by deciding your finished pillowcase size. A standard pillow is 20 inches by 20 inches, so cut two rectangles 21 inches by 21 inches to account for a half-inch seam allowance on all sides. If you are making a body pillow or a different size, add one inch total to both the length and width of your pillow measurement.

Lay your fabric on a flat surface and use a measuring tape and a ruler or straightedge to mark the corners with a pencil or fabric pen. Cut along the lines with sharp fabric scissors. Make sure both pieces are exactly the same size, or the finished case will be lopsided.

Sew two sides and one end with a half-inch seam

Place the two fabric rectangles with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Pin along three edges, leaving one 21-inch side unpinned — this is where the zipper will go. Thread your sewing machine and set it to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.

Sew along the three pinned sides, starting and stopping a quarter-inch from each corner to leave room for the zipper seam. Use a half-inch seam allowance, which means the needle should be half an inch from the raw edge of the fabric. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins as you go.

After sewing, trim the corners diagonally (called clipping the corners) to reduce bulk when you turn the case right-side-out. Cut about a quarter-inch from each corner, being careful not to cut through the stitching.

Prepare and pin the zipper to the open edge

Lay the partially sewn pillowcase flat with the open edge facing you. The right sides of the fabric are still facing each other. Open the zipper fully and lay it face-down along the open edge, with the zipper teeth aligned exactly to the raw edge of the fabric. The zipper should run the full 21 inches of the opening.

Pin the zipper in place along both long edges, pinning through the zipper tape (the fabric part of the zipper, not the teeth). Space pins every two inches. If your zipper is longer than 21 inches, you can trim the excess tape at the ends after sewing, but do not cut the teeth themselves.

Sew the zipper in place with a zipper foot

Attach a zipper foot to your sewing machine — this is a narrow presser foot that lets the needle run close to the zipper teeth without hitting them. Most machines come with one, and it slides onto the presser bar the same way a regular foot does. Consult your machine's manual if you are unsure how to attach it.

Sew along one long edge of the zipper tape, keeping the stitching line about a quarter-inch from the zipper teeth. Backstitch at the start and end. Then sew along the other long edge of the zipper tape the same way. Remove the pins as you go. The zipper is now permanently attached to the open edge of the pillowcase, sandwiched between the two fabric layers.

Close the final side and turn the case right-side-out

Open the zipper about halfway — this is important, because you need to be able to turn the pillowcase right-side-out through the opening. Fold the pillowcase so the right sides are facing each other again, and pin the final open edge closed. Sew this edge with a half-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end.

Reach through the zipper opening and grab the inside of the pillowcase, then pull it through the opening to turn it right-side-out. The zipper is now on the inside, running along one edge. Use a point turner or the handle of a wooden spoon to push the corners out fully so they are sharp and square.

Press the entire pillowcase with an iron on a medium setting to flatten the seams and remove wrinkles. Pay special attention to the edges. Insert your pillow through the zipper opening and close the zipper.

Choosing the right zipper length and type

A coil zipper (made of nylon coils) is the most common choice for pillowcases and costs $1 to $3. A metal zipper is more durable and looks more finished, but costs $3 to $6 and can snag fabric if not handled carefully. For a beginner, coil is easier to work with.

The zipper length should match the width of your finished pillowcase. For a 20-inch pillow, use a 20-inch or 22-inch zipper. A zipper that is slightly longer than your opening is fine — you trim the excess tape after sewing. A zipper that is too short will not reach both ends of the opening and will leave gaps.

Buy your zipper before you cut your fabric, so you can measure it and adjust your fabric size if needed. Zippers are sold in the notions section of fabric stores and online, usually in packs of one or individually.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

You can, but the regular foot will not fit as close to the zipper teeth, so your stitching line will be farther from the teeth and the zipper will be bulkier. A zipper foot costs $5 to $15 and takes 30 seconds to attach, so it is worth using if you have one. Many machines come with one in the accessory box.

What happens if I sew the zipper while it is closed?

The needle will hit the zipper slider and break, and you will have to remove the stitches and start over. Always open the zipper at least halfway before sewing it in place. If the slider is in the way, move it to the side with your hand as you sew.

Can I use a separating zipper instead of a regular one?

A separating zipper (one that comes completely apart at the bottom) is harder to work with for a pillowcase because the two sides separate, making it difficult to keep them aligned while sewing. A regular coil or metal zipper that stays connected at the bottom is the standard choice and much easier to manage.

How do I fix a zipper that is sewn in crooked?

You will need to remove the stitches with a seam ripper, reposition the zipper, and sew it again. If the stitches are very close to the zipper teeth, work slowly and carefully so you do not cut the zipper tape. This is why pinning carefully before sewing saves time in the long run.

Do I need to wash the pillowcase before using it?

It is a good idea to wash and dry new fabric before sewing to prevent shrinkage later. Wash in cool water and dry on low heat. If you skip this step, the pillowcase may shrink slightly the first time you wash it after sewing, which can stress the seams.