A zipper pillowcase is easier than it looks
A zippered pillowcase is made almost the same way as a regular pillowcase, except you insert a zipper into one seam instead of sewing it closed. The zipper goes on the side or bottom, hidden between the two fabric layers when the pillow is inserted. You sew three sides normally, attach the zipper to the opening, then fold the whole thing right-side-out. The process takes about an hour once you have your materials, and the hardest part is keeping the zipper foot steady as you stitch.
The main difference from a standard pillowcase is that you will work with the zipper before you close the final seam. You do not need special skills—a basic straight stitch and a zipper foot (a presser foot that lets you stitch close to the zipper teeth) are all you need. If your sewing machine did not come with a zipper foot, they cost $5 to $15 and fit most machines.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two fabric rectangles the size you want your finished pillowcase to be, plus half an inch on all sides for seam allowance.
- Sew three sides of the pillowcase closed with a half-inch seam, leaving one side open for the zipper.
- Pin the zipper to the open edges so the zipper pull faces inward, then stitch it down using a zipper foot.
- Fold the pillowcase right-side-out through the zipper opening, press it flat, and topstitch around the edges if you want a finished look.
- A 16-inch or 18-inch zipper works for most standard pillows; measure your opening before you buy.
What you need before you start
Gather your materials on a flat surface before you cut anything. You will need two pieces of fabric (cotton, linen, or any medium-weight material works), a zipper that is slightly shorter than the opening you will leave, thread that matches your fabric, and a zipper foot for your machine.
For a standard 20-by-20-inch pillow, cut two rectangles that are 20.5 by 20.5 inches. The extra half inch on each side is your seam allowance—the space between the edge of the fabric and the line where your needle goes. If you are making a different size, add one inch total to both the length and width of your finished pillow (half inch on each side). A 14-inch or 16-inch zipper works for most pillows; a 20-inch pillow needs an 18-inch zipper.
Sewing the three closed sides
Place your two fabric rectangles with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching, the wrong sides facing out). Pin three sides together, leaving one side completely unpinned—this is where the zipper will go. Use a ruler or measuring tape to mark a half-inch line from the edge on all three sides, or straightforward eyeball it if you are comfortable doing that.
Thread your machine and set it to a straight stitch with a medium length (around 2.5 on most machines). Sew along the three pinned sides, starting at one corner and stopping at the corner where the open side begins. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. When you reach a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue. This keeps your corner sharp.
Once the three sides are sewn, trim the corners diagonally about a quarter inch from the stitching line. This reduces bulk so the corners lie flat when you turn the pillowcase right-side-out. Do not cut into the stitches themselves.
Pinning and stitching the zipper
Open the zipper and lay it face-down on one of the open edges, with the zipper teeth pointing toward the fabric and the zipper pull facing inward (toward the inside of the pillowcase). The top of the zipper should line up with the top corner of the opening. Pin it in place along the entire length, pinning through the zipper tape (the flat woven part on either side of the teeth) and into the fabric seam allowance.
Attach the zipper foot to your machine—consult your machine's manual if you are unsure how. The zipper foot is narrower than a regular presser foot and sits to one side of the needle, so you can stitch right next to the zipper teeth without hitting them. Position the needle so it will stitch along the edge of the zipper tape, about a quarter inch from the teeth. Sew the entire length of the zipper, removing pins as you go. Backstitch at both ends.
Flip the pillowcase over so the other open edge is facing you. Open the zipper partially (about halfway) so you have room to work. Pin the other side of the zipper to this edge, again with the tape facing down and the teeth pointing inward. Stitch this side the same way, keeping your line parallel to the first side. The two stitching lines should be roughly the same distance from the zipper teeth.
Turning and finishing the pillowcase
Before you turn the pillowcase right-side-out, close the zipper most of the way, leaving about 4 inches open. This gives you a large enough opening to reach through and pull the fabric through. Reach into the opening and grab the fabric on the inside, then pull the entire pillowcase through the zipper opening. The right sides of the fabric will now be facing outward, and the seams will be hidden inside.
Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out from the inside so they are sharp and square. Press the pillowcase flat with an iron, paying special attention to the zipper edge. If you want a polished look, topstitch around all four edges about a quarter inch from the seam, using a regular presser foot. This stitching line will be visible on the outside and frames the pillowcase neatly.
Insert your pillow through the zipper opening and close the zipper all the way. The zipper will be hidden inside the seam and will not show from the outside.
Choosing the right zipper
Zippers come in different weights and materials. For a pillowcase, a standard coil zipper or metal zipper in size 14 to 20 inches works well. Coil zippers are lighter and quieter; metal zippers are more durable. Both are inexpensive and widely available at fabric stores and online.
Measure the open edge of your pillowcase (the distance between the two corners where the zipper will start and end) and buy a zipper about a half inch shorter than that measurement. A zipper that is too long will bunch at the corners; one that is too short will not reach. If you are unsure, buy a zipper that is slightly longer—you can trim the excess tape at the end if needed, though most people just fold it under.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is sewing the zipper with the wrong side facing out, so the zipper pull is visible on the outside of the finished pillowcase. Always double-check that the zipper teeth are pointing inward before you stitch. Another frequent problem is stitching too close to the teeth and hitting them with the needle, which can break the needle or damage the zipper. Stay a quarter inch away from the teeth and use the zipper foot to guide you.
Uneven stitching on either side of the zipper will make the opening crooked. Measure the distance from the teeth to your stitching line on the first side, then match that distance on the second side. If your stitches are wobbly, slow down and use your hands to guide the fabric gently—do not pull it, just steady it.
Forgetting to open the zipper before turning the pillowcase right-side-out is a frustrating mistake that leaves you unable to reach the opening. Always close the zipper most of the way before you turn, so you have a large gap to pull through.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an invisible zipper instead of a regular one?
Yes, but it requires a special invisible zipper foot and a slightly different technique. The zipper sits inside the seam so it is completely hidden, which looks very polished. Invisible zippers are more fiddly to install and cost a bit more, but they work the same way—you pin it to the open edges and stitch it down before turning the pillowcase right-side-out.
What if my zipper is longer than my opening?
Trim the excess zipper tape at the end with scissors or a seam ripper, but leave the teeth intact. Fold the trimmed tape under and pin it flat so it does not stick out. You can also buy a zipper that is the exact length you need to avoid trimming altogether.
Do I need a special foot to sew a zipper?
A zipper foot is not strictly required, but it makes the job much easier and safer. Without one, you risk hitting the zipper teeth with your needle and breaking it. A zipper foot costs very little and fits most machines, so it is worth having on hand if you plan to sew more than one zippered project.
Can I sew the zipper on the side instead of the bottom?
Yes, the zipper can go on any edge—side, bottom, or even top. The process is the same; only the placement changes. A side zipper is less noticeable when the pillow is sitting on a couch, while a bottom zipper is hidden when the pillow is in use.
What happens if I sew the zipper with the teeth facing outward?
The zipper will be visible and unusable on the outside of the finished pillowcase. You will need to carefully cut the stitches, remove the zipper, flip it around, and sew it again with the teeth facing inward. Always check the direction before you start stitching.