Sewing a pocket into a skirt takes about 30 to 45 minutes and requires only basic stitching skills

A pocket sewn into a skirt seam is stronger and neater than one applied to the outside. You sew the pocket pieces to the skirt panels before you join those panels together, so the pocket opening becomes part of the side seam. The pocket bag (the fabric pouch that holds things) stays hidden inside the skirt, and only the opening shows on the outside.

This method works best if you are making a skirt from a pattern that includes pocket pieces, or if you are adding pockets to an existing skirt pattern by modifying the side seam. If your skirt is already sewn, you can still add a patch pocket or a slit pocket, but an in-seam pocket is easiest to do during construction.

Key Takeaways

  • In-seam pockets are sewn to the skirt panels before the side seams are closed, so the pocket opening becomes part of the finished seam.
  • You need two pocket pieces per pocket (front and back), cut from your pattern or from scrap fabric, plus thread that matches your skirt.
  • Pin the pocket pieces to the skirt panels with right sides together, stitch them down, then fold and press before closing the side seam over them.
  • Common mistakes include stitching the pocket bag to the wrong side of the skirt panel, leaving gaps at the pocket opening, and not reinforcing the corners where the pocket meets the seam.

Gather your materials and cut the pocket pieces

You will need two pieces of fabric for each pocket. If your skirt pattern includes pocket pieces, use those. If not, cut two rectangles about 6 to 8 inches wide and 7 to 9 inches tall from lightweight cotton, linen, or a scrap that matches your skirt weight. Pocket fabric should be the same weight as your skirt or slightly lighter—heavy fabric will bulk up the seam.

You will also need thread that matches your skirt (or blends in), a needle or sewing machine, pins, scissors, an iron, and a seam ripper if you need to fix a mistake. If you are working by hand, use a backstitch for strength. A sewing machine is faster and produces a more durable pocket, but hand sewing works fine for a beginner.

Pin the pocket pieces to the skirt panels

Lay out your front skirt panel on a flat surface with the wrong side facing up (the side that will be inside the finished skirt). Take one pocket piece and lay it on top of the wrong side of the skirt panel, also with its wrong side facing up. The pocket piece should sit along the side seam line of the skirt, about 1 to 2 inches down from the waistband.

Align the top edge of the pocket piece with the seam line you will be sewing. Pin the pocket piece in place along the seam line, using 3 to 4 pins spaced evenly. Repeat this step on the back skirt panel with the second pocket piece, pinning it to the same seam line on the opposite side.

Stitch the pocket pieces to the skirt panels

Using a 5/8-inch seam allowance (the standard width), sew the pocket piece to the skirt panel along the seam line. Start at the top of the pocket and sew down to the bottom. Use a backstitch if hand sewing, or a straight stitch on the machine. Sew slowly and keep the line straight—this seam will show on the inside of the finished skirt, so neatness matters.

Stitch all four pocket pieces (two on the front panel, two on the back panel) before moving to the next step. Once you have sewn the pocket pieces to both panels, press the seam allowances open with an iron on a low to medium heat setting. This flattens the seam and makes the next step easier.

Fold and press the pocket bag

After pressing the seam open, fold the pocket piece away from the skirt panel so that the pocket bag now faces inward (toward the inside of the skirt). The seam you just stitched should sit along the edge where the pocket meets the skirt. Press this fold with an iron to crease it sharply.

Now fold the two pocket pieces together, right sides facing each other, so they form a pouch. The seam you stitched is now on the outside edge of this pouch. Pin the pocket pieces together along the bottom and side edges, leaving the top edge (where it attaches to the skirt seam) open. This pinning step keeps the pocket bag from shifting when you sew the side seam.

Close the side seam over the pocket

With the pocket pieces pinned together and folded inward, sew the side seam of the skirt as you normally would. Start at the waistband and sew down the entire side, catching the pocket pieces inside the seam. The pocket opening (the gap between the two pocket pieces at the top) should sit right on the seam line. Sew slowly through this area to avoid puckering.

When you reach the bottom of the pocket bag, continue sewing down the rest of the side seam. Once the side seam is complete, the pocket is now enclosed inside the skirt. The opening of the pocket will be a small slit along the side seam where you can slip your hand in to reach the pocket bag.

Reinforce the pocket corners and finish the edges

The corners where the pocket opening meets the side seam take stress every time you reach into the pocket. Reinforce these spots by stitching a small triangle or box around each corner. On the inside of the skirt, use a needle and thread or a sewing machine to stitch a small square (about 1/2 inch on each side) at the top corner of the pocket opening, then repeat at the bottom corner. This prevents the pocket from tearing open.

If your pocket bag edges are raw (not finished), trim them close to the seam and then finish them with a zigzag stitch on the machine, or use pinking shears to cut a zigzag edge by hand. This stops fraying inside the skirt. Press the entire side seam one more time with an iron to set all the stitches and give the skirt a polished look.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add a pocket to a skirt that is already finished?

Yes, but it is more work. You can sew a patch pocket (a small fabric rectangle) to the outside of the skirt using a topstitch, or you can cut a slit in the side seam and sew a pocket bag behind it. Both methods are visible and require more precision than an in-seam pocket. In-seam pockets are easiest to add during skirt construction.

What fabric should I use for the pocket bag?

Use cotton, linen, or a lightweight blend that matches your skirt weight or is slightly lighter. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, which will bulk up the seam. If your skirt is a delicate fabric like silk, use a thin cotton or silk for the pocket to keep the seam smooth.

How deep should the pocket be?

A pocket 7 to 9 inches deep is comfortable for most skirts and holds keys, a phone, or a small wallet. If you want to carry more, make it 10 inches deep, but remember that a deeper pocket adds weight and may sag over time. Measure your own pockets in pants you wear to find the depth that feels right.

What if I sew the pocket pieces to the wrong side of the skirt panel?

If you realize the mistake before closing the side seam, use a seam ripper to carefully cut and remove the stitches, then repin and resew the pocket pieces to the correct side. If you catch it after the side seam is closed, you can carefully cut open the seam, reposition the pocket, and restitch. It is tedious but fixable.

Do I need to backstitch at the start and end of each pocket seam?

Yes. Backstitch (or use the machine's reverse function) for about 1/4 inch at the beginning and end of each pocket seam to lock the stitches in place. This prevents the seam from unraveling when you reach into the pocket repeatedly.