The basic method: patch pocket or side seam

A patch pocket is the easiest route — you cut a rectangle of fabric, fold and press the edges, then stitch it flat onto the skirt. A side seam pocket is built into the seam itself as you construct the skirt, so the opening sits at the hip and the pocket bag hangs inside. Patch pockets take 20 to 30 minutes per pocket and work on any finished skirt. Side seam pockets require you to plan ahead before you sew the side seams together, but they look more polished and are invisible from the outside.

If your skirt is already finished and you want pockets now, patch is your only option. If you are making a skirt from a pattern or from scratch, side seam pockets are worth the small extra step. Both methods use a standard sewing machine and thread that matches your skirt fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • Patch pockets are sewn on top of a finished skirt and take 20 to 30 minutes; side seam pockets are built into the seam during construction and are invisible from outside.
  • For a patch pocket, cut a rectangle 5 to 7 inches wide, fold the top edge down a half inch and press it, then fold all four sides in a quarter inch and press before stitching.
  • Position patch pockets 2 to 3 inches down from the waistband and 1 to 2 inches in from the side seam to keep them balanced and functional.
  • For side seam pockets, cut two pocket bag pieces from lining fabric, pin them to the seam allowance before you sew the side seams, and stitch them as part of the seam.
  • Backstitch at the start and end of every seam, and use a 5/8-inch seam allowance to match standard garment construction.

How to make and attach a patch pocket

Start with a rectangle of fabric cut to the size you want the finished pocket to be, plus a half inch on all sides for seam allowance. A useful pocket is 5 to 7 inches wide and 5 to 6 inches tall. Lay the rectangle right side up on your ironing board. Fold the top edge down a half inch toward the wrong side and press it flat with an iron. This creates a finished edge at the opening.

Fold all four sides in a quarter inch toward the wrong side and press. The top edge will now be folded twice — once for the half inch, then again for the quarter inch — which gives it a neat, reinforced finish. Pin the pocket to the skirt where you want it to sit. A standard placement is 2 to 3 inches down from the waistband and 1 to 2 inches in from the side seam. Use a ruler to check that both pockets are level and the same distance from the edges.

Thread your machine with thread that matches the skirt. Set the stitch length to 2.5 millimeters (a standard stitch). Backstitch three or four stitches at the starting corner, then sew around all four sides of the pocket, staying a quarter inch from the edge. Backstitch again at the end. Remove the pins as you go. For extra strength, sew a second line a quarter inch inside the first line, or sew an X from corner to corner inside the pocket opening.

Positioning pockets so they hang straight and stay balanced

Pockets that sit too high look awkward and are hard to reach. Pockets that sit too low can sag or catch on things. The sweet spot for most skirts is 2 to 3 inches below the waistband — roughly where your hand naturally falls when your arm is at rest. Measure down from the waistband with a measuring tape and mark the top of the pocket with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk.

For left and right pockets to look balanced, they need to be the same distance from the side seam. Measure 1 to 2 inches in from the side seam on both sides and mark those points too. If your skirt has a front pleat or a seam down the center front, keep pockets away from those lines — they will look crowded and may interfere with the pleat. On a gathered or A-line skirt, pockets placed too far toward the center front can disappear into the fullness.

Before you pin, lay the skirt flat on a table and step back to look at the placement. Pockets that look right when you are standing over them often look off-center when you are wearing the skirt. A second pair of eyes helps. Once you are satisfied, pin the pocket in place and try the skirt on to confirm the position feels natural.

Building pockets into the side seam during construction

If you are sewing a skirt from a pattern or from pieces you have cut, you can add pockets as part of the side seam. This method hides the pocket entirely — only the opening shows on the outside of the skirt. Cut two pocket bag pieces from lining fabric or a lightweight cotton. Most patterns include pocket bag pieces; if yours does not, cut a rectangle 6 inches wide and 8 inches tall.

Lay one skirt front piece right side up. Place one pocket bag piece on top of it, right sides together, and align the top edge of the pocket bag with the side seam line of the skirt. Pin it in place. Lay the skirt back piece on top, right side down, so the pocket bag is sandwiched between the front and back. Pin the entire side seam, including the pocket bag.

Sew the side seam with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end. The pocket bag will be caught in this seam. After you sew, press the seam allowance open. The pocket bag now hangs inside the skirt, and the opening is part of the side seam. Repeat on the other side with the second pocket bag piece.

Reinforcing pocket openings so they do not tear

Pockets take stress every time you reach into them, so the opening needs to be strong. For a patch pocket, sew a second line of stitching a quarter inch inside the first line around all four sides. This double row is visible and looks intentional — it is a common detail on work clothes and denim. Alternatively, sew an X from corner to corner inside the pocket opening, which distributes the stress across the whole pocket.

For a side seam pocket, the opening is already reinforced by the seam itself, but you can add extra strength by stitching a small triangle or box at the top corners of the opening where the pocket bag meets the seam. Sew a box about a half inch square, or a triangle pointing down into the pocket. This keeps the opening from splitting when you pull on it.

Use thread that matches your skirt so the reinforcement stitches are not obvious. Backstitch at the start and end of every reinforcement line. If you are worried about the pocket tearing later, reinforce it before you wear the skirt — it is much easier to add stitches now than to repair a ripped pocket later.

Choosing pocket bag fabric and lining

For a patch pocket, use the same fabric as the skirt itself. This keeps the pocket from showing at the edges and makes it look like part of the garment. If your skirt is a heavy fabric like wool or canvas, you can use a lighter lining fabric for the pocket bag (the part that hangs inside), but the visible part should match.

For a side seam pocket, the pocket bag is always hidden, so use lining fabric, lightweight cotton, or even an old sheet. Lining fabric is smooth and does not snag on things you put in the pocket. Avoid heavy fabrics — they will add bulk inside the skirt and make the seams thick. If you do not have lining fabric, a lightweight cotton like quilting cotton works well.

Make sure the pocket bag fabric is colorfast — if it bleeds dye, it will stain the inside of your skirt. Test it by wetting a corner and pressing it against a white cloth. If color comes off, wash the fabric first or choose a different material.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is sewing the pocket opening closed by accident. When you stitch around the edge of a patch pocket, leave the top edge open so you can actually use it. Mark the opening with a fabric pencil before you start sewing, and stop stitching a quarter inch before you reach the top corners. Backstitch, cut the thread, and start again on the other side of the opening.

Another mistake is positioning pockets too close to the waistband or too far down. Pockets that sit right at the waistband bunch up when you sit, and pockets that sit too low look unbalanced. Measure and mark before you pin, and try the skirt on to check the placement.

Uneven pockets are also common. Use a measuring tape to make sure both pockets are the same distance from the waistband and the same distance from the side seam. A level or a ruler helps. If one pocket ends up higher or lower than the other, it will be obvious every time you wear the skirt.

Finally, do not skip the pressing step. Folding the edges of a patch pocket and pressing them flat makes the pocket look neat and professional. Pressing also helps the fabric hold its shape while you sew, so the stitches go in straight.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to a skirt that is already finished and hemmed?

Yes. Patch pockets are the only option for a finished skirt, and they work on any fabric. Cut the pocket pieces, fold and press the edges, pin them to the skirt, and sew them on. You do not need to take the skirt apart or remove the hem.

What if I sew the pocket opening closed by accident?

Use a seam ripper to carefully cut the stitches along the top edge of the pocket, then pull the thread out. Sew the opening closed again, this time leaving a gap at the top. If the fabric is damaged, you can sew a small patch of matching fabric over the area and then sew the pocket opening closed properly.

How deep should the pocket bag be?

A pocket bag that is 6 to 8 inches deep is deep enough to hold keys, a phone, or a small wallet without the items falling out the bottom. If you make it too shallow, things will stick out. If you make it too deep, it will bunch up inside the skirt and look bulky.

Do I need special thread for sewing pockets?

No. Use the same thread you used to sew the skirt. Match the color to the skirt fabric so the stitches are not obvious. All-purpose polyester thread works for most fabrics.

Can I add pockets to a stretchy or knit skirt?

Yes, but use a ballpoint needle and stretch thread or a narrow zigzag stitch so the seams do not break when the fabric stretches. Test on a scrap of the same fabric first. Patch pockets work better on knits than side seam pockets, because the seams of a knit skirt are already under stress.