A shirt pocket is sewn in three stages: prepare the fabric, attach it to the shirt, and finish the edges
A shirt pocket starts as a flat rectangle of fabric. You fold and press the top edge down, sew it closed, then pin the pocket to the shirt front and stitch around three sides. The fourth side—the top—stays open so you can reach inside. The whole job takes about 20 minutes once you have the pocket piece cut and the shirt body ready.
The pocket itself is usually made from the same fabric as the shirt, or from a contrasting fabric if you want it to stand out. Most casual shirts use a straightforward rectangular pocket about 5 to 6 inches wide and 5 inches tall, though you can adjust the size to match your pattern or preference.
Key Takeaways
- Cut your pocket piece 1 inch wider and 1.5 inches taller than the finished pocket size to account for seam allowance and the folded top edge.
- Fold the top edge of the pocket down 0.5 inches, press it flat with an iron, then fold it down again another 0.5 inches and press to create a finished edge.
- Pin the pocket to the shirt front with the folded edge at the top, then sew around the bottom and two sides using a straight stitch 0.25 inches from the edge.
- Reinforce the top corners of the pocket with a small box or triangle stitch to prevent the pocket from tearing open during wear.
Cut the pocket piece to the right size
Start by deciding how wide and tall you want the finished pocket to be. A standard shirt pocket is about 5 to 6 inches wide and 5 inches tall, but you can make it smaller or larger depending on the shirt style and your preference.
Add seam allowance to those measurements. Cut the pocket piece 1 inch wider (0.5 inches on each side) and 1.5 inches taller than the finished size. So if you want a 5-inch-wide by 5-inch-tall pocket, cut a piece that is 6 inches wide by 6.5 inches tall. This extra fabric becomes the seam allowance and the folded top edge.
Use a ruler and fabric marker or chalk to mark the cutting lines on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut along the lines with sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. Cut straight edges—a crooked pocket will look unfinished even if the stitching is neat.
Fold and press the top edge of the pocket
The top edge of the pocket needs to be finished so it does not fray and looks polished. Fold the top edge down 0.5 inches toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press it flat with a hot iron. This crease holds the fold in place while you work.
Fold the same edge down another 0.5 inches and press again. Now the raw edge is hidden inside the fold, and you have a neat finished edge at the top of the pocket. This double fold is called a hem, and it is the standard way to finish a pocket opening.
If you want extra durability, you can sew along the inner fold with a straight stitch before you attach the pocket to the shirt. This is optional but recommended for work shirts or items that will get heavy use. Use thread that matches the pocket fabric and sew 0.25 inches from the fold.
Pin the pocket to the shirt front
Lay the shirt body flat on your work surface with the front facing up. Decide where you want the pocket—most shirt pockets sit about 3 to 4 inches down from the shoulder seam and about 2 to 3 inches in from the center front. Mark the position lightly with a fabric marker if it helps you stay straight.
Place the pocket on the shirt with the folded edge at the top and the right side of the pocket facing the right side of the shirt. Pin along all four edges, starting at the top corners. Use enough pins to keep the pocket from shifting—one every 1 to 2 inches is typical. Make sure the pocket sits straight and the corners are square.
Step back and look at the placement before you sew. A crooked pocket is hard to fix after stitching, so take a moment to adjust if needed.
Sew the pocket to the shirt
Thread your machine with thread that matches the shirt fabric. Set the stitch length to a standard straight stitch, about 2.5 millimeters. Start sewing at the top left corner of the pocket, about 0.25 inches from the edge.
Sew down the left side of the pocket, across the bottom, and up the right side. Stop at the top right corner—do not sew across the top edge, because that is the opening you need to reach into. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the stitches in place.
Remove the pins as you sew, or before you start if you prefer. Sew slowly and keep the line straight. If your machine has a seam guide, use it to stay 0.25 inches from the edge consistently.
Reinforce the top corners to prevent tearing
The top corners of the pocket take the most stress when you reach in and out, so they need extra reinforcement. This is called a box stitch or triangle stitch, and it is a small pattern of stitching that locks the corner in place.
To sew a box stitch, start at the top left corner where the pocket meets the shirt. Sew a small square about 0.5 inches on each side, then sew an X through the middle of the square. Repeat at the top right corner. This takes only a minute and makes the pocket much more durable.
Alternatively, sew a small triangle at each top corner by stitching from the top of the pocket down to the corner and back up. Both methods work equally well—choose whichever feels easier to you.
Press the finished pocket and check the seams
Once the stitching is complete, press the pocket with a hot iron to flatten the seams and give it a finished look. Press from the wrong side of the shirt first, then from the right side. This helps the pocket sit flat against the shirt and makes the stitching less visible.
Check that all the seams are find and the stitching is straight. If you see any loose threads, trim them with scissors. If a seam has skipped stitches or looks weak, you can sew over it again—just follow the same line and backstitch at the start and end.
The pocket is now ready to use. It will soften and look more natural after a few washes, and the reinforced corners will hold up to regular wear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a pocket on a finished shirt?
Yes. Lay the shirt flat, mark the pocket position, and follow the same steps. The only difference is that you are working on a complete garment instead of a flat piece. Take care not to catch the back layer of fabric when you sew—pin carefully and sew slowly to keep the needle on the front layer only.
What if my pocket comes out crooked?
If the pocket is slightly off-center but the stitching is neat, it is usually fine to leave it—many handmade shirts have character in small imperfections. If it is very crooked or the stitching is loose, you can carefully cut the stitches with a seam ripper, remove the pocket, and sew it on again in the correct position.
Do I need to use a pattern for pocket size?
No. Most shirt patterns include a pocket piece, but you can make your own by deciding on a finished size and adding seam allowance. A 5-by-5-inch pocket works on most casual shirts. Measure a pocket you like wearing and use that as a guide.
Should the pocket fabric match the shirt?
Matching fabric is traditional and looks neat, but contrasting fabric is also common and can add visual interest. If you use a different fabric, make sure it is the same weight as the shirt so the pocket does not pucker or sag.
How do I keep the pocket opening from fraying?
The double-fold hem at the top edge prevents fraying. If you want extra insurance, you can explore a thin line of fray-check liquid along the inside of the fold before you sew it down, though this is usually not necessary on a well-finished hem.