The three places to take in a shirt for a better fit
The easiest way to make a shirt tighter is to take in the side seams — the vertical seams that run from your armpit to your hem. This works well if the shirt is too loose overall but fits you in the shoulders and length. You can also take in the back seam (the seam running down the center of the back) if the shirt is baggy across the shoulders and back. For a fitted look, many people combine both: narrowing the sides and taking in the back seam at the same time.
A third option is to take in the shoulder seams themselves, but this is the hardest alteration and usually requires a sewing machine and some experience. Most people start with the side seams because they are the most forgiving and produce the most noticeable change.
Key Takeaways
- Side seams are the easiest place to take in a shirt and work best when the shirt is loose overall but fits in the shoulders and length.
- You can take in between 1/2 inch and 1 inch per side seam, depending on how much tighter you want the shirt to be.
- Trying on the shirt and pinning the new seam before you cut or sew prevents mistakes that are hard to undo.
- A sewing machine makes the work faster and stronger, but you can hand-sew side seams with a needle and thread if you do not have one.
- Taking in shoulder seams requires removing the sleeves first and is best left to someone with sewing experience.
How to measure and mark the side seams
Put the shirt on inside-out and have someone help you, or stand in front of a mirror. Pinch the fabric at the side seam until the shirt fits the way you want it. The amount you pinch on each side is the amount you will sew in — if you pinch 1/2 inch, you will sew a new seam 1/2 inch inward from the old one.
Use a fabric pen or tailor's chalk to mark a line along the pinch on both sides of the shirt. Mark from the armpit all the way down to the hem. Make sure the line is straight and parallel to the old seam. Try the shirt on again while it is still inside-out to confirm the fit looks right. If it does not, adjust the pins and re-mark.
Once you are happy with the fit, take the shirt off and lay it flat on a table. Use a ruler or measuring tape to double-check that both side seams are the same distance from the old seam — usually 1/2 inch to 1 inch is a good starting point. If one side is different from the other, your shirt will hang crooked.
Sewing the new side seams by machine
Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches the shirt color. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2 to 2.5 millimeters — this is a standard setting on most machines. Start at the armpit and sew along the line you marked, keeping the presser foot parallel to the marked line so your stitches stay straight.
Sew slowly and stop every few inches to check that you are following the line. When you reach the hem, backstitch (sew backward) a few stitches to lock the thread in place, then cut the thread. Repeat on the other side seam. Once both seams are sewn, try the shirt on to make sure it fits. If it is too tight or too loose, you can pick out the stitches and try again — the fabric will not be damaged.
After you confirm the fit, trim the old seam allowance down to about 1/4 inch from your new seam. This reduces bulk and keeps the shirt from looking lumpy. You can finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch on your machine, or straightforward leave it as is if the fabric does not fray much.
Hand-sewing the side seams if you do not have a machine
Hand-sewing takes longer but works just as well for side seams. Thread a needle with thread that matches the shirt, and tie a knot at the end. Starting at the armpit on the inside of the shirt, push the needle through both layers of fabric right at the marked line.
Use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand-sewing stitch for seams. Bring the needle up through the fabric about 1/8 inch ahead of where you just came out, then push it back down through the same hole you just came out of. Repeat this motion all the way down the side seam. Keep your stitches small and even — about 1/8 inch apart — so the seam is strong.
When you reach the hem, tie a knot on the inside of the shirt and trim the thread. Try the shirt on to check the fit before you trim the old seam allowance. Hand-sewn seams are just as durable as machine-sewn ones if you use a backstitch and keep your stitches close together.
Taking in the back seam for a more fitted look
The back seam runs vertically down the center of the back. Taking it in makes the shirt narrower across the shoulders and back. Put the shirt on inside-out and pinch the back seam until the fit looks right. Mark a line with fabric pen or chalk, just as you did with the side seams.
The back seam is trickier than side seams because it runs through the middle of the shirt and affects how the sleeves hang. Take in no more than 1/2 inch total (1/4 inch on each side of the seam) unless you have done this before. Sew the new seam the same way you did the side seams — by machine or by hand — and try the shirt on inside-out to check the fit before you trim the old seam.
Why shoulder seams are harder to alter
The shoulder seams connect the front and back of the shirt to the sleeves. Taking them in requires removing the sleeves first, which means cutting the stitches that hold them in place. Once the sleeves are off, you can sew a new shoulder seam closer to the neck, but then you have to reattach the sleeves in the right position — a step that is straightforward to get wrong.
If your shirt is too loose in the shoulders, it is usually better to take in the back seam and side seams instead. This gives you a tighter fit without the complexity of removing and reattaching sleeves. If the shoulders are truly too wide and the back seam will not fix it, consider taking the shirt to a tailor who has experience with shoulder alterations.
Finishing touches and what to do if something goes wrong
After you sew the new seams, try the shirt on right-side-out and move your arms around to make sure you can still move comfortably. The shirt should feel snug but not tight enough to restrict your movement. If the fit is not quite right, you can pick out the stitches with a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade) and try again — the fabric will not be damaged as long as you are careful.
If you accidentally sewed too close to the old seam and there is not enough fabric left to trim, you can cover the raw edge with bias tape (a thin strip of fabric folded in half) or a zigzag stitch. If you sewed too far from the old seam and the shirt is not tight enough, pick out the stitches and sew again closer to the edge.
Once you are happy with the fit, wash and dry the shirt to see how it looks after a full cycle. Fabric can shrink slightly, especially cotton, so a shirt that fits perfectly before washing may be a tiny bit tighter after. This is usually not a problem, but it is worth knowing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I take in a shirt that is too tight in the shoulders?
Not easily. If the shoulders are too tight, the problem is usually that the shirt is the wrong size overall. Taking in the side seams will not help because the issue is at the top of the shirt, not the sides. Your best option is to find a shirt that fits better in the shoulders, or take it to a tailor who can let out the shoulder seams — the opposite of taking them in.
How much can I take in before the shirt looks wrong?
Most people can take in 1/2 inch to 1 inch per side seam without the shirt looking odd. If you take in more than that, the seams may curve in a way that looks unnatural. Start small — take in 1/2 inch and see how it looks — and you can always take in more later if you want it tighter.
What if the shirt has a pattern or stripes?
Patterns and stripes can make a crooked seam obvious. Take extra care to keep your new seam parallel to the old one, and make sure both side seams are exactly the same distance from the old seam. If the pattern is very bold, consider taking the shirt to a tailor who has experience matching patterns during alterations.
Do I have to remove the old seam after I sew the new one?
No, but it is a good idea. The old seam adds bulk and can make the shirt look lumpy. Trim it down to about 1/4 inch from your new seam with scissors or a seam ripper. This takes only a few minutes and makes a big difference in how the finished shirt looks.
Can I take in a shirt made of stretchy fabric like spandex or jersey?
Yes, but stretchy fabrics are trickier because they can curl at the edges and are harder to mark accurately. Use a ballpoint needle on your sewing machine (not a regular needle) to avoid snagging the fabric. Hand-sewing stretchy fabric is very difficult, so a machine is strongly recommended. If you are not comfortable working with stretch fabric, a tailor is your best option.