The most common ways to decrease stitches

A decrease in knitting removes one or more stitches from your needle, narrowing your fabric. The two basic methods are knit two together (K2tog) and slip, slip, knit (SSK). Both reduce your stitch count by one in a single row. K2tog leans the decrease to the right; SSK leans it to the left. Most patterns call for one or the other depending on where the decrease sits and which direction looks better visually.

Beyond these two, you have purl two together (P2tog) for decreases on the purl side, and double decreases like slip, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over (SK2P) when you need to remove two stitches at once. The method you choose affects how your edges look and how your shaping sits on the finished piece.

Most patterns tell you which decrease to use and where. If a pattern does not specify, K2tog and SSK are safe defaults for most situations. The key is using them consistently so your decreases form a neat line rather than looking scattered or uneven.

Key Takeaways

  • K2tog (knit two together) is the quickest decrease and leans to the right; SSK (slip, slip, knit) leans to the left and is often used on the opposite side of a decrease line for symmetry.
  • P2tog works the same way as K2tog but on purl rows, letting you decrease on the wrong side of your fabric.
  • Double decreases like SK2P remove two stitches at once and are common in lace patterns and steep shaping.
  • Placing decreases one or two stitches in from the edge creates a visible decrease line that frames your shaping neatly.
  • Practicing decreases on a swatch before starting a project helps you see how they look and builds muscle memory for consistent tension.

How to knit two together (K2tog)

K2tog is the fastest and most straightforward decrease. Insert your right needle through two stitches on your left needle from left to right, as if you were about to knit them separately. Wrap your yarn and pull it through both stitches at once. You now have one stitch on your right needle instead of two.

This decrease naturally leans to the right. If you are working a raglan or a V-neck where you want the decreases to slant inward toward the center, K2tog on the right side of the neckline and SSK on the left side creates a balanced, professional look. K2tog is also the decrease most knitters learn first because the motion is identical to a regular knit stitch—you are just catching two loops instead of one.

How to slip, slip, knit (SSK)

SSK creates a decrease that leans to the left. Slip one stitch knitwise (as if to knit), then slip a second stitch knitwise. Insert your left needle through both slipped stitches from left to right and knit them together. You now have one stitch on your right needle.

The slipping step takes a moment longer than K2tog, but the result is a neat, left-leaning decrease. Many knitters use SSK on the left edge of a V-neck or the left side of a raglan to mirror K2tog on the right side. The two decreases together create a symmetrical shaping line that looks intentional and polished.

Some knitters find SSK awkward at first because you are working with slipped stitches. If your SSK looks loose or uneven, try tightening the yarn slightly on the stitch after you complete the decrease. This tightens the base of the decrease and makes it sit flush with the rest of your fabric.

Purl two together and decreasing on the wrong side

If your pattern calls for decreases on a purl row (the wrong side of stockinette), use P2tog. Insert your right needle through two stitches on your left needle from right to left, as if to purl, wrap your yarn, and pull through both stitches. This decrease leans to the right on the purl side, which means it leans to the left when you look at the knit side of your fabric.

You can also work SSK on the purl side by slipping two stitches purlwise, inserting your left needle, and purling them together. This creates a left-leaning decrease on the purl side (right-leaning on the knit side). Many patterns use purl-side decreases to hide the shaping on the inside of a garment or to create a specific visual effect on the outside.

Double decreases and removing two stitches at once

A double decrease removes two stitches in one row. The most common is SK2P (slip one, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over). Slip one stitch knitwise, knit the next two stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over the K2tog. You have removed two stitches and gone from three stitches to one.

SK2P centers the decrease—the middle stitch sits on top and the two outer stitches disappear beneath it. This is the decrease you see in lace patterns and in steep shaping like the crown of a hat. Other double decreases exist, like K3tog (knit three together) and SSK2P, but SK2P is the most common and the easiest to work.

Double decreases work fast when you need to narrow your fabric quickly. A hat crown that would take many rows with single decreases can be shaped in half the rows using SK2P. The trade-off is that double decreases create a more visible line, so they are usually placed where you want that line to show—like radiating from the center of a hat.

Placing decreases to create neat shaping lines

Where you position your decreases matters as much as which decrease you use. Decreases placed at the very edge of your fabric can look loose or uneven. Instead, work one or two stitches in from the edge, then place your decrease. This creates a visible decrease line that frames your shaping and looks intentional.

On a V-neck, for example, you might knit two stitches, then K2tog, work to the last three stitches, SSK, then knit two. The two edge stitches stay intact, and the decrease sits one stitch in. This creates a clean selvage edge and a neat decrease line that runs down the center of your shaping.

Raglan shaping often uses the same principle: decreases sit one or two stitches in from the armhole edge on both sides of the front and back pieces. The result is four neat decrease lines that radiate from the neckline. Practicing this placement on a swatch before you start a project helps you see the effect and builds confidence.

Practicing decreases and checking your tension

Decreases are easier to practice than increases because they do not require yarn overs or picking up stitches. Cast on 20 stitches and knit a few rows in stockinette. On the next row, K2tog at the beginning, knit to the last two stitches, then K2tog. Repeat this for several rows and watch how your fabric narrows and how the decrease line forms.

Pay attention to your tension as you work the decrease. Many knitters pull the yarn too tight on the stitch after a decrease, which can make that stitch look pinched. The stitch after your decrease should be the same size as the stitches around it. If your decreases look uneven or bunched, loosen your tension slightly on the row after the decrease.

Once K2tog feels natural, practice SSK the same way. Work a few rows with SSK at the beginning and end of each row and compare the result to your K2tog swatch. You will see the difference in lean and develop a feel for when each one is the right choice. This muscle memory carries over to every project you knit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between K2tog and SSK?

K2tog leans to the right; SSK leans to the left. Both remove one stitch. K2tog is faster because the motion is the same as a regular knit stitch. SSK requires slipping two stitches first, which takes a moment longer but creates a neater left-leaning decrease. Most patterns use both on opposite sides of a shaping line for symmetry.

Can I use K2tog instead of SSK if I do not like SSK?

Yes, though the result will look different. Using K2tog on both sides of a V-neck or raglan will make one side lean right and the other lean left, which looks unbalanced. If SSK feels awkward, practice it on a swatch until it becomes automatic. Most knitters find it easier after a few attempts.

What does SK2P mean and when do I use it?

SK2P (slip one, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over) is a double decrease that removes two stitches at once. It centers the decrease, with the middle stitch on top. Use it in lace patterns, hat crowns, and steep shaping where you need to narrow quickly. It creates a visible line, so place it where you want that line to show.

Why do my decreases look loose or uneven?

Loose decreases usually mean your tension is too tight on the stitch after the decrease, or too loose on the decrease itself. Practice working the decrease and the following stitch at the same tension as the rest of your row. If SSK looks particularly loose, try tightening the yarn slightly as you pull it through the two slipped stitches.

Should I always place decreases one stitch in from the edge?

Not always, but it is the standard for most shaping. One or two stitches in creates a neat selvage edge and a visible decrease line. Some patterns call for decreases at the very edge for a different look. Follow your pattern's instructions; if it does not specify, one stitch in is the safe choice.